LED down light.

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as long as you have space in the ceiling void to accommodate the depth of the fitting ,no timber joists in the way, and a hole saw to cut a nice neat hole you should be fine.
 
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check the spec,think you will find that one is Mains voltage 230/240 volts AC
 
How did you plan to connect it, it is highly unlikely the connection block on the downlight is sufficient to accomadate the amount of wires in the pendant.
A Hagar J804 junction box may help
 
The pendant will be mounted on a joist or a wooden noggin. So it will not be possible to have the downlight in the same place as the pendant.

You'll need to re-route/extend the existing cables to a location suitable for the downlight.

Or you could forget this plan, and fit a light suitable for surface fitting.
 
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as long as you have space in the ceiling void to accommodate the depth of the fitting ,no timber joists in the way, and a hole saw to cut a nice neat hole you should be fine.
Well, only if these aren't flats and there isn't another flat above, or if there isn't a loft space above, or a flat roof above, or if in your dictionary "fine" means "in contravention of multiple Building Regulations".

Basically, Terry, you have nowhere near enough information to say what you did.
 
Will it be a straight swap?
Likely not, they very rarely are, it is different type of fitting. You will need the correct depth for the fitting, this will include a ventilation gap above and around it. The product depth is spec at 110mm, you will likely need another 25mm-50mm above that.
There is always the likelihood of joists and noggins obstructing the area, then there is also other services to consider such as pipework, electrical and data cables.
If the void is insulated, that can also be an issue, as the fittings require ventilation and to do this, you will compromise any heat loss or soundproofing qualities.

Then there is also the configuration of the existing cables and whether there is enough slack in the cable to complete a satisfactory install.

There are a number of regulation regarding downlights that need to be accomplished, also there are regulations on cable selection, jointing and exposed cable insulation that often gets ignored.
Do I need anything else?
Test equipment is always an essential when doing electrical work.
You will need a holesaw(87mm) and arbour or a padsaw may do it, you may have to lift the flooring above the location, you may need some extra cabling, joint boxes, possible maintenance free ones!
I assume you have adequate insulated tools and I would suggest dust mask and safety specs.
I've changed loads of lights fittings in the past, but always like for like.
A venture into the great unknown then, it is impossible to say what obstruction and difficulties you may come across, I have tried to make you aware of the situations I have found myself in. But there is one other thing that may just prevent you from installing this fitting. Is there an CPC/earth existing in your lighting system, one that that is continuous and gives a fault path to the origins of the earthing arrangement???? This fitting will likely require that.

Do I need a transformer of any type?

No

The specification is here
http://www.screwfix.com/p/enlite-fi...rm=58258#product_additional_details_container
 
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I am intrigued by the GX53 range of lamps, came across them by accident, the spec seems good, being 75 mm diameter rather than 50 mm for the MR16 and not needing a hole in the ceiling although that depends on the holder used, they seem to be on paper a better option. Specially as many MR16 replacements are not 16/8" across the lamp but most of the area is cooling fins.

I don't know if there are any more new lamps designed to use LED with replaceable bulbs, but I am sure there are. I have found even with the quartz lamps the MR16 be it a GU10 or G5.3 230 volt or 12 were not good at general lighting, and with LED lamps in them even worse, mainly as the area the light comes from is too small, to work the light needs reflecting off a wall, the 2D lamps were good and look reasonable for a kitchen, but look a little too utility in other rooms, the 2D was out when I went to Falklands in 1984 so quite an old lamp originally using fluorescent lamps and also had 12 volt and 24 volt versions today there are LED versions, being flush to ceiling they have many advantages over lamps dangling on cords but at 330 mm diameter quite a large lamp.

There are quite a few LED lamps where you can't change the bulb, it is all integral, look good, but I prefer to be able to swap the bulb, the GX53 does seem to have a range of bulbs most around the 4W to 5W bit expensive likely as not caught on yet, but to date only seen pictures, never actually seen the lamp.
 
Hi,

Sorry for the late reply, I work away and don't get much time to go on the internet.

First, thanks for all the responses, you are making me think this isn't going to be as straight forward as I thought.

Above the ceiling is the loft, plenty of space up there, the room is tiny, 1m x 2m. After reading the comments, am I right in thinking I can't insulate the ceiling when these lights are fitted?

I ended up buying this type of light instead for the ease of the loop in/loop out design and the bulb can be replaced when if brakes.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-fixed-round-fire-rated-downlight-brushed-steel-220-240v/3559p


What size wire do I use to loop in to the other light 0.75mm or 1mm 3core flex?

It was mentioned above there is likely to me more wires in the pendent then I require for the down lights, normally if I remember correctly, I disconnect 3 wires and re-connect 3 wire. How many wires can I expect in this pendent?

I expect to have to extend the wire from the pendent to reach the down light, I was going to ask the question but I see someone has already recommended a junction box, unfortunately I can't find them on the screwfix website. Could anyone recommend a maintenance free junction box from screw fix.

Thanks for the help and advice so far.
 
am I right in thinking I can't insulate the ceiling when these lights are fitted?
You can, and you must, provided you keep it away from the lights by the amount the manufacturer specifies.



I ended up buying this type of light instead for the ease of the loop in/loop out design
It doesn't have a loop terminal - only L/N/E.


What size wire do I use to loop in to the other light 0.75mm or 1mm 3core flex?
1 or 1.5mm², flex or twin&earth.


It was mentioned above there is likely to me more wires in the pendent then I require for the down lights, normally if I remember correctly, I disconnect 3 wires and re-connect 3 wire. How many wires can I expect in this pendent?
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"Wires" as in cables? Not ^ the flex down to the bulb holder there could be 3 just for the light, and 4 if there's a fan.

As in individual conductors? Not counting the 2 or 3 down to the bulb holder there could be 9 just for the light and 13 if there's a fan.

Do not make the mistake of thinking that all the blacks/blues are neutral - keep track of any being used as the switched live.


I expect to have to extend the wire from the pendent to reach the down light, I was going to ask the question but I see someone has already recommended a junction box, unfortunately I can't find them on the screwfix website. Could anyone recommend a maintenance free junction box from screw fix.
From Screwfix, this: http://www.screwfix.com/p/debox-2sl-screwless-in-line-junction-box/9858r

No idea what they are like - people here might be able to comment on that make vs the Ashley J804
 
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I've not used the Debox thingy from Screwfix, but looking at it, the connections at the supply end (nearest you in the picture) would appear to be only suitable for solid conductors, not stranded.. Stranded or solid supported on the other side.

Ashley 804 can take any mix of solid or stranded conductors in any combination.
 
Thank you for the responses, very helpful and some good reading in the links provided.
 

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