Packing out timber stud wall

Joined
3 Mar 2026
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Country
United Kingdom
I've moved an old Victorian door from one stud wall to another in a house in the UK. Rather than faff about trying to patch repair the lath and plaster walls, I've just ripped them back to the timber frames. I have 12.5mm acoustic ply to affix. I'll get this skim coated, which I understand will only be 2-3mm thick (say 2.5mm for ease of the calculations that follow). The old Victorian door liner sits 25mm proud of the studs. I'll also reinstate the old 20mm thick architrave. 12.5mm plasterboard + 2.5mm plaster = 15mm so the liner would still be 10mm proud of this. My initial thought was just to pack a strip behind the architrave but then the frame (architrave) would appear to be 30mm deep (20mm architrave + 10mm packing strip)... which I think would look chunky and out of place. I'd have the same issue with the skirting. Is the best solution to use 9mm ply to pack out all the timber studs and noggins? If so, what type of ply (structural, non-structural, marine). This is on the bedroom side of what will be an ensuite bathroom. I'll also need to pack out the other side but using tile backer board in place of the acoustic plasterboard so same question for that. Thanks in advance!
 
Is the door liner the problem?
Just fit one the correct width.

You can get 6mm plasterboard if that helps
 
I'd like to reuse the original Victorian door liner so this door is in keeping with all the others in the house. So it looks like it was originally there.

Are you suggesting overboarding the 12.5mm plasterboard with 6mm (laid perpendicular I assume) to pack it out? Is that a better approach than just packing out the studs with plywood?
 
All our walls where I am at the moment have ply over then plasterboard.
It's offices so great to hang stuff on walls.

Whatever works
 
You could double board it, 9mm then 12.5 mm acoustic leaving 3.5mm for skim, it'll be cheaper and quicker than trying to pack each stud.
 
it'll be cheaper and quicker than trying to pack each stud.
What, lifting entire sheets of plasterboard into place and cutting some to length, twice..

Versus

asking the building shop to rip a sheet of ply into 40mm strips on their saw and nailing it onto the studs?

Latter every time for me

what type of ply
The cheapest. It’s doing nothing structurally

I'll also need to pack out the other side but using tile backer board
It’s available in varying thicknesses so you could just fit thicker board

Or, you seem to be saying you want the whole wall to be 20mm thicker; just buy 19mm slate batten and pack one side of it. Don’t slave yourself to adding 10mm to both sides of a wall because you want to fit a 20mm-too-deep door case central to the wall as it is now; make the wall 20mm thicker then fit the case central to the new thickness
 
Last edited:
What, lifting entire sheets of plasterboard into place and cutting some to length, twice..
If the OP is going to struggle to lift and cut a 9mm sheet of plasterboard then 12.5mm Accoustic which is considerably heavier will be out of the question.

Yeh, you could ask a builder depot to cut up 9mm ply for you, you'll pay through the nose for the product and then pay through the nose for the convenience of cutting it.

With a utility knife and spirit level the op could save himself a small fortune cutting 9mm plasterboard into strips.
 
then pay through the nose for cutting
BnQ do 5 cuts for free then 50p per cut; I don’t think that’s too unreasonable..



Your original post read like you were recommending to board out the whole wall with plasterboard just to pack it out a few mm, as being easier than just to pack it out with rips of wood.

Now you’re packing it out with rips of plasterboard..

Kinda confused as to what is being recommended but absent any home facility (or desire to purchase one) to rip a ply sheet into strips (a cheap circ saw with a sliding fence) having the materials shop do it isnt unreasonable, and nailing rips onto studs will be easier than boarding a wall twice

Ripping plasterboard into thin strips is possible but a bit of a pain in the ass and they’re a bit awkward to then work with in terms of being flimsy. If I was doing it I’d use my circ saw outside rather than a knife but I don’t think I’d use pb
 
Last edited:

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Back
Top