LED candle bulbs

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What with elec prices rising;

Can you get decent LED candle bulbs ?

Size 67mm high, 35mm dia.

All the ones I seam to find are 98mm+ high

Ideally would like frosted, warm white 40W replacement. BC

Thanks
 
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I struggled to find decent LED candles to replace the ones in the lounge shandy. I tried the ones from the supermarkets - horrid colour & a poor dimming curve. In the end I used the dimmable LED filament candle from Philips. I'm impressed with the colour of the light & its the only one I could find that dims all the way down to off (using a proper LED dimmer). They aren't cheap (around £7 each) but, IMHO, they are worth it.
 
What with elec prices rising;

Can you get decent LED candle bulbs ?

Size 67mm high, 35mm dia.

All the ones I seam to find are 98mm+ high

Ideally would like frosted, warm white 40W replacement. BC

Thanks
I have yet to find one. I, unfortunately have 12 (I know) candle/small globe lamps in my living room. But even at £4ish a lamp the payback time on them is so long I'm just not bothering.

Had a quick look at belllighting.co.uk and their closest to your size requirements is a round ball, rather than a candle. That's 71mmx45mm
 
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First advert I looked at was 105 x 37 mm and since that seems like a normal candle bulb and a standard globe bulb is around 75.5 x 45 mm it seems unlikely you will find a candle bulb of those dimensions. In the main LED bulbs are E14 there are some BA22d made, but not as easy to find.

When I came to change to so called energy saving bulbs I realised I was not going to get a like for like equivalent.
ae235
this is the typical LED candle bulb, I selected BA22d as that's what you want, the first thing you will note is no light shines towards the base, same with E14 all the light is sidewards or up, with the base at the bottom they work well reflecting the light off the ceiling, turn the base to top and they do not do nearly as well.

You can get small wattage up to around 3 watt reasonable cheap jump to 6 watt and the cost goes up, so for me step one was change the three lamp fitting to a 5 lamp fitting, so I can use smaller wattage bulbs and still get the light output. Size does matter, the bigger the surface area of the bulb the more useful light it gives off.

But reason to swap to LED is not electric price, using so called energy saving bulbs out side saves energy, in side it means the central heating needs to produce more heat to compensate for heat not coming from bulbs, since we use lights at night when we tend not to be as active the heat from the lights works well, so a house set at say 18°C in the day is at 18°C but at night the air is still 18°C but we have inferred heat for lights boosting the heat into the body so we still feel warm. Without the tungsten lamp we need the room to be a 20°C to get 20°C just at night only in occupied rooms means eTRV's in every room with a PIR or smart light switch detecting if occupied so it can boost the temperature, even then the lag between the target heat changing and room hitting the target means the tungsten bulbs still does a better job.

So to reduce maintenance the LED is great, to save money on heating bills better with tungsten. Yes the lighting bill may go down, but heating bill will likely go up by a greater amount than the lighting bill goes down. Since it will vary house to house, ventilation makes the tungsten better a sealed stuffy house favours LED, there can be no 100% answer to which costs the most to run. However it is very possible in real terms tungsten bulbs save more energy than LED.

Even the curtains matter and type of glass, we can't destroy energy, so light energy is converted into heat, but where it converts it to heat is what matters, loads of windows with no curtains all heat from light bulbs is lost, just fit heavy curtains and all that energy is retained in the house. Remember inferred will pass through glass, double glazing does not help.

I have moved to all LED but not to save energy, simply so I am not changing bulbs every week.
 
What a load of tosh. Just because the eco-maniacs and green quangos talk crap, doesn't mean you have to join in.
 
67mm is tight. Is 70mm OK? I've seen short bulbs almost like a golfball, slightly fatter than a candle.

Fridge bulbs are less than 67mm :) Usually small screw base though and maybe not quite 40W.
 
Thanks for the replies. It's to go on a shade and the large candle are too big.

I only really need 2 and I'm getting board changing incandescents.
So if I could find something the right size and colour for £5 each it would be worth it I think

Doesn't need to be dimmable
 
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First advert I looked at was 105 x 37 mm and since that seems like a normal candle bulb and a standard globe bulb is around 75.5 x 45 mm it seems unlikely you will find a candle bulb of those dimensions. In the main LED bulbs are E14 there are some BA22d made, but not as easy to find.

When I came to change to so called energy saving bulbs I realised I was not going to get a like for like equivalent.
ae235
this is the typical LED candle bulb, I selected BA22d as that's what you want, the first thing you will note is no light shines towards the base, same with E14 all the light is sidewards or up, with the base at the bottom they work well reflecting the light off the ceiling, turn the base to top and they do not do nearly as well.

You can get small wattage up to around 3 watt reasonable cheap jump to 6 watt and the cost goes up, so for me step one was change the three lamp fitting to a 5 lamp fitting, so I can use smaller wattage bulbs and still get the light output. Size does matter, the bigger the surface area of the bulb the more useful light it gives off.

