Loft Hatch - Seal - Pics included

[SirLancelot]

Hi all,

Please look at the pics - and suggest how you might tackle this cowboy job.

Guy that fitted new loft ladder - left Gaps around the hatch.

Hole at ceiling level - 69cm x 68cm (ish).

Dust getting in, heat being lost and drafts getting through.

Our two year old suffers from asthma.

 

[^woody^]

Draught strips on those plant-on strips around the frame come to mind

 

[foxhole]

Foam insulation around door and/or add trim [from in loft] to edge to form a better seal.

 

[SirLancelot]

Draught strips on those plant-on strips around the frame come to mind

What do you mean by 'plant-on' strips?

 

[^woody^]

That piece of timber that sticks out above the hinges, that goes around the inside of the frame, and which the door hatch closes against, are plant-on strips (or stops).

 

[ree]

FWIW: those barely catching hinge screws & hinges are an accident waiting to happen - a sudden jar from the ladder, or a heavy slam closing of the hatch, could bring the ply piece tumbling down.

The top of the hatch piece should also be insulated.

OP, given your concerns why not have the hatch re-done?

 

[AronSearle]

That is an absolute **** take.

Ree is right, those hinges are completely inadequate, particularly how they are supported by screws into the edge of timber which may shear out.

Compressible drought strips (bout a tenner from a DIY shed) fitted into the recess will make it airtight.

Whilst it is a **** poor job, seals are needed anyway as even a millimetre gap will still let air bleed.

Also I would recommend bonding some rigid foam to the back of the plywood to properly insulate the hatch (not sure what those screwed on sticks are supposed to achieve, other than to make good some cheap rubbish plywood)

 

[SirLancelot]

If I were to start again,

What would be a sensible approach.

I'm going to 'DIY' it.

 

[AronSearle]

What he has done is the right method, just sloppy sloppy sloppy.

Decent quality plywood. I suspect those battens screwed onto the back are to restrain warp, decent quality plywood at that size should be self flat.

I suspect the opening is not perfectly square, so I would cut it to size with just a 'little' extra, then plane and sand edges to make it fit snug. You could face it with plasterboard which will be easier to file to shape and blend in more (though it will be more fragile).

As said, rigid foam bonded to the back to give you some insulation.

Still use compressible drought strips to make it airtight, you can't rely on a snug fit for that.

Two locking mechanisms can be used for added protection, and to create further compression to the seals

The main problem is the hinges are just sloppily done and too small (bolded because I think they are a hazard as is), you want the portion of the hinge holding the door further up so it is not supported on an edge of timber.

Also, what I am describing is possibly overkill for some, but if I was doing it for my own place it is what I would do as a perfectionist.

 

[noseall]

Also, what I am describing is possibly overkill for some, but if I was doing it for my own place it is what I would do as a perfectionist.

No kidding!

Whilst it is a **** poor job, seals are needed anyway as even a millimetre gap will still let air bleed.

 

[AronSearle]

Trolling belongs in GD noseall.