Neutrals At Switch

Anybody alse a little 4nal like me and uses sleeve to 'harmonise' old cables in switches such as when adding a 2-way to an existing light switch?

Only if you can sleeve the other end too otherwise no, I'll leave them as they were intended to be.
 
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you are being trained to do it by the book at college then have to learn this method
Which book says it shouldn't be done like this?
i did say we dont want to go there again
go to the librery and look on the shelf any book with a lighting diagram
see if you can find one showing neutrals in connector blocks in switches
oh just picked one up at random
BASIC electrical installation work
by trevor linsley
if you want any more let me know
brian scadden perhaps
 
there are no rules telling you whether to wire it at the light or at the switch but....

Electrical contractors especially on new builds and council housing estates are wiring to the switch because, they wire them as if a dummy was going to live in the dwelling/household itselfs,

Which means by wiring it at the switch tells the person using the switch that when the switch is in the "OFF" position there is no power at the light, so if he/she wants to put a new light up they can do so safely by just switching off the light!
 
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JT,


Which means by wiring it at the switch tells the person using the switch that when the switch is in the "OFF" position there is no power at the light,

Highly dangerous assumption to make! Did this myself when I was training and got 2 belts for it. One off the wire because the idiot who did the original install didn't seem to know about 'live' switching and put it in the neutral line and another off the gaffer for assuming it was dead without testing!

As he said, "Never assume, it makes an ASS of U and ME! :LOL:
And there are still plenty of 'builders' who do electrics that only know how to wire up a plug but think they know how to do a full rewire! :eek:
 
go to the librery and look on the shelf any book with a lighting diagram
see if you can find one showing neutrals in connector blocks in switches
oh just picked one up at random
BASIC electrical installation work
by trevor linsley
if you want any more let me know
brian scadden perhaps
This tells me three things:

1) You are utterly incapable of thinking for yourself.

2) You are utterly incapable of accepting new ideas even when explained to you in the simplest possible terms.

3) You never want anything to change.

You may be unwilling to move with the times, but please don't infect people starting out, like jtizzard, with your hidebound attitudes.
 
i know its a dangerous thing to say, but assuming the person who is going to change the light forgets to isolate the power at the consumer unit hes most likely going to remember to switch of the exsisting light at the light switch which the light is then going to be totaly dead.

Another reason is that suggesting the house just has standard fixings (pendant light and standard switch) its far easier to unscrew the pendant cover than to unscrew to switch screws, which makes it harder to get the live terminals? Correct?
 
you don't know me witch part of we don't want to go there again
do you have a problem understanding
i can tell a lot about you from your posts but as i don't know you
i would not judge you btw
guidance note 3
the test rig in all colleges
2391 testing and inspecting
we have been here before if you are happy with that method carry on
and if you want a fight join the army
i don't wish to enter into a battle of wits with an unarmed man
 
When I and and a lot of pre 16th regs people learnt , it was rare to have a neutral at a switch unless it was double pole or had an indicater which needed the neutral.
It was not a reg afaik but just seemed to be the most common way.

Most of the older switches and boxes were smaller then, and old switch drop pipes were used ,barely big enough to get one T +E down and most people had ceiling roses then.

However for a few years now with the arrival of downlighters etc, it has became more acceptable, and according to the people who do domestic, quite common now.

With conduit work it is more likely to use the method with no neutrals at the switch.

If you know and learn both methods, you can decide what way is best for the situation.
Each method has it's advantages I think.
 
There is no problem here. The location of the neutrals depends on the installation. No point running extra cable just so you can acheive a loop-in at the ceiling rose. If the switch comes first on the run, then use it for your neutrals! If you have downlights/walllights, then you don't want a loop-in anywhere else than at the switch. If you're using singles, then even better, no neutral blocks at all. You can also use 3-core to pick up your live, neutral and switched live. You can feed a neutral to an intermediate switch. You can even feed a neutral to one end of a 2 way pair, with the light fitting in between the two. All these methods are acceptable! No problem!
 
you don't know me witch part of we don't want to go there again
do you have a problem understanding
The part where you start up with your ignorant dinosaur prejudice against anything different from what you were taught, and start trying to infect new learners with your closed-minded "we cannot do it differently because it has always been done this way and it has always been done this way because we never do anything different" mantra, and then try to avoid being held to account for your appalling attitude by saying "I don't want to go there again".

If you don't want to go there again then keep quiet, and let your lack of imagination remain just yours - don't tell a younger generation not to think or change.
 

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