Potterton Neataheat 10-16 Electronic Boiler

[tffitch]

I Have a Potterton Neataheat 10-16 Electronic Boiler which refused to start the other day.

The fan starts and as soon as the pressure switch trips everything stops including the fan, it does not get as far as opening the gas valve.

I have removed the pressure switch and tested it with my meter. The resistance between the Brown and White wires is Zero ohms, when you trip the switch the resistance between the Brown and Orange wires is 50 ohms. I was getting an even higher reading than this, but got it lower after fiddling with contacts. I am sure it should be Zero ohms so I have ordered a new switch.

The thing that is puzzling me is that when connected to the boiler the Brown wire receives zero volts once the pressure switch has tripped, this is the same live circuit that powers the fan. This explains why the fan cuts out. My guess is that I also have a fault on the PCB.

I have read some posts here that refer to a faulty relay. Does the 10-16 Electronic model have a relay? I cant see one, but there is a black plastic cover over part of the PCB, is it under this?

Please help as we are freezing.

 

[ChrisR]

Mfrs I's are at partsarena.com/baxi

Beyond that, have to advsie you do not open the boiler case or interfere in any way with fan/switch etc because it's a dangerous boiler which has killed people.
Frozen is bad, frozen stiff is a lot worse.

 

[tffitch]

Hi Chris

Thanks for the reply. I know about the problems with Carbon Monoxide leaks from this type of boiler, I have also read the HSE report about it.

The case seals are in good condition and the backplate is not distorted in any way. I have also checked nothing is obstructing the case from seating properly against the seal.

I am a qualified engineer so I understand mechanical components and analoque electronic circuits and wiring. I need to understand the controller circuits to help me understand how it works so I can diagnose what is wrong with it.

I don't want the buy a new controller at £100+ if there is nothing wrong with it.

Please help, still freezing.

 

[tffitch]

Just to update you all.

I took the plunge and removed the PCB. Straight away I could see a burnt out solder joint. A quick clean up of the joint and some new solder and the boiler is now running perfectly.

In case anybody else has similar problems I found a company on the web that part exchange reconditioned PCB's for boilers. For this PCB model they charge £30+VAT and carriage. Their site is www.cetltd.com.

As this boiler is very old, I might be ordering a new PCB while you can still get hold of them. No harm in having a backup. It's cheaper than replacing the boiler. I know two British Gas engineers who have independently stated that the modern condensing boilers are rubbish. They also told me that not only would I have to replace my boiler if I went more modern, I would also be forced to replace all of the radiators for about a 3% efficiency gain. What a rip off.

I am now a happy bunny.

 

[gazthepottertonengineer]

i think they might be giving you duff information there as

1. you wouldnt have to replace the radiators

2.You would see approx 20-30% gains on fuel consumption

3. by fitting a reconditioned pcb you are effectively modifying the appliance which is against corgi regs especially as you dont know what they have done to the pcb they may link out safety devices etc

4. Alot of condensing boilers are proving to be very reliable as long as they are serviced and maintained properly

 

[Agile]

If you know two British Gas engineers who are quoting such rubbish to people then you should report them to their employers.

I would assume that ALL BG engineers have now done the energy efficiency course and they should not be behaving like that.

Tony