No power.. All mcbs RCD and main breaker dropped...

Could the smart meter be knackered?
Don't know not up on smart meters really, only things I can think of are quite rare, loose main tails dislodged by fault current and main switch knackered by fault current but In my experience the circuit mcb is knackered normally. Loose tails you would normally see some arcing on the board, no evidence on your pics. Other than that maybe as you suggest the meter is fubar.
 
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So I'm here.. Checked the voltage on the incoming into the cu. Between live and neutral on the main switch.. If the switch is on. 0v.

If its off, its slowly decreasing... Started at say 140v, leaving the meter on it drops maybe 1v mer sec...

Main switch knackered?
 
I presume you are testing on the supply side screw-heads after sliding the red and black plastic covers up?

high resistance joint on incoming supply. Do you see any signs of smoke stains or charring around the meter or incomer? Does the meter dim when you turn the main switch on?

When you turn the switch on, the load drops the voltage down.
 
could be main switch knackered, does the volts drop on the meter tail side of the switch? If so sounds like a bad connection upstream of where you are testing.
Get your well insulated screwdriver out and check the connections.

Poss a bad connection at the newish smart meter, the drill fault/overload has just pushed the joint into failure mode…..
 
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Measuring on the tail side of isolator switch (red and black covers up)

Settles at approx 89 v, as soon as I turn the isolator switch drops to 0v.


Just seen a patch of brown on the side on the isolator
 

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aha!

those switches have a tunnel, a sort of U-clamp to grip the cable, so you could try turning off the switch and tightening the screw. Do not touch it or move the cable when under load as it may spark badly.

However it now needs a new switch and the cable cut back. The cable is permanently live so it is not a DIY job. The plastic sliding covers are to protect you from touching the permanently live screw heads. Yes, you must use your well-insulated screwdrivers, as Taylor says, and if you are not used to this work you would do better to call in a qualified electrician.

if as it appears the cable has overheated, the copper at the end will have softened, so even if you tighten it, it will come loose and overheat again if not trimmed back.

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It's either a loose connection or trapped insulation in the terminal but I would not expect just a drill to cause the frying so I'd go with loose connection. As JohnD says it's a job for a spark really you just don't want to be sticking your fingers in there it's all very much live. Maybe you could tighten up a loose connection with a VDE rated insulated screwdriver but you will need the spark to change the main switch for you anyway in the very near future.
 
Got a family friend who works for uk power networks coming to take a look... The waiting game begins... And the battery consumption on phones starts to drop...
 
Loose live connection. Guy came had a quick look and test. Tightened up the screw and all working... Will need to order new switch and he will come back and cut back cable and swap out switch at same time.

Thanks for help people! Mum and dad appreciate it!
 

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