New Oven Wiring.

[Barson]

Hello.

There's a thread lower down regarding cooker wiring combinations i didn't want to hijack his thread, so i thought I'd start my own.


The situation:

our current oven doesn't work properly so i decided to replace it.
The current oven is a Neff BAP227 2.8KW single oven. It is protected by a 13amp fuse on the end of 2.5mmsq threecore flex (not 2.5mmsq twin and earth cabel) and is plugged into a socket on the main house ring main which in turn is protected with a 32A device in the CU.

I purchased a replacement electrolux EOB53000 3.0KW oven. having been assured by electrolux themselves that:

"This cooker comes with a standard 13amp plug that plugs into a wall socket.

Kind regards

Electrolux Consumer Care Team"

this is not the case. After reading the manual it actually requires:

Connection via: cooker control circuit

min cable/flex size: 2,5mm2

cable flex: PVC/PVC twin and earth

fuse: min 15A / max 20A

It is necessary that you install a double pole switch between the oven and the electricity supply (mains), with a minimum of 3mm between the switch contacts and of a type suitable for the required load in compliance for the current regulations


Option?

My kettle runs at 3000-3100 when it'd on, so why not have the oven plugged in with 2.5mmsq flex and 13A fuse (on the 32A circuit)?


The ceramic hob we have is an hygena 6.2KW protected by its own 32A device in the CU. The hob is wired directly to a switch on the wall via 6mmsq cable, which inturn is wired via 6mmsq cable to the CU.

I cannot add the oven to the hob's circuit because i would exceed the amperage (6.2KW on the hob and 3KW on the oven is 9.2KW/240V=38.4A)


I thought i'd have to get an electrician to wire a NEW circuit from the CU to the oven point giving it its own 32A circuit to run on (with maybe a 15A fuse on a CCU).


any ideas on what to do? I doubt I'll be able to get away with just wiring the new oven using the existing flex as the manual talks about a 3mm gap between contacts on both poles (a switched socket doesn't do this, does it?)



it's my first post, so be gentle.
Dave.

 

[TonyWarrington]

Hi Dave
Been in a similar situation recently wanting to upgrade my own cooker and hob unit and doing the work myself (notifying the req. authority of course)

Got some very good advice and opinions here and patient replies to me questioning the views of others more experienced and professionally qualified.

I am sure a qualified person will be along soon to answer your queries.

I would suspect like me you may find the best way forward to get a spark in to do the job - in my case needed to really change the CU - so no question of me undertaking the job

Cheers
Tony

 

[Steve]

Look behind the hob - you'll see a cooker outlet point. Take a spur off this in 4 or 6mm cable to a single unswitched socket and backbox (fixed where it wont foul the back of the oven). Put a plug on the oven. Isolation is then normally provided by the cooker switch, and the oven is easily removed for servicing (though it is recommended you put about 5 foot of cable on it anyway). Dont worry about the loading. Even with the hob at full belt, if wont be using full current because the elements cycle on and off on thermostats (watch them). And the oven does the same. That MCB wont trip at 38 amps, it will probably take about 5 minutes at that, and as I said this is unlikely.

The instructions you have are pan-European. Anywhere else in Europe and you'd have to put it on a seperate circuit. Not here. Hence the confusion by the manufacturers.

 

[Barson]

hi

thanks for the replies


crafty, so you're saying at the back of the hob istself there should be a connector for a cooker outlet (like a pass through?) wire an unswitched socket to the hob via 6mm cable and use the existing 2.5mm three core flex to connect the new oven to the 13amp plug?


also the breaker isn't 38 amp, it's 32.

 

[Steve]

hi

thanks for the replies
You're welcome.


crafty, so you're saying at the back of the hob istself there should be a connector for a cooker outlet (like a pass through?) wire an unswitched socket to the hob via 6mm cable and use the existing 2.5mm three core flex to connect the new oven to the 13amp plug?
There should be a connector unit in the wall. If you can use the same cable as the rest of the circuit, do, but most find this a bit tricky due to space. If not, use 4mm.

also the breaker isn't 38 amp, it's 32.
I know. 38A breakers arent made! You mentioned that the total load would be 38 amps. I was implying that the 32 amp breaker wouldnt trip at 38 amps for a few minutes. MCBs are made with certain overload tolerances, or "trip curves".

. . . Alternatively simply wire the new oven up as the old one was.

 

[davelx]

See the other thread which is basically the same question, for discussion on wiring a 13A socket to the cooker connection plate:

//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=98492

 

[Barson]

hi

yes, that's the thread i was referring to in my original post


crafty. i just used the plug from the original oven and plugged the thing in

i have one of those Plug-In Mains Power and Energy Monitor things and it draws about 3050 tops with the light and all the fans on.

works fine. if it starts tripping the breaker in the CU then I'll revise my wiring.

ta!

 

[Barson]

got a reply to my e-mail to electrolux:



Thank you for your email

I can confirm that this appliance does work on a 13amp fuse as per the brochure.

The paragraph in the instruction book is under review with the factory as it is incorrect.

Please accept my apologies for any inconvenience this may cause

Kindest regards

Electrolux Consumer Care Team


this confirm what people think, or does it scare people?