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Old hot water cylinder - would it have been Economy 7 and can you return to it?

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Hello

I have a one bedroom all-electric flat, purpose built in the 80s, and at some point I think it's had Economy 7 storage heaters. The meter is still there but the heaters were long gone. When I first bought it I recall the electrician mentioning that he'd switched the wiring from the wall sockets of the Economy 7 circuit so the sockets could be used as normal.

Would it be reasonable to assume that the immersion heater would also have been on Economy 7? Could I tell by looking at it?

It's an old vented cylinder/storage tank which now needs replacing. Given the price of fuel, I'm wondering if it would be easy enough to switch the wiring back to Economy 7 to get cheaper overnight hot water (maybe storage heaters down the line but not now). Is it a case of the electrician working at the consumer unit rather than any major re-cabling? Or would it be something the electricity company does? Thanks
 
Because the day rate is significantly higher than the night rate? Makes sense.

I see electricity suppliers offer other two-tier tariffs by time of use - presumably there's no need for two circuits these days?
 
Because the day rate is significantly higher than the night rate? Makes sense.
That's right, and it is significantly higher than the day rate without E7

I see electricity suppliers offer other two-tier tariffs by time of use - presumably there's no need for two circuits these days?
No, the whole supply changes rate.
 
pics of the meter area and consumer unit would help.

As said, day rate is more expensive, so unlikely to be better.

Are you at home all day?

Have a look at octpus tarriff to see if that could be worth it for you.
They do 2 tariffs apparently. A night rate one for car charging (which maybe use for you if getting storage heaters)
or one that changes price ever hour ( can be very cheap), but you need to be there and manually switching things I think. So when cheap you could turn the heating on, and press the hotwater, 1 hour boost button

I guess you could get a contactor for the heaters, connected to a boost timer, so you only have 1 button to press for HW and heating. and based on the price you keep the boost timer going.

Depends if you want to watch the price all day to get a good deal.

I guess you could add a normal timer to operate at night or a frost stat set at 8C,

If getting a new tank, consider one with 2 elements.
Bottom large one for cheap rate.
Top small one for expensive rate for when you only need a small amount of water.

It's quite common to have tanks with 2 elements these days, but probably not for a 1 bed place
 
Thanks AndyPRK. I'll be interested to know what you can tell from the pics.
I can see why you might want two elements - at least it gives you choice.

1732979807413.png



1732980190925.png
 
So it's got a normal meter and CU.

What going on with the black box on the right, with those red and black tails. Where do they go on the right of the pic ?
 
If you’re only going to heat water and run background appliances over night i doubt getting E7 would make sense
 
What going on with the black box on the right, with those red and black tails. Where do they go on the right of the pic ?
Might have to abandon this quest as I'm not there and can't find a better photo than this. Any good?

1732983213746.png
 
Arh maybe it's just the 4 wires into the block.

Isolator on the incomming side of the meter. Unusual. I guess that's because its a flat.
 
Iolator on the incomming side of the meter. Unusual. I guess that's because its a flat.
It's like that because someone has got it wrong, or someone else has been tampering with it for reasons unknown.
The lack of a proper cutout adjacent to the meter is also wrong.

Further investigation is required.
 
The only person to have touched it in all the time I've had it is an electrician. I despair.
 
...Isolator on the incomming side of the meter. Unusual. I guess that's because its a flat.
It's like that because someone has got it wrong, or someone else has been tampering with it for reasons unknown.
This is a very common arrangement in flats where the cutout is elsewhere.
The lack of a proper cutout adjacent to the meter is also wrong.
There is no requirement (other than isolation) for a second cutout and local isolation for a meter change is provided as is for a CU change.
Further investigation is required.
The only issues I see in the pics:
Lack of seals.

Possibly unsheathed or smaller than usual tails but without more detail I can't say and being on the DNO side it's not our concern.
 

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