Returning to the pic in #19,the spring loaded needle valve should end up with the lever on top, parallel with the carb body.
John
John
McCulloch spark plug
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Returning to the pic in #19,the spring loaded needle valve should end up with the lever on top, parallel with the carb body.
John
John
This could help or fry your brain
https://www.walbro.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/WTseries.pdf
I use these for good service and genuine parts
http://www.rowenacarbs.co.uk/
https://www.walbro.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/WTseries.pdf
I use these for good service and genuine parts
http://www.rowenacarbs.co.uk/
I have found a pdf for this walbro wf441 carb and it doesnt show this brown gasket.
What it shows is a thin gasket with a large hole in the middle so basically acting like a spacer.
So because of this i left off the brown gasket & put the carb back on.
The trimmer would not prime up & no fuel in the see through plastic/rubber primer bulb.
I then swapped the pipes around and i could feel a different response straight away & could see the fuel then coming into the primer etc.
Having said that it started & run for say 3 seconds after the third pull but the next 6 7 8 pulls nothing.
The H L screws are 1 full turn out
What it shows is a thin gasket with a large hole in the middle so basically acting like a spacer.
So because of this i left off the brown gasket & put the carb back on.
The trimmer would not prime up & no fuel in the see through plastic/rubber primer bulb.
I then swapped the pipes around and i could feel a different response straight away & could see the fuel then coming into the primer etc.
Having said that it started & run for say 3 seconds after the third pull but the next 6 7 8 pulls nothing.
The H L screws are 1 full turn out
Last edited:
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The gasket as you call it, try 32 on the list , it can be brown or black plasticy or black rubbery
That carb is different and so it that gasket on that sheet.
I found a pdf file for WALBRO WF 441 But all looks correct apart from this item in question.
What they show is the same shape as the cover with a large hole in it. Image the screws were to long and you need a spacer then this is what you would use to loose the excess gap.
Anyway what they list on the odd sheet is also different to what is fitted.
Either way I don’t know if it’s previous history so maybe somebody just fitted it some years back and it shouldn’t even be there ?
So I’ve taken this carb apart again today and give it another clean with carb cleaner.
The symptoms or what happens when I pull it is exactly the same as before I took it apart.
I think I’ve done as much as you can with the fuel side of things so what about ignition.
Changed the plug with a known working plug until the new one arrives in the post.
Still no joy.
I’ve seen videos on checking the coil with a multimeter but that’s providing you have the coil off.
I quickly did the following hoping to get the the coil but had to stop.
Removed grab handle.
Removed throttle handle.
With the unit then side down removed all the screws that hold the bottom plate on.
With this removed there is plenty of grease on the rotary workings for the blades.
At this point I stopped as I wasn’t sure without advice how to continue.
I assume I need to remove the blades and there must be some kind of connection from bottom of engine to this part where I am as I still couldn’t get the next section off to expose the coil & the magneto, is that what you call it. Part that coil generates spark with.
Maybe you could advise them tomorrow I can check with multimeter the coil is clean up connections etc.
I found a pdf file for WALBRO WF 441 But all looks correct apart from this item in question.
What they show is the same shape as the cover with a large hole in it. Image the screws were to long and you need a spacer then this is what you would use to loose the excess gap.
Anyway what they list on the odd sheet is also different to what is fitted.
Either way I don’t know if it’s previous history so maybe somebody just fitted it some years back and it shouldn’t even be there ?
So I’ve taken this carb apart again today and give it another clean with carb cleaner.
The symptoms or what happens when I pull it is exactly the same as before I took it apart.
I think I’ve done as much as you can with the fuel side of things so what about ignition.
Changed the plug with a known working plug until the new one arrives in the post.
Still no joy.
I’ve seen videos on checking the coil with a multimeter but that’s providing you have the coil off.
I quickly did the following hoping to get the the coil but had to stop.
Removed grab handle.
Removed throttle handle.
With the unit then side down removed all the screws that hold the bottom plate on.
With this removed there is plenty of grease on the rotary workings for the blades.
At this point I stopped as I wasn’t sure without advice how to continue.
I assume I need to remove the blades and there must be some kind of connection from bottom of engine to this part where I am as I still couldn’t get the next section off to expose the coil & the magneto, is that what you call it. Part that coil generates spark with.
Maybe you could advise them tomorrow I can check with multimeter the coil is clean up connections etc.
Thats the metering side not the side of the carb that the brown pump gasket fits
I posted to show where the coil is located not for the carb
Afternoon.
Im looking to take the lower section off from the engine so i can gain access to the coil so it can be checked.
Last night i found a photo of which is attached of the item in question,please check it out.
Ive now got all the bolts removed but it will not separate so please advise how or why its still connected.
Once off i can check coil & clean up contacts etc as i need this running by Saturday.
Many thanks.
Bamber G.
Im looking to take the lower section off from the engine so i can gain access to the coil so it can be checked.
Last night i found a photo of which is attached of the item in question,please check it out.
Ive now got all the bolts removed but it will not separate so please advise how or why its still connected.
Once off i can check coil & clean up contacts etc as i need this running by Saturday.
Many thanks.
Bamber G.
Attachments
This should not happen until the engine runs above certain revs so if you cant split the sections the clutch could be stuck inside the drum but not too sure without it being in front of me.
Hi,
As i was nearly there the postman turned up with my spark plug tester.
Fitting the tester then down to the shed in the dark each pull of the cord shows a strong spark.
At this point i stopped trying to get the coil out & put it back together.
So this does seem like a carb issue dont you think ?
Ive taken it apart twice & cleaned it.
Why it dont start / run is a mystery.
So lets assume the carb is no use and my carb is WT441 can i just put anything with the correct hole spacing on there just to see if it then starts / runs even if poor just to rule out the carb.
I can then look for something to fit on it
As i was nearly there the postman turned up with my spark plug tester.
Fitting the tester then down to the shed in the dark each pull of the cord shows a strong spark.
At this point i stopped trying to get the coil out & put it back together.
So this does seem like a carb issue dont you think ?
Ive taken it apart twice & cleaned it.
Why it dont start / run is a mystery.
So lets assume the carb is no use and my carb is WT441 can i just put anything with the correct hole spacing on there just to see if it then starts / runs even if poor just to rule out the carb.
I can then look for something to fit on it
GHS Ltd do a McCulloch 441 carb for around £18, including delivery!
Ive worked on dozens of these carbs, maybe 100’s.....and on occasion they defeat me too - and I have 48 aerosols of carb cleaner, a huge compressor and an ultrasonic bath cleaner. So, youre not alone!
John
Ive worked on dozens of these carbs, maybe 100’s.....and on occasion they defeat me too - and I have 48 aerosols of carb cleaner, a huge compressor and an ultrasonic bath cleaner. So, youre not alone!
John
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