RCBO Type B Manufacturers - Any Difference?

What Rob said.

Oh and BTW, it does not necessarily make the electrician a "cheapskate".
 
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What Rob said.

Oh and BTW, it does not necessarily make the electrician a "cheapskate".

I agree. What a cynical bunch we have in here.

I guess there are a number of electricians who are making all your lives miserable with their shoddy workmanship and lack of ethics. I would point out that not everyone is out to avoid tax, rob customers and generally undertake poor quality work!

I carefully selected this electrician based on numerous recommendations from people I trust. Some of whom had had what you chaps would call a proper job (full service, parts purchased, warranty on work - oh and yes he is VAT registered).

It just happens that I was very keen to do the lions share of the renovations under his supervision and with him signing everything off at each pre-agreed milestone. I ask questions on here to learn and so that I do not come at him with millions of questions which could damage the relationship. As a result of this approach I have rewired my entire house and despite his efforts to catch me out when he checks my work, I have yet to make a single mistake or error.

So the next step of my renovations is to add RCBOs to my consumer unit in accordance with Part P, and yes we did already agree on amp ratings for the RCBOs. (I should also note that I believe that Part P indicates that I cannot touch this device and all work will be done by the electrician and not me) We will then both be spending half a day testing every socket in the house to ensure compliance and safety.

To me this guy is tailoring his approach to my requirements and I thank him for it.
 
So the next step of my renovations is to add RCBOs to my consumer unit in accordance with Part P, and yes we did already agree on amp ratings for the RCBOs. (I should also note that I believe that Part P indicates that I cannot touch this device and all work will be done by the electrician and not me) ...
Part P does not prevent anyone from doing any electrical work, provided they do it safely and, in the case of the (now very small) number of types of work that are 'notifiable', comply with the notification procedures. In the present context, the only relevant (or possibly relevant) things which could be notifiable are 'replacing a CU' and 'installing a new circuit'. Interpretation of both of those is subject to debate but, if one believes that the work doesn't come into either of those categories, then it could be done by anyone competent to do it safely (which might be you, for all I know) without any bureaucratic requirements.

Kind Regards, John
 
Part P does not prevent anyone from doing any electrical work, provided they do it safely and, in the case of the (now very small) number of types of work that are 'notifiable', comply with the notification procedures. In the present context, the only relevant (or possibly relevant) things which could be notifiable are 'replacing a CU' and 'installing a new circuit'. Interpretation of both of those is subject to debate but, if one believes that the work doesn't come into either of those categories, then it could be done by anyone competent to do it safely (which might be you, for all I know) without any bureaucratic requirements.

Kind Regards, John

Good to know, I think I will ask my electrician to talk me through the process of working with the consumer unit so that I at least know how it works etc. I like having knowledge of such things just in case!
 
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A double pole switching RCBO for example CPBR322 will cost £31.25 against for single pole switching CPBR321 from same supplier £28.53 made by CONTACTUM. So although more expensive not by that much.

537.1.2 tells us we don't need to isolate the neutral with a TN system. I would assume therefore if not a TN system then the neutral should be isolated. However other than with caravans and boats it does not say all pole so really not a requirement. But earth - neutral faults can cause more of a problem with non TN-C-S systems than with TN-C-S and the ability to switch neutral for fault finding must be an advantage.

At £2.72 difference between double and single pole may as well fit double pole with TT systems. Not sure why there are no 10A double pole RCBO's listed seems made in all the other values.

Do note although these units switch the neutral there is no overload detection on the neutral so not the same as the double width units.
 
A double pole switching RCBO for example CPBR322 will cost £31.25 against for single pole switching CPBR321 from same supplier £28.53 made by CONTACTUM. So although more expensive not by that much.
Fair enough, but with most brands the price difference is far greater, and the DP ones much more difficult (or impossible) to find. I'm also not sure how many manufacturer's make single-width ones.
537.1.2 tells us we don't need to isolate the neutral with a TN system. I would assume therefore if not a TN system then the neutral should be isolated.
Yes - but as I said before, that's isolation,and that can be achieved with a Main Switch. AFAIAA, there is no requirement for a protective device to switch neutral.
However other than with caravans and boats it does not say all pole so really not a requirement.
I don't really understand that - it's 'all live pole'. Do you mean it doesn't switch/isolate the CPC (which would surely be non-compliant)?
But earth - neutral faults can cause more of a problem with non TN-C-S systems than with TN-C-S and the ability to switch neutral for fault finding must be an advantage.
I agree that is one advantage, but it is a pretty small one - particular with those makes for which the cost of DP RCBOs is high.
Do note although these units switch the neutral there is no overload detection on the neutral so not the same as the double width units.
If that's true, it makes some sense, given the lack of space. I don't see it as a significant problem - if enough current is flowing in the neutral that one would want the overload part to trip, there surely would be the same current in the corresponding L - or, if you're going to postulate an incredibly unlikely cross-circuit fault, in the L of some other protective device?

