Plug holding blind up has come up?

with practice you may recognise the noise the drill makes when it hits the lintel.

However, if you examine the drill tip, you will either see grey concrete dust, or tiny shavings of steel or paint from a metal one.

You can actually use plasplugs in a steel lintel, but it might not be the best method. You have to drill a hole that will be a close fit even when the screw expands the plug. HSS drills for steel are usually black; masonry drills are usually silver.

Some steel lintels may have expanded metal welded to them so the plaster or render grips. They do not need plasterboard. IME they are prone to cracking the plaster at the ends though; I assume due to thermal expansion. Reinforced concrete lintels do not have to have plasterboard either.

I find steel lintels, properly drilled and with a long, correct-fitting screw, give the strongest and most dependable fixing. It will not come loose, even with the heaviest curtains and years of use.

I don't like hanging blinds or curtains off plasterboard, it is fundamentally weak.

So drill in with normal drill say 5.5 width and pull after a couple of cm. Look at drill bit for bits masonry dust or metal shavings to determine whether to use self tappers or sds to go further into lintel?

What your saying seems be similar to what the blinds fitters said if I remember correctly
 
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I'd normally start with a masonry bit and hammer action when going into a wall, it will not be blunted if it hits concrete. If it hits steel and stops penetrating, that's the time to change over to an HSS drill to suit your screw.

An HSS drill will be damaged if it hits brick or concrete or mortar.

A lightweight hammer (non-SDS) masonry drill will not be damaged by dense concrete, but it will be very slow to penetrate.
 
Just fill the hole and push in a plug, or

as I said in post #2 - get a bigger plug.



If you hear a turning noise while doing it, it will be Brunel in his grave.
 
I'd normally start with a masonry bit and hammer action when going into a wall, it will not be blunted if it hits concrete. If it hits steel and stops penetrating, that's the time to change over to an HSS drill to suit your screw.

An HSS drill will be damaged if it hits brick or concrete or mortar.

A lightweight hammer (non-SDS) masonry drill will not be damaged by dense concrete, but it will be very slow to penetrate.


Ok. But why go in with hammer first? Why not set it to normal drill setting with masonry bit. This might be enough if its soft material around lintel. Won't a hammer wreck the hole?
 
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drilling a wall without hammer action is very very slow.
 
drilling a wall without hammer action is very very slow.

But the best way to start until you hit brickwork. Starting on hammer can cause the drill bit to jump from your actual point of work if you are drilling to a template.
 
I would leave that hole alone and fix it in a new position
 
So all a 3 red pkugs were loose so I cut some brown one down and put screw in then hammered in. Used the same screws
 
Is this the Fisher plugs u were recommending?
DSC_0217.JPG
 
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