new combi boiler install: not happy

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24 Apr 2008
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Edinburgh
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United Kingdom
I've had my combi-boiler replaced last week with a Worcester Bosch Greenstar 27CDi.
When the installer left, all seems to work ok, but I quickly realized that the room temperature was not climbing as quick as it should. Bought an IR thermometer and notice huge differences in radiators, temperature. All the LSVs were fully open, so I did balance the system but in the end still got not very hot radiators (~55-60 degrees).

Then I noticed a strange valve linking the flow and return pipes of my boiler (see a picture on http://www.gogo.me.uk/pipes.jpg by the way I have no idea what is the pipe on the extreme right it doesn't seem to be in the installation manual ) and found out that it's supposed to be a by-pass valve. It was fully open.

Reading the documentation about the Greenstar CDi, it says everywhere that this model have as a feature "No bypass required" with the benefit of "Labour & money saving" and also say "A built in bypass and automatic anti-cycling device make the Greenstar particularly suitable for use on systems where thermostatic radiator valves are to be used".

So, am I right to get back to the installer and question his installation? I am not completely sure because when I tried to close the valve completely, the boiler start to be noisy and I reopened it in fear of making things worse! But in the end, I did close it half-way and now the radiator are hot (~75 degrees) and balanced. Hurray!

Thanks for any comments.
 
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If the boiler does have a built in auto bypass then this valve should be able to be fully closed. The auto bypass my need adjusting if it is this type.

As a side issue I think his pipe work and soldering is abysmal :eek:

Has he commissioned the boiler, filled in the Benchmark correctly and notified the boiler to CORGI?
 
If the boiler does have a built in auto bypass then this valve should be able to be fully closed. The auto bypass my need adjusting if it is this type.

As a side issue I think his pipe work and soldering is abysmal :eek:

Has he commissioned the boiler, filled in the Benchmark correctly and notified the boiler to CORGI?

Yes, I asked about this an they said yes, but kept the paperwork. It's one of the "established" firm in Edinburgh (which was also recommended to me) but the installer was obviously a young (starting) guy.
That just show how difficult it is to choose an installer and how subjective the recommendations are. I shortlisted 3 installer who were recommended in a way or another. Actually, another one had more recommendations, but was substantially more expensive and the one I used were the ones dealing with my old boiler and offered one additional year of free warranty. Not being a plumber, I had no problems with the pipe work, and if it wasn't for this valve problem, I would probably recommend them as well!
 
I hope the system was cleaned with the amount of flux residue and snotty solder on your joints.
The gate valve bypass is a thing of the past it should be a differential unit with set limits.

Have you taken a sample of water from your system to see what colour it is yet.
Pete
 
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I can't help thinking that if the installer hadn't wasted so much solder on his joints, then he could afford to buy a pipe bender.

Wouldn't need so many joints then (except the ones he was smoking!).
 
Really rough workmanship, but the worrying part is the gas feed. It's connected to (original?) 15mm pipe. This is wrong unless the gas meter is really close. The other possible problem is the condensate pipe. it looks horizontal in the picture, but it should fall about 2.5degrees. Check the installation manual.
 
invest a few pounds in pipe insulation too :eek:

Unless you see convincing evidence that it was filled with Inhibitor, do it yourself.
 
I would call them back the quality of workmanship is terrible, I think the bypass is to close to the boiler, most bypass valves are fitted a minimum of one meter away plus a gate valve is not the correct thing to use as a bypass. The condensate does not look correct and the gas pipe also looks wrong, you are ment to upgrade the system with trv's and a roomstat too, let me guess was it done in one day?
 
I am pretty sure that WB INSIST on at least 22mm minimum gas pipe to their boilers so that 15mm is going to blow any warrantee out of the window.

as has been said that is the shonckiest bit of work I have seen in a while and I hate having a go at another mans work but jaysus thats ruff

:)
 
All manufacturers state that the size of the gas supply pipe must not be less than what they fit as a tail.
 
WOW ! rough as a bears behind,the best looking part of that job is the earth bonding,i take it the installer didnt do it? and if he did he should become a spark and flog his plumbing gear!!!
 
If it's not an optical illusion and the gas pipe does connect to that 15mm pipe then it is just plain wrong.. the pressure drop between the meter and the boiler has got to be more than 1 Mb.. I suspect that is why the price was substantially lower than the other quote. I hate pulling up floors to renew the gas supply but it has got to be done..

Having said that far too many customers think that I am trying to rob them when I say about the new gas supply...
 
The installer is required to leave the Installation Instructions and Benchmark logbook with the customer not take it away as I assume you meant by "but kept the paperwork"

Actually, another one had more recommendations, but was substantially more expensive

Why does that not surprise me - you pays your money & takes your choice.
 

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