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No electric to over and hob - fuse problem?

Joined
3 Jan 2010
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Location
Derbyshire
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United Kingdom
Hi Everyone

I currently don't have any power to my hob or cooker. My hob power is through a shared 45 and 15 amp socket.

First noticed the problem of the socket not working yesterday and then tried the hob and nothing. So having a read of posts, thought best option would to replace the socket, which I have done. No change.

Tested the Neutral to Live screws for power on the socket and 0 was coming through. So, I thought it must be the fuse not letting any power in.

Looked at all the fuses(all old fuse wire and one cartridge fuse) and all seemed to have wire intact. Tried testing both two of the 30 AMP fuses, there are four in total. Both reported 0 voltage - which I believe is correct?

Didn't check the other two as I didn't notice they were 30 AMP ones. Will do that tomorrow. Plus I am going to replace the fuses with MCB just to ensure I know they are not the problem.

While testing the fuses, I noticed the oven isn't working either - it is on the other side of the kitchen and presumably on a different fuse.

Other than checking the other two fuses and replacing them with MCB's, I don't know what else to do?

I doubt it is appliance failure, as the socket, oven and hob have all gone together.

Any guidance appreciated,
Thanks.
 
How are you testing the power and the fuses - you say that the fuses reported 0 voltage, if you were testing them by metering the fuse directly away from the CU then you would want to do a resistance test, not a voltage test...
 
Hi

Thanks for replying.

Testing using a rapitest multimeter when out of the fusebox. I'm not 100% that I using it correctly to be honest.

I've got it set to V with the ~ on top of it - is that the right one for a resistance test?

Thanks.
 
Nope, that's the AC voltage setting. To check the resistance you want it on the lowest of the ohm ranges (the symbol that looks like an O but with the bottom folded out to the sides if you see what I mean).

On this range, you'll see a 1 if there is no continuity (meaning infinite resistance), or a very low number (e.g. 0.01) if there is continuity...
 
Thanks - I'll have a look tommorrow at the fuses when I can take them out.

In the mean time, presumably there aren't issues/harm replacing the old fuses with MCB ones?

Ta.
 
The symbol you are looking for on your meter is this, Ω.

When you first switch to this setting you will see 1
Place your probes either end of the fuse, if it is intact you will see a different number such as 0.1, 0.3 or even higher due to the resistance of your probe leads. If it still reads 1 you have a blown fuse. Replace it with the correct size but you really need to find out why it blew in the first place. Replacing fuses with mcb's won't cure a fault and if the fault remains you will not be able to switch the mcb on anyway.
There is also the fact that some CU's are not designed to take mcb's or will only take a specific type depending on their age and make.
Final point, all fuses should be marked to indicate what circuits they control.
 
The symbol you are looking for on your meter is this, Ω.

When you first switch to this setting you will see 1

Not on all meters. Flukes and some other up market multi-meters on open circuit resistance test show 0.L which is far less misleading than showing an open circuit as apparently being 1 something (ohm. Kohm Mohm )
 
Thanks for everyones replies.

Tested the fuse corrrectly this time and it was reporting 1. It was the Cartridge fuse one and I couldn't find any replacement fuses of that size. So, I bought a Wylex MCB one and it works a treat. Both hob, socket and oven working.

But I still don't know what tripped it. Seems strange as we have the oven and hob on together all the time. The socket just has a coffee maker which is never used at the same time. Only a few months from new.

I've replaced the socket for the hob and socket, so hopefully that was it.

Thanks for everyone's comments. What would we do without these forums?!?!?
 

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