Plug sockets not working, but were before...

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I've just installed 2 double gang sockets as a spur off an existing socket on the ring.

I've put in a fused spur, and then run the other two sockets directly from the fused spur.

They worked before I filled the wall, but typically, they arent now.

I've tested all of the sockets and they are all getting power via the live wire when the spur in on, and not when its off, so all appears right, but for some reason when I test the sockets they dont work.

I've checked every wire and all are held firmly in place...
Oh, and I've changed the fuse for good measure...

Anyone got any thoughts as to what might be wrong!?
 
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have you checked for power before and after the switched fuse
assuming all other sockets are working normally ??
 
The original socket that i'm spurred off is still working normally, and there is power to both sockets after the switched fuse, and before

xr4x4 - can you confirm what you mean?

Thanks
 
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You said you checked the live wire, did you check the neutral?

What did you use to check?
 
I couldnt check the neutral since the only tool I have with me is one of those screwdrivers that light up...

It didnt light for the neutral...

May need to borrow my mates multimeter again, but i checked all the neutral wires and they seemed to be fitted tight...
 
OH no - I can forsee a lot of discussion about neon screwdrivers again :)
 
I couldnt check the neutral since the only tool I have with me is one of those screwdrivers that light up...
Neither use nor ornament.


Anyone got any thoughts as to what might be wrong!?
Well - basically your decision to not let your serious lack of knowledge of electrics be a bar to trying to work on them.


Carrying out electrical work without understanding it is a very bad idea. Following instructions to "put this wire in that hole" without knowing why, and without knowing how it works, is to be strongly discouraged. Given what you've said in this topic, and here you really don't have that understanding.

Yes - of course everybody has to start somewhere, but you should start by acquiring a solid foundation of knowledge, not by diving into actually doing when you don't know how it works.

Please spend some time learning how electrical circuits work, what switches do, etc, before having a go.
 
double check that the spur is wired correctly, if it is it may just be a faulty spur not switching the neutral, try swapping it maybe?
 
double check that the spur is wired correctly, if it is it may just be a faulty spur not switching the neutral, try swapping it maybe?


No chance the OP has not a clue?
DP FCU?

Blind leading the blind..............
 
Okay, firstly, I do know the basics of electrical circuitry - maybe not a great deal but enough to wire some plugs. I have an A-level in electronics which is a pretty decent founding (albeit around 10 years ago)

Secondly, you have to start somewhere - ultimately the job is done now, so why do people have to be idiots and not just attempt to help rather than throwing in insinuations of ineptitude.

I know a lot of you are probably professional electricians and rolling your eyes here, but i cant help think that this is just because ultimately you want people to believe this is harder than it is... wiring a plug is not rocket science and i've done it loads of times, and the only reason i asked about things in the previous thread is to get things right as regards to part p...

So, with my rant out the way, I will try the suggestion of switching out the spur... I'm pretty certain that it must be a disconnect on the neutral somewhere, but they all seem in correctly...
 
vaderag,
It sound very much like the neutral has come loose or at worse, if you plastered the chase back, the cable was damage but that is worst case.
So check at all the terminals for loose neutrals within the new socket, the FCU and the socket you took the feed/supply from, it could be at any of this outlets where the fault lies.
Really your ideal tool of choice regarding simple testing would a multi-meter rather than the unreliable neon screwdriver.
With the multi-meter you can not only check the voltage but also continuity and polarity and those two tests are test should be done before you go live.
 
Okay, firstly, I do know the basics of electrical circuitry - maybe not a great deal but enough to wire some plugs. I have an A-level in electronics which is a pretty decent founding (albeit around 10 years ago)
See this: //www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:lighting

It's more likely than not that you don't have a neutral at the switches, so you won't be able to connect the new light as you plan - you'll need to connect it to the lighting circuit proper.

All looks quite confusing...!
:confused:


Secondly, you have to start somewhere - ultimately the job is done now, so why do people have to be idiots and not just attempt to help rather than throwing in insinuations of ineptitude.
Who has insinuated that?

Ignorant, yes, but that's a condition which you can and must rectify.

I know a lot of you are probably professional electricians and rolling your eyes here, but i cant help think that this is just because ultimately you want people to believe this is harder than it is...
Can you explain how suggesting that you learn how things work because fiddling with them when you don't is not a good idea qualifies as wanting you to believe that it's harder than it is?

If you really believe that it is OK for you to fiddle with things which you don't understand, and what you want from this site are instructions to blindly follow as if electrical installations were like Ikea furniture, then I suggest you leave now and never return.


wiring a plug is not rocket science and i've done it loads of times
You only had 3 conductors to deal with here, but couldn't get it to work....


, and the only reason i asked about things in the previous thread is to get things right as regards to part p...
You didn't ask about that at all - you asked how to make a new light work by just connecting it to a switch. And when shown how lighting circuits work you said "All looks quite confusing".
 
, and the only reason i asked about things in the previous thread is to get things right as regards to part p...
You didn't ask about that at all - you asked how to make a new light work by just connecting it to a switch. And when shown how lighting circuits work you said "All looks quite confusing".

I can't be bothered to reply to you trolling in full - either give me something useful of go find someone else to bother, but incidentally, the "All looks quite confusing" quote was tongue in cheek. And besides, I was enquiring out of interest rather than something I was going to carry out... Also its completely irrelevant to this thread...

PrenticeBoyofDerry said:
vaderag,
It sound very much like the neutral has come loose or at worse, if you plastered the chase back, the cable was damage but that is worst case.
So check at all the terminals for loose neutrals within the new socket, the FCU and the socket you took the feed/supply from, it could be at any of this outlets where the fault lies.
Really your ideal tool of choice regarding simple testing would a multi-meter rather than the unreliable neon screwdriver.
With the multi-meter you can not only check the voltage but also continuity and polarity and those two tests are test should be done before you go live.

Thanks for the useful response Prentice, that's what I figured... I'm going to look into it a bit closer tomorrow (as out tonight)
 
Thanks for the useful response Prentice, that's what I figured... I'm going to look into it a bit closer tomorrow (as out tonight)

No worries, glad to be of assistance.
Whilst you are checking the neutral conductors, it is also important that you assure your CPC/earth cable has also got continuity, if not it is a potential danger.
Whilst the sockets will work if your line and neutral conductors are fitted correctly, you will have no evidence that the CPC/earth is continuous and that is why it is best to have a multi-meter for these tests.
 

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