But reason to swap to LED is not electric price, using so called energy saving bulbs out side saves energy, in side it means the central heating needs to produce more heat to compensate for heat not coming from bulbs, since we use lights at night when we tend not to be as active the heat from the lights works well, so a house set at say 18°C in the day is at 18°C but at night the air is still 18°C but we have inferred heat for lights boosting the heat into the body so we still feel warm. Without the tungsten lamp we need the room to be a 20°C to get 20°C just at night only in occupied rooms means eTRV's in every room with a PIR or smart light switch detecting if occupied so it can boost the temperature, even then the lag between the target heat changing and room hitting the target means the tungsten bulbs still does a better job.

So to reduce maintenance the LED is great, to save money on heating bills better with tungsten. Yes the lighting bill may go down, but heating bill will likely go up by a greater amount than the lighting bill goes down. Since it will vary house to house, ventilation makes the tungsten better a sealed stuffy house favours LED, there can be no 100% answer to which costs the most to run. However it is very possible in real terms tungsten bulbs save more energy than LED.

Even the curtains matter and type of glass, we can't destroy energy, so light energy is converted into heat, but where it converts it to heat is what matters, loads of windows with no curtains all heat from light bulbs is lost, just fit heavy curtains and all that energy is retained in the house. Remember inferred will pass through glass, double glazing does not help.

I have moved to all LED but not to save energy, simply so I am not changing bulbs every week.

Tungsten bulbs may contribute to your heating in winter but electricity costs three times as much as gas so not a good idea. In summer it would be complete madness, especially if you need to increase the air con to get rid of the heat.
 
Tungsten bulbs may contribute to your heating in winter but electricity costs three times as much as gas so not a good idea. In summer it would be complete madness, especially if you need to increase the air con to get rid of the heat.
Considering the life of a tungsten bulb there is no reason why in Summer they could not be replaced with LED. Although gas is cheaper than electric the tungsten lamp gives off heat as inferred, and this is ideal for the evening boost to heating, it does not directly heat the air, so is not lost by air changes, it is instant, no warm up or cool down times, it is only used when the room is occupied.

To make gas central heating emulate the inferred heat from a light bulb is only possible by using a boiler with a Sterling engine built in and using this to feed an electric inferred heater. Failing this you need PIR's and eTRV's interlinked likely using IFTTT so that rooms when used have a heat boost, in real terms the time delay for heating and cooling means it not practicable to use gas water heating this way, it would need hot air, likely the closest you can get is the Myson heaters where the fan controls the output these can respond quickly. However there are also a lot of draw backs with the Myson, one is noise.

Inferred has a great advantage over air heating, however it also has a control problem, if your not controlling your heating using air temperature it is very hard to get the comfort spot on, i.e. using just enough heat, no more and no less. However using a combination of air and inferred works well. Using tungsten light bulbs for the inferred part of the heating is simple and effective. Ideal would be to install inferred heaters and LED lights with a thermostat so inferred does not come on in the summer, but is it that hard just to swap bulbs summer and winter.

Personally I don't want the hassle of changing bulbs, I simply want the light to work every time I switch it on, I have spent out on eTRV's and they do not work as well as tungsten bulbs, but I have got them now so LED's are staying. However the LED is not saving me what I spent out on eTRV's and never will. So money wise the LED is a non starter, hassle wise however they are great, they simply work and to date not had a single mains powered LED fail. I would recommend LED lighting, but not to save money.
 
Well I found my answer today. :)

After being dragged into B&M bargins I found some Energizer candles 5.6W 2700K

When put next to a 40W I can hardly tell the difference! I am amazed. In fact the LED looks brighter.

Will have to see what they look like at night.

Now if only I could find some decent 20-30W CFL's to truly replace a 150W bulb!
 
I've got 12x Philips Dimtone candle lamps in the lounge. Very good lamps - never had any issues

Philips do a remote phosphor LED lamp which is basically as bright as a 100W to 150W lamp
 
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replace a 150W bulb!
Looking at around 2000 lumen, looking at R7s lamps yes you can get 30W LED replacements with 2500 lumen output however I would not expect to find a bulb that size, as you would not under normal circumstances find a tungsten bulb over 100W in fact even 100W had to find more like 60W.

However I have a 70W metal halide outside lamp 5800 lumen which makes most outside lamps in the area look dim. But not seen much under 70W and the lamps need control gear, my spare bulb a Son my wife killed putting in a standard lamp holder the fuse really went with a bang. Lamps of this size are mainly used either outside or with low or high bay lighting, they are not suitable for domestic.

Not sure if one would call non mercury discharge lamps CFL or not, but that is really what they are. But you can't simply screw them in like most of the domestic lamps.

25W LED
e27-25w-led-corn-lamp.jpg
2250 lumen are made, this one £17 which I think is expensive so what I did was fit a 5 lamp fitting, 3W at 180 lumen each OK in mothers house, at my house with larger room 5W at 400 lumen each so there is your 2000 lumen I think the problem is you need surface area to use LED's and a standard bulb is not physically big enough to radiate that amount of light hence 5 x 5W rather than one 25W is also means they are cheaper, got mine from Home Bargains the point is if one blows easy to get a replacement.
 

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