Old 'leccy board meters

[prodigymad]

Hi all,

Quick question here,

Moved into my house last year and noticed that the Electric meter and main fuse box are in the pantry as would be expected. However there are 2 further old electric meters in there that appear to be defunct. If this the electric boards responsibilty to remove these or mine??

Also is it usual for the upstairs & downstairs lighting all to be on one fuse in the fusebox and for the fuse to pop when a bulb blows?

cheers in advance

 

[securespark]

They may be an off-peak meter and timeswitch....

This would have been connected (most likely) to storage heaters which are no longer in service.

Check out this possibility & get in touch with EB, as they are their property & responsibility.

Second query, Sometimes and Yes.

Often find both ground and first floor lighting on one fuse. If you are lucky, you may find two live conductors in the lighting fuse which hopefully means the circuits have been wired seperately from the off, and it is a simple task to split them up.

If this is the case and you have a spare "way" on the board, you could fit another 5A fuse and split them up.

Do you have fuses or MCB's?

Re the lamps popping off, there is a surge when they blow and this can pop the fuse or trip the mcb. Try fitting branded lamps (Osram are good) which have internal fuses, the theory being that the internal lamp fuses blow before the protective device at the board.

If you have fuses, you could always upgrade the board or at least fit plug-in mcb's (if you have a Wylex or Proteus board with fuses) An mcb will at least be easier & quicker to reset.

If you do not find it practical to split the lighting, you can safely upgrade the protective device to a 10A mcb, if this is possible.

 

[Inspector]

On the MCB thread - if you have a 10A type b (or 2) MCB you could change it to a 10A type c or d.

 

[Big_Spark]

On the MCB thread - if you have a 10A type b (or 2) MCB you could change it to a 10A type c or d.

Inspector, with respect, that is crazy. I understand it will stop the nuisance tripping of MCB's, but changing the breaker type to a motor-rated breaker is not the solution, buying good quality lamps made by Osram or Philips is the solution that should be implemented.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Is sticking type Ds into domestic lighting circuits a good idea without making sure that disconnect times will be met?

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CLARIFICATION - I typed that response before FWL, but got distracted before submitting. I later returned, hit submit, by which time it was superfluous. Sorry 'bout that..

 

[plugwash]

nothing wring with using a C type breaker provided your cable install meets the disconnect time requirements. or you have a RCD

i don't think a D type is very smart in a domestic install though

 

[Inspector]

FWL - good point but I'm sure I've read that when installing fluorescent lighting circuits its best to use type C.
Say your installing a socket in your garage for use with general arc or mig welding equipment. What MCB type would you advise.

 

[prodigymad]

I have just checked a couple of things - they are not fuses (i just couldn't think of the words Circuit Breakers. The entire lighting circuit is on a 6A MCB as far as I can see, this includes 2x 5 Halogen spotlights for the kitchen and 2 x 500w outside halogen security lights as well as normal lights in the rest of the rooms. Should i simply replace the 6A MCB with a 10A. (I take it they just pull out - after switching the master MCB off? or is there usually a master switch before this)

As for the old meters, etc, there appears to be allsorts in there (see the pic!).

.

At the bottom left there is the actual working meter ( the MCBs are to the left just off pic). The 2 meters on the top right are no longer used, they still have metal seals around the screw holes. Just above the working meter to the left is a white fuse box with a master switch on - I am thinking this is the main feed. I last box is seen below the old meters and this looks like the EB's main sealed fuses.

I think its time for the leccy board to come round! Would they charge for removing their old meters (what happens if I have changed suppliers, etc. I dont know who's they are!

 

[Big_Spark]

FWL - good point but I'm sure I've read that when installing fluorescent lighting circuits its best to use type C.
Say your installing a socket in your garage for use with general arc or mig welding equipment. What MCB type would you advise.

Inspector, this does occur in large commercial and industrial installation for most types of discharge lighting, whether Fluorescent or Low Bay Sons or Mercury. These circuits are fed via contactors, the switches operating the contactor coil, then the contactor operates thus bringing in the supply to the lights, but because of the large inrush currents that can be momentarilly induced by these circuits, it is common practice to install type C breakers for them. I have never seen a Type D used as you design the circuits such that a type D would not be required.

In small installations fluorecent lights can still be operated via small lighting contactors, such as those that are DIN rail mounted, but it is not usual for this circuit to be protected by anything more than a Type B MCB.

In domestic installations there should never be a need to install Type C or Type D MCB's onto any circuit (except perhaps a machine supply in a garage workshop). If the lamps blow the MCB, then the first recourse is to buy quality lamps, ones that incorporate fuses in their base to prevent such tripping. The MCB's should only ever be a Type B

 

[plugwash]

from what i gather if a B6 is tripping a lot on your lighting load you have two choices for changing it

a C6 or a B10

they have very similar fast trip caracteristics but the C6 is suitable for use in an existing install which does not have 10A switches

 

[Big_Spark]

from what i gather if a B6 is tripping a lot on your lighting load you have two choices for changing it

a C6 or a B10

they have very similar fast trip caracteristics but the C6 is suitable for use in an existing install which does not have 10A switches

You gather it wrong in a domestic installation.

 

[Big_Spark]

Prodigymad, one of your problems is likely to be your Circuit breakers, Protec!!!!!!!......aaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh run for the hills, the bogey breakers are here!!

Thats what I think of them anyway..unadulterated, cheap and nasty rubbish.

 

[securespark]

Yeah, FWL, I know you hate lesser brands, but this is what prod. has to work with......

Prodigy - As your lamps pop off, replace them with Osram. If you have a spare way, look at the possibility of splitting the circuits OR fit a B10 mcb.

Part number PK MCB 1102B from QVS (qvsdirect.co.uk) at £3.45 + dreaded.

FWL - you will be ecstatic to learn that PROTEK make RCBO's........

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I take it they just pull out

No they don't.

You need to remove the cover of the CU to gain access to the terminals. The output side of the MCBs will have a screw terminal for the cable, the input side will be clipped or screwed to the busbar.

 

[Big_Spark]

Yeah, FWL, I know you hate lesser brands, but this is what prod. has to work with......

Prodigy - As your lamps pop off, replace them with Osram. If you have a spare way, look at the possibility of splitting the circuits OR fit a B10 mcb.

Part number PK MCB 1102B from QVS (qvsdirect.co.uk) at £3.45 + dreaded.

FWL - you will be ecstatic to learn that PROTEK make RCBO's........

I am not a fan of some of the lesser brands, I make no bones about that, however at least many of the lesser brands have their MCB's made by a reputable company on their behalf, so whilst some of the quality may not be there, they are not of such low quality as to nuisance trip.

Unfortunately Protec are a brand not made by a large manufacturer and they are rubbish. Volex are Gods in comparison, and I think you know mt feelings about them.

I understand there is little Prod can actually do about it, short of replacing his consumer unit for a decent one. Personally I would be concerned about the condition of the rest of the installation, as far as I am aware you can only by this Protec crap from Wickes, so there is a reasonable bet it was a DIY job, although not 100% guaranteed.

If an installation has Protec kit in, then cheapness was an over-riding factor, regardless of who did the work, and that would lead me to suspect that the rest of the installation may not be up to scratch. I would be leaning to having a full inspection and test done on it.