Poor hot water pressure. Cant figure it out.

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houstonwehaveaproblem";p="1049031 said:
The hw output union on the top of your hw cylinder (in the centre of the dome) is furred up and constricted - this happens in time. Remove the pipe at this outlet and clean the union in situ to restore flow. Don't forget to shut off cw supply from cw storage and drain off via hw bath tap first. Be careful not to damage the cylinder when disconnecting hw outlet pipe.

Took the pipe off and the top of the immersion tank seems ok. It has a little limescale round the top but it hasnt reduced the size of the outlet hole.
 
Out of interest the other thing I have noticed is that when I bleed the pipes only a trickle of water comes out the expansion pipe.

Is this correct? I assume that the cold water should gush out the expansion pipe into the roof tank once the airlock is cleared??
 
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Best plan now is to have hw outlet replaced by a supply takng the lowest route possibe to your hw outlets (bathroom and kitchen) - any experienced plumber will immediately recognise what is wrong with your existing unorthodox arrangement/hw pipe route. The original plumber did'nt understand the basic principal of maintaining maximum head difference between supply (cw storage for hw) and outlets (taps). This is not a job you can undertake yourself. Easiest solution may be to re-pipe underfloor rather than an untidy job through the obstacles of your house structure - choices depend on the position of your hw cylinder relative to the site of bathroom and kitchen tap outlets. The above will be a permanent cure your problem. I had hoped that my previous suggestion would provide you with a quick fix. Your current hw installation is prone to airlocks and low flow. If you have hw and cw taps close to each other for a washing machine then you can connect them together with a w/machine hose and use the cw pressure to expel the air lock from the hw circuit - backfill to the cw storage tank above. Open hw tap first then open the cw tap. This technique should be carried out with great care.
 
there is no reason why this install should cause a problem with up and over dhw feed to the taps.
i have many customers with this type of install and it works perfect.
the op needs to sort out the positioning of the vent pipe with the dhw supply pipe as any air leaving the cylinder is clearly not exscaping up the vent pipe and bringing the flow to a stop.
 
Wow. I cant believe its been like this for so long and no previous owners of the house have rectified it!!

We bleed the pipework regularly but it does not improve the hot water pressure at the kitchen tap though the bathroom taps pressure improves for a short period.



Best plan now is to have hw outlet replaced by a supply takng the lowest route possibe to your hw outlets (bathroom and kitchen) - any experienced plumber will immediately recognise what is wrong with your existing unorthodox arrangement/hw pipe route. The original plumber did'nt understand the basic principal of maintaining maximum head difference between supply (cw storage for hw) and outlets (taps). This is not a job you can undertake yourself. Easiest solution may be to re-pipe underfloor rather than an untidy job through the obstacles of your house structure - choices depend on the position of your hw cylinder relative to the site of bathroom and kitchen tap outlets. The above will be a permanent cure your problem. I had hoped that my previous suggestion would provide you with a quick fix. Your current hw installation is prone to airlocks and low flow. If you have hw and cw taps close to each other for a washing machine then you can connect them together with a w/machine hose and use the cw pressure to expel the air lock from the hw circuit - backfill to the cw storage tank above. Open hw tap first then open the cw tap. This technique should be carried out with great care.
 
photo of pipework from immersion tank. You can see the bend at the bottom of photo that comes from immersion outlet.
Pipe A does not do anything. It is capped off above ceiling as you can see in next photo below



nov08%201.JPG
 
As you can see pipe A is capped off. pipe B is the cold water in pipe and pipe C is the hot water pipe and expansion pipe.


nov08%2001.JPG
 
Pipe B is cold water supply to immersion tank. Pipe C on the left is the hot water to taps pipe and Pipe C right is the expansion pipe.

nov08%2004.JPG
 
Spoke to a plumber today and he thinks tee-ing off just above the top of the immersion tank is the solution.

Anyone like to second that??
 

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