Oil Burner Safety Control (TF830.3) - red light was on .......

[Rollerball]

Had a problem with my oil boiler this morning - the lights were on the control panel but the boiler hadn't fired up.

Took a look inside and the red light was on the TF830.3, this unit:

Honeywell/Satronic TF830.3B Control Box, TF830.3B | Buy at H.P.W.

Honeywell/Satronic TF830.3B Control Box, TF830.3B available to buy online, with fast tracked delivery. Heating Parts Warehouse the specialists in plumbing and heating parts and spares.

heatingpartswarehouse.co.uk

Pressed the button and the light went out and the boiler fired.

No idea why but on looking online there are a number of things which can cause this, including a faulty TF830.3

As a test I've since switched the boiler off and on again (via the control panel) and it fired up okay.

The boiler is a Danesmoor 15/19 and it was only serviced a couple of months ago.

I'm wondering if this issue necessarily indicates a 'permanent' fault which is likely to happen again (in other words one that needs a maintenance visit) or can this issue sometimes occur for no apparent reason and then go away completely? A tough question to answer I know given all of the variables.

Still, at least it's working now. I guess I'd better get it looked at.

 

[muggles]

Have you got enough oil in your tank?

 

[Rollerball]

Yes, no problem there, it was the first thing I checked.

It kept running for an hour after the reset, after which I switched it off. Will keep testing of course.

 

[oilhead]

I would first check that the photocell is clean and correctly orientated which could show whether the air setting is ok, and it requires no dismantling of parts. TF830 is very reliable and mainly bombproof in operation. Two months ago the combustion would have been set at low temperatures and may now be a bit rich.

 

[Rollerball]

Is the photocell in the TF830 ?

 

[Burnerman]

I think this will be the B9B burner......a good one, and the photocell plugs in the side so it can see the flame.
It reports its signal back to the tf830 - again one of the best.
John

 

[Burnerman]

I should say - the photocell is at the back top of the burner, slightly to the left.
Two screws hold its locator, but the cell just pushes in. It’s keyed to keep it in the right place.
John

 

[Rollerball]

Thanks. So to remove the photocell I just pull it out?

Is there anything specific I should clean it with or just it just need a quick wipe with a clean rag?

 

[Burnerman]

Just gently ease it out for a clean......a wipe with a rag will do!
It has a glass end and you can see the resistive element inside.
John

 

[Rollerball]

Thanks a lot, just gave it a clean. I'll report back if the red light issue occurs again.

 

[Rollerball]

Well it's done it again - the boiler has been working fine for the past week and this morning it went into lockout again like it did eight days ago - lockout button on the TF830 control box was red again and on pressing that button the boiler fired up.

I guess it's time for the boiler repair guy to come out, or is there anything else that I can check? Tempted to get a new control box and fit it myself but of course there's no guarantee it's that so it could be a waste of money.

Just out of interest, when the system goes into lockout there is of course a slight 'hum' from the boiler - this keeps going as long as the boiler thinks it should be on but stuck in lockout. Once the button on the TF830 control box is pressed there is the usual louder sound of the burner and then ignition. Because both occurrences of the lockout have happened in the early morning (the boiler comes on at 6AM) it's been in the 'slight hum' phase for about half an hour before it's been noticed. Is this dangerous in any way?

In fact, is the lockout and the fact I have to press the button indicating a potentially dangerous fault?

Also, when I pressed the button on the TF830 today I saw a very tiny spark inside the TF830 just as ignition occurred - I assume that's normal? I think there are relays inside the TF830?

 

[Burnerman]

Obviously it's a bit difficult to diagnose - great to be there when the burner does misbehave of course!
The humming may be due to the motor trying to spin, but not able to - initially this points to the start capacitor bolted to the motor.
Another thing I have found with the B9B is the three allen screws that hold the pump and motor together....if they are out of line or overtight they can cause the motor to jam. I find that finger tight is enough as the design means the two items can't part company.
As the Tf has relays inside, I guess the odd spark is usual, across the contacts. Generally this is a very reliable unit and on the faulty ones I've seen the failure is permanent with some blackening on the inside.
John

 

[Rollerball]

Thanks for the detailed reply.

I left it running for an hour earlier with no issues, switched it off then back on a few minutes later and it was okay. However, then switched it off for over an hour and on switching it back on it had gone into lockout again. Pressing the control box button for it to fire up okay.

Is there anything that I can check when it's in lockout?

Regarding the large white capacitor on the motor, any hints and tips on the best way to test it? I was thinking of checking it with my multimeter (I also have an ESR meter). I guess it'll need to be discharged first and even disconnected from the motor?

Are there any 'dangers' from the boiler in its current state? If the slight hum is the motor trying to spin then is it being lack that going to damage it?

Finally, there's a 'box' metal cover that push fits over all of the main parts (pump, control box, flexible hoses, etc) - is there any harm in leaving that off for now? Not sure what purposes it serves but it's a pain to pull off and putting it on you need to be careful not to snag any hoses - if I'm going to have this lockout problem more often now then I'd prefer to leave off the cover until it's fixed. I do notice more of a 'sooty smell' with it removed so is it just to seal the unit?

 

[Terrywookfit]

It could also be the BFP coil Or the EB1 failing intermittently,

 

[Burnerman]

If the burner is encased in a tin box, it sounds like you have a balanced flue, bringing in combustion air from the outside.
By all means run the burner without it.
It is possible to test a capacitor with a multimeter but I haven’t done it so do check out YouTube?
Faulty capacitors can feel swollen or be black at the wire end, but that isn’t conclusive. Check the capacitor disconnected from the motor.
Oil pump solenoid coils do fail, look for an open circuit immediately the burner locks out......Diamond replacements are best.
The EBi is the igniter transformer, failure is possible and I have found that they can take out the Tf too!
Did you find the allen grub screws I was blethering about?
John