New toilet needed...

Not a fan of the bolts through cistern method of close coupling, the bracket on the siphon tail is far superior in my view. Is there a 'back nut' that tightens these through the cistern to ensure water tight before placing onto the pan?

Now, you see, there’s the problem with people like me trying to learn how to do this kind of thing… there WERE two nuts as well as the wing nuts, but there was absolutely no reference to them in the instructions – in fact the instructions simply said to put the bolts through and tighten the wing nuts. I did wonder what they were for, but then thought maybe they’re an alternative to the wing nuts so that you could tighten them properly with a box spanner or something. Didn't occur to me what they might really be for – d’ohhh!!!

OK thanks for the info, off it all comes again…

I have only ever worked on toilets that have the metal plate thingy, and no cistern holes – wasn’t even aware that some were done this way. That being said, this toilet is the only one I could find which would adequately cover the hole in the tiles left by the previous one.

{EDIT} - and, actually, I’ve just re-checked, and there were only two washers per bolt. So you need one on top, between the bolt head and the rubber bung; and one between the wingnut and the toilet bowl. So none supplied for between the nut, if I fitted one, and the bung… another reason I assumed the nuts were alternatives to the wingnuts.
 
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That's what we're here for! I would suggest you use the 2 spare nuts to tighten up the bolts onto the cistern, and ensure watertight. Then fit your doughnut washer to the flush valve/siphon tail, before carefully offering the cistern to the pan, and securing using wing nuts. A smear of Vaseline or similar may not hurt, can help prevent the bolts corroding, and facilitate future removal of the cistern if required. Wing nuts should only ever be done finger tight to avoid any possibility of cracking the china.


Out of interest, does it have a siphon or flush valve?
 
That's what we're here for! I would suggest you use the 2 spare nuts to tighten up the bolts onto the cistern, and ensure watertight. Then fit your doughnut washer to the flush valve/siphon tail, before carefully offering the cistern to the pan, and securing using wing nuts. A smear of Vaseline or similar may not hurt, can help prevent the bolts corroding, and facilitate future removal of the cistern if required. Wing nuts should only ever be done finger tight to avoid any possibility of cracking the china.


Out of interest, does it have a siphon or flush valve?

Err... flush valve, I think? Not sure I'd know the difference though.

So... I'll have to find some suitable washers then... OK, will have a go...
 
Siphon looks like this: https://www.screwfix.com/p/thomas-dudley-ltd-adjustable-siphon-237mm/9756f

Flush Valves: https://www.screwfix.com/p/fluidmaster-push-button-cable-dual-flush-valve/51173

If fitted with a siphon, it's worthwhile ditching the £5 effort the cistern usually comes with, and fitting the Dudley version from the start. Dudley version splits, to allow the washer to be changed without dismantling the cistern.

Doughnut washer is the big washer that fits around the tail of the outlet from the cistern to the pan. https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Black-Doughnut-Washer-for-Close-Coupled-Toilets---1-5-inch/p/420067 Should be one provided with the toilet.
 
Some pics... as I mentioned, there is a nut with that bolt too, but not shown. And no washer for it.


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You have a flush valve there, probably have to take cistern off the pan if maintenance is required unfortunately.

I would personally, fit metal washer/cone washer internally, metal washer then nut externally, tighten gently to ensure watertight, then once located on pan, a tap washer, then another metal washer, then wing nut to tighten. Tap washer under the pan helps absorb any slight movement, and protects the chinaware when tightening.
 
Thats the same setup as mine, plenty of silicone on the cone rubber and fit from inside with a washer on top as said above.

Think I used a couple of O rings from underneath as well to centre the fitting.

They are not the easiest if cisterns to fit!.
 
Thats the same setup as mine, plenty of silicone on the cone rubber and fit from inside with a washer on top as said above.

Think I used a couple of O rings from underneath as well to centre the fitting.

They are not the easiest if cisterns to fit!.

Silicone not needed on the cone washer, but not detrimental.
 
Silicone not needed on the cone washer, but not detrimental.

After having it out 3 times I did the silicone as belt and braces to everything else!.

Been in 2 years now and no leaks (touches wood).
 
Well, all done as above, and it does indeed seem to be watertight :LOL:

Plumber coming tomorrow to do inlet pipe - will report back.
 
I must say, if it were a production requirement to have holes in the cistern my solution for the wedged rubbers would have been completely different but as a customer you can only work with what you've got!.
 
I must say, if it were a production requirement to have holes in the cistern my solution for the wedged rubbers would have been completely different but as a customer you can only work with what you've got!.

Yep - AND, while doing all this sh***, I've been dismantling the electric driver's seat of my car, which was stuck on full recline and due to fail its MOT on Friday morning. As it finally got too dark outside to carry on working, I got a fingernail into a tiny microswitch, moved it, and the seat back rose majestically back into place like a mummy out of its sarcophagus in an old Ealing "B" movie.

I think today can be counted as a success after all :cool::cool::cool:
 
£65 well spent. (y) Sometimes it’s nice to just pay someone who knows what they’re doing while you sit back and let them get on with it.
 

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