Nervous about my kitchen light setup

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diagram:
https://imgur.com/a/SK5nrAR

I've had a new ceiling overboarded and can no longer get my kitchen light back on due to the wires coming out the ceiling being too short (lost about 1/2 inch)

The electrician couldn't come out but I spoke to him on the phone and he told me that all I need to do is get a connector block and extend the wires with some 3 core flex. So far so good but I need to double check I'm doing everything right.

As per the diagram above, based on his recommendation I plan to use 0.75mm wire with a 16A terminal block. Are these compatible?

2 issues:

1) is it ok to twist the two black neutrals together and connect to a single terminal joined at the other end by a single blue neutral wire?

2) my ceiling terminal has no earth wire and I'm pretty sure my kitchen light is metallic/chrome and it doesn't have a sticker saying it's double insulated.

The setup was like this before the ceiling installation (minus the connector blocks) and caused no issues but I'm worried this setup could be dangerous.

Advice please?
 
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1) You should be using twin and earth solid core cable and not flex
2) You don't say what rating your light is or what protection you have but 1mm should be large enough. 1.5mm is fine if there's no 1mm. 2.5mmyou might have issues getting into the light terminals.
3) Terminal blocks shouldn't be used unless this is accessible which it doesn't sound like it is. You should be using maintenance free connectors (i.e. wago's) They are easier to use anyway
4) Get 3 way wagos then you won't need to put two wires in the same slot
5) You should have an earth or use plastic / double insulated fittings
6) Look for another electrician - your current one sounds rubbish
 
The terminations should be made in a maintenance free junction box .
If there is no earth you must not connect a fitting that has to be earthed. Fit a pendant ,or a double insulated fitting.
 
First of all, has your newly boarded ceiling been plastered/painted yet?

If not, you may be able to cut holes in it if needed.

It's quite likely the earth wires (and a connector consisting of the permanent live loop) is still above the ceiling.
 
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First of all, has your newly boarded ceiling been plastered/painted yet?

If not, you may be able to cut holes in it if needed.

It's quite likely the earth wires (and a connector consisting of the permanent live loop) is still above the ceiling.

The ceiling has been plastered but not painted and theres only a small hole now to allow the wires to hang down. Would an electrician charge a lot to install an earth wire in this situation?

As I said, the setup was like this before I moved in and I installed a new light earlier this year and have had no issues - I take it that despite this the setup is still not safe?

Earth wire problem aside, would using wago connectors with 0.75mm be ok or is 1mm better? What's the main difference between them? Light is 50W max by the way.

Thanks for the responses.
 
Is your wiring in conduit? Can you feel a plastic or metal circular box just above the new ceiling?

The wiring you have described suggests conduit OR regular twin and earth cable, with some missing wires which must be tucked up above the ceiling and need pulling out.

PHOTOGRAPHS REALLY WOULD HELP HERE.

How old is your property? Is it a flat? Is it an old council house?

Do other lights in other rooms have earth wires?

PHOTOGRAPHS WOULD BE AN ADVANTAGE.
 
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Sorry not sure what you mean by in conduit? As far as I know: the hall light has no earth wire, the bathroom did have an earth wire but the plasterer removed that as was not in use as my bathroom ceiling light is double insulated. The bathroom light has the same issue as the kitchen one right now but I'm less concerned about that as I won't need to twist the two neutral wires together and the light is plastic.

Property is a 70's build flat and the wiring and fuse box are old. Not an old council house as far as I know.

I've uploaded two pics, the second one shows the connections inside my kitchen light
 

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The issue with the 0.75mm is it's flex and not T&E. Flex is designed for wires that a moved (i.e hoover power leads), T&E is designed for fixed wiring. To be perfectly honest I can't see using flex would cause any danger - but it's not best practice (0.75 will be able to handle the 6A which I assume is the breaker on this circuit)

Until the 70's / 80's houses were wired without earths in the light circuits. If it's an old house and was done like this then to get an earth you're really looking at a rewire. Might be worth it next time you're doing serious decorating but otherwise I would just use double insulated fittings.

As sparkwright said - it's possible that the earth is there - it's just tucked away. You mentioned 2 different colours of cable - black and blue. I'm assuming the blacks are the lighting radial (so pre 2004) and the blue is a new cable to the switch? Look between the black and red wires - this is where you'll find the earth.
 
Sorry not sure what you mean by in conduit? As far as I know: the hall light has no earth wire, the bathroom did have an earth wire but the plasterer removed that as was not in use as my bathroom ceiling light is double insulated. The bathroom light has the same issue as the kitchen one right now but I'm less concerned about that as I won't need to twist the two neutral wires together and the light is plastic.

Property is a 70's build flat and the wiring and fuse box are old. Not an old council house as far as I know.

I've uploaded two pics, the second one shows the connections inside my kitchen light

Can you take a picture inside the ceiling void (i.e. turn on flash and put the lens in the hole)? We need to see where the black and red wires enter the white / grey cable sheath.
 
The blue referred to us what is being used to extend.
Nowt wrong with flex to extend to a 50watt lamp.
The circuit isn't wired in twin and earth ,they are more likely singles (in conduit possibly). Looped neutrals to ceiling and looped lives at switches,or ceiling.
Without an earth conductor you should not connect a fitting that requires earthing.
Conduit is basically a tube that cables run through to protect them ,if metal ,it can be used as an earth, you may or may not have conduit.
The terminal blocks ,even if wagos are used ,must be in an enclosure ,not just shoved up into the hole in the ceiling.
 
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Here are some more photos - best i could get
 

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Looks like a besa box and conduit with single ,unsheathed conductors.
It would need to be checked and tested ,but it could well be earthed.
 
I'm not sure I could fit two wago connectors inside an enclosure up there to be honest

Not quite sure what to do now...
 
Your fitting looks like a fluorescent ,strip light ? If it is there appears to be enough black and red wire length to get them into the fitting ,albeit they will not reach its terminal strip.
If so you can put your new terminal block inside the fitting , and run flex from it to the fittings terminal block.
That does not however alter the fact that it is not earthed. That needs an electrician to test the box in the ceiling / conduit is an effective earthing point . If it is ,then it can be used to provide an earth connection to the fitting.
 

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