Ah! The manufacturers most commonly seem to say about 1.7 Nm for MCBs and 2.0 or 2.3 Nm for RCDs/main switches etc. However, if I use those torques, I can get get them a lot tighter with an ordinary screwdriver (applying the judgement I would normally apply) without using excessive force and without any feeling that I am getting anywhere near shearing anything off.
You're welcome - but I was silly not not have told you where it was (I guess that I'd forgotten that it was a different thread!).
Likewise.
If they weren't so expensive I might be willing to splash out, but they're still silly money
I was given mine, so it cost me nothing - but I soon stopped using it when I came to the conclusion (as above) that I didn't really trust it (in combination with the manufacturer's figures) to tighten terminal screws as securely/safely as I could 'by judgement'!
I would be interested to try one out, but I've not heard good things. Give me a PZ/S2 any day of the week
I don't think that there is anything wrong with the torque screwdrivers, per se. When I became concerned about the one I had, a got a friend who had access to the appropriate kit to check it's calibration - and it was very nearly spot-on. The apparent 'problem' therefore seemed to be the tightening torques recommended by manufacturers of MCBs, RCDs etc. - either that or the 'judgement' I've been applying for many decades results in my doing these things up far too tightly!
No, you must have a plus/minus for CU terminals.
If only it were that simple! Impact driver all day long!No, you must have a plus/minus for CU terminals.
No, you must have a plus/minus for CU terminals.
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