Kind Regards, John
 
JohnW2";p="3090350 said:
Do note although these units switch the neutral there is no overload detection on the neutral so not the same as the double width units.
If that's true, it makes some sense, given the lack of space. I don't see it as a significant problem - if enough current is flowing in the neutral that one would want the overload part to trip, there surely would be the same current in the corresponding L - or, if you're going to postulate an incredibly unlikely cross-circuit fault, in the L of some other protective device?

Kind Regards, John
If the neutral was taking return from other device then the RCD part of the unit would cause it to trip so in real terms impossible to get overload on neutral which is not also on the line.

The question was are all RCBO's the same and my answer was to show even from same manufacturer they are not the same. There as many options. We tend to always fit type AC and I know with a caravan and boat I had problems getting a type A when they were using a simulated sine wave inverter.

I see nothing wrong with the owner buying the parts but think it's really down to the electrician to stipulate what is required.

I was surprised that in my mothers house the RCBO's supplying the kitchen have never tripped. Yet my RCD's have series of trips then a time of no tripping clearly technology has progressed since when mine were fitted some 25 years ago. With the exception of X-Pole most RCD's do not tell you how good they are at rejecting unwanted tripping and I am sure other electricians have like myself tested a RCD with a RCD tester and it has passed but still seems to trip on a regular basis but swapping it has cured the problem.

OK my tester is 1/2, full, and 5 times with no ramp but bitter experience has shown me it's not always down to tangible reasons why a RCD trips. I have many times gone to reset one of the pair of RCD's in my house without first switching off all MCB's and the action has tripped the other one of the pair. Without an oscilloscope and the like it would be near impossible to compare RCD's but in the main it's not the domestic electrician who will realise what makes are good and which cause problems as once fitted we walk away. The industrial electrician however does see how often RCD's trip but will in the main use more robust units single width units are not used that much in industry.

So very likely there are very few who can really say which makes cause the least problems. As electricians we are more interested in which boards are easy to work with. We will be more likely to select a make which will allow things like locking off. I know I have selected makes because we already have the lock off clips in our tool box don't want to carry multi-makes of lock off devices. I also for same reason looked for consumer units with lockable lids. In domestic I would think this is not really an issue.

At one firm two makes were used one for when we were happy for fitters to be able to open and re-set another for electricians only.

All these would not be valid reasons to select with domestic.
 
If the neutral was taking return from other device then the RCD part of the unit would cause it to trip so in real terms impossible to get overload on neutral which is not also on the line.
That's a good point - which seemingly makes it even less worthwhile to go to the effort and cost of including overload sensing on N as well as L (if, as you say, that's what the 2-module DP RCBOs do).
I was surprised that in my mothers house the RCBO's supplying the kitchen have never tripped. Yet my RCD's have series of trips then a time of no tripping clearly technology has progressed since when mine were fitted some 25 years ago.
That may be a factor, but presumably another is that an RCD usually covers multiple circuit, so may have quite an appreciable 'background' L-N imbalance (due to L-E 'leaks in various loads) - hence making it more likely that 'spontaneous' nuisance trips will occur?

Kind Regards, John
 
I agree with John. Rcds would have much more background leakage moving the trip threshold.

I find it hard to believe 2 width rcbos also contain a neutral MCB.
I would love to see some proof of this.

I think you would struggle to fit it all in and be pointless.

I know they have two linked switches on the front but I think one is for the MCB part and other rcd
 
I agree with John. Rcds would have much more background leakage moving the trip threshold. ... I find it hard to believe 2 width rcbos also contain a neutral MCB. ... I would love to see some proof of this. ... I think you would struggle to fit it all in and be pointless.
I agree - particularly if the suggestion is that there are both thermal and magnetic overload mechanisms on the neutral. ... and, as you say, pointless.

I suppose that, at least in theory, there would (just about) be an argument for neutral overload sensing on a DP MCB - since there would be no built-in RCD functionality to sense the imbalance should an overload current in the N be going through some other MCB's L (an incredibly unlikely scenario). If the 'other device' was of a rating no greater than that of the one with the neutral current, the 'other device' would operate, anyway - but I suppose it could theoretically have a higher rating, and hence not operate!! However, I suspect that being struck by lighting may well be more probable than that scenario!

Kindest Regards, John
 
since there would be no built-in RCD functionality to sense the imbalance should an overload current in the N be going through some other MCB's L (an incredibly unlikely scenario).
A neutral shorted to a solid ( ie very low impedance ) ground could be taking a large part of the installation's total neutral current from the neutral bus bar back to the sub station. A 1mm lighting cable could get quite hot if there was an electric heater shower in use.

So un=likely it is not worth protecting against.
 
since there would be no built-in RCD functionality to sense the imbalance should an overload current in the N be going through some other MCB's L (an incredibly unlikely scenario).
A neutral shorted to a solid ( ie very low impedance ) ground could be taking a large part of the installation's total neutral current from the neutral bus bar back to the sub station. A 1mm lighting cable could get quite hot if there was an electric heater shower in use.
Theoretically true, but to have a path, via earth, back to the transformer of considerably less impedance than the supplier's neutral conductor would surely be next-to-impossible - the earth electrode at the transformer would, alone, usually have a higher impedance than the neutral supply conductor. Indeed, even the 1mm² conductor of