Masonry joist Hangers - How to?

[Speediii]

For my loft project I was going to cut out holes in the walls and install 8x2 joists to sit in the walls, I don't think I can do that and have decided to use 8x2 masonry hangers instead. The problem is how to do so? The walls are already up so how do i cut the bricks, get the hangers in and then drill and/or use bolts to secure them to the brick, I am a little confused. Can I use a circular saw and cut a line in the bricks and push the hangers in? If I was to do this would the hangers hold the joists?

Is there an easier way to do this? Do strong hangers exist which can be drilled into the brick and then hold 8x2 joists?

 

[noseall]

For my loft project I was going to cut out holes in the walls and install 8x2 joists to sit in the walls, I don't think I can do that and have decided to use 8x2 masonary hangers instead. The problem is how to do so? The walls are already up so how do i cut the bricks, get the hangers in and then drill and/or use bolts to secure them to the brick, I am a little confused. Can I use a circular saw and cut a line in the bricks and push the hangers in? If I was to do this would the hangers hold the joists?

Is there an easier way to do this? Do strong hangers exist which can be drilled into the brick and then hold 8x2 joists?

Why can't you let the joists sit on the wall? Is there enough masonry above the proposed joists that allows you to use hangers?

 

[Speediii]

It seem like too much hassle, I will be installing approx 16 joists and not done it before.

Yes, there is enough wall.

 

[robinbanks]

Generally, it is easier to install a ledger beam on the wall and then install the joist hangers on that

You can do this solo if you can lift the beam yoirself; drill a hole near each end such that you can leave a screw poking out the wall, sit the beam on the screws, drill through the beam at whatever regular interval you've chosen and screw it to the wall proper, then remove the two temporary support screws

Install joist hangers with square twist nails to the holing spec required by the hanger and then sit the joists in

 

[Speediii]

I will not be having the beam, just the hangers in the walls

 

[robinbanks]

Is there an easier way to do this?

 

[noseall]

Ive never

I will not be having the beam, just the hangers in the walls

Ive never been a fan of retro fitting build-in joust hangers. Bolted pole plate is a good alternative.
Joists sat on the wall is much better though. Why the reluctance?

 

[Speediii]

I'm thinking terms terms of the space, the loft ladder is installed right next to a wall which makes placing a piece of timber there very awkward. First time doing my loft or a project like this so a little reluctant in some areas.

 

[George_engineer]

A ledger beam is easier, but if you want to use retrofitted masonry joist hangers then yes:
cut a slot,
clean out with brush & air,
fill with mortar
push in joist hanger


There's no structural difference in a retrofitted hanger and one laid in the bed course... so long as the mortar bond is good.

But cutting 15 slots is harder work than a ledger beam in my opinion.

 

[Speediii]

The strength is still the same if I was to add the joists hangers in the brickwork or I was to add a beam?

Is the beam simply screwed straight into the wall without wall plugs?

Will I have to let the mortar dry with the joist in place before placing the joists in the hangers?

 

[George_engineer]

Normally resin anchors are specified, this is because old masonry is less reliable when using mechanical anchors. It is unlikely that any sort of plug & screw fixing would give enough capacity.

The anchor size and spacing is dependent on the span and use of the floor, so it may need to be specified by an engineer.

 

[Speediii]

For now I'm only boarding the loft so no engineer is being used. Still trying to figure out the easiest way for me to add the floor and board it

 

[JohnD]

Will I have to let the mortar dry

Mortar does not gain strength by drying.

As a cement-based material, it gains strength, and hardens over time, by a chemical reaction with the water in the mix, which stops when it dries, and does not restart. It starts fast and gets slower.

Design strength of concrete is reached after 28 continuous days of moistness. Builders seldom leave it that long. 7 days gives 70%, which is often enough. Cover it to protect it from hot sun. Cloud and persistent drizzle are ideal. A garden sprayer or plant mister during thr first week will help.

 

[Speediii]

Some of the things you guys are telling me goes over my head.

The easier way may well be to drill in a beam to bith walls and hang the joists off them.

 

[JohnD]