Gary, thanks. One last question and I know this might be a how long is a piece of string question. But how many times do you think it will take to get the system clean?
New boiler - But system not flushed
- Thread starter meanpeach
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possibly. 
sorry about that, as its some what non committal.
The Baker has a good point.
xtra cost again.
sorry about that, as its some what non committal.
The Baker has a good point.
xtra cost again.
You have to trust your plumber to do his job as it will all depend on how bad it is to start with, but with a proper power flush there should be no issues and even with a cleanser they can do a good job, as a manufactures technician i would prefer a power flush over a cleanser, if you look at the fernox or sentinal web site you may get more info, but remember they are trying to sell the stuff so they have a agenda,Gary.
You have to ensure that the system is clean and is PH neutral (same PH as your water mains-a pH of 7 or thereabouts)when you leave it otherwise there could be problems in the future.
WB says a PH of 8.6 or less and they use aluminium HEXs .
That level of PH is alkaline and below 7 is acidic so you aim for neutral with a TDS (total disolved solids) level of about 10% above the TDS of your water mains and a turbidity (clear looking) of 200 PPM.
The TDS of water mains varies from area to area. I've seen it as high as 118 and as low as 44 same with the PH. Job I did a few weeks ago the PH of the water main was about 8.4 on another about a mile away last week it was 7.4 but you can only leave the system with a PH the same as the water main because you are using that water to fill the system.
I used to do what your installer did but not any more. I've been caught out with that method. I had recouperators bursting within two weeks.
I'm not saying that my flushing methods caused those HEXs to burst but it gave the manufacturer a get out.
I now only PF the system with X800 and a magnaclean PF filter and then a thorough flush with clean water up to as much as six times if required with hot and cold water before inhibiting the system.
WB says a PH of 8.6 or less and they use aluminium HEXs .
That level of PH is alkaline and below 7 is acidic so you aim for neutral with a TDS (total disolved solids) level of about 10% above the TDS of your water mains and a turbidity (clear looking) of 200 PPM.
The TDS of water mains varies from area to area. I've seen it as high as 118 and as low as 44 same with the PH. Job I did a few weeks ago the PH of the water main was about 8.4 on another about a mile away last week it was 7.4 but you can only leave the system with a PH the same as the water main because you are using that water to fill the system.
I used to do what your installer did but not any more. I've been caught out with that method. I had recouperators bursting within two weeks.
I'm not saying that my flushing methods caused those HEXs to burst but it gave the manufacturer a get out.
I now only PF the system with X800 and a magnaclean PF filter and then a thorough flush with clean water up to as much as six times if required with hot and cold water before inhibiting the system.
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you are getting top advice.
Cheers guys, thanks for all your advice.
If he is not using a power flush, then get him to mains flush each rad/circuit using the filling loop and shutting off the appropriate boiler isolating valve. Just as good as a power flush after a good chemical cleanse.
Definately fit the magnaclean though.
Definately fit the magnaclean though.
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