Magnaclean Pro2 tips

2 Dec 2018
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United Kingdom
Hello again, after seeing my previous thread about the boiler leak was closed, issue which by the way was resolved after my gas engineer replaced both the diverter block and the actuator, it didn't make sense to replace just a cartridge inside the diverter block as it was all covered in rust and dirt/sludge was present both outside and inside.

Anyway, now I'm thinking of adding some inhibitor in the system (I believe this is something I'm allowed to do as a diy-er), as the boiler was drained, plus I have lost quite a lot of water during the last 10 days or so since the leak was discovered.
I can do this via the Magnaclean Pro 2 which was installed last year when my system was also powerflushed.
Already bought Fernox F1 500ml and have called Adey who were kind enough to tell me that they will be sending out a replacement seal kit for my product, free of charge.
This is just to have a spare kit, should there be a problem with the current seals after replacing the lid.

Now, could anyone please share some tips for correctly adding the inhibitor.
I might be wrong, but my understanding is that I should completely turn off my boiler (or not, plus water in the system should be warm or cold?), close the isolation valves of the magnaclean, slowly open the air vent to release the pressure and remove the lid, drain the magnaclean by removing the bottom screw, clean everything inside, replace bottom screw, add inhibitor and replace the lid. Open lower isolation valve to fill with water, release pressure again from the air vent and open the second isolation valve. Switch on boiler and let it run for a while so that the inhibitor circulates in the system. Check for leaks and job done?

One thing that I wanted to mention is that the customer representative from Adey was saying I should not use any silicone grease for their seals or other parts of the magnaclean, as they do not recommend this. Their seals already come with some sort of greasing on them.
Now, I understand this might not be necessary for new seals, but how about the used ones if they're still usable and look ok?
Apologies for the long post.
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IME, the isolation valves may well leak if you disturb them.

Far easier to depressurise the system from a drain off point, and release enough water to allow you to pour some inhibitor into an upstairs towel rail. Then re-pressurise.
Didn't know the isolation valves are prone to leaks as well, how are people supposed to clean their magnaclean filters if they're so fragile?
Don't have any towel rails, so a bit more difficult to pour inhibitor inside the rads.
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yes turn boiler off.
the old magnaclean valves, red ones, were prone to leaking, but the new ones I never had a problem.
if its the new pro 2, isolate it, open the bleed screw, put a container underneath, undo the union underneath, drain out it out, retighten ,open cap, pour in inhibitor, re fit, close bleed valve, open isolation valves, bleed the top.
Don't worry about using silicon grease..Adey are just covering themselves for the tape.
I grease the threads too. Pretty much all plastics in the boiler industry are Nylon 6.6 with glass fibre...and it's fine with silicon.

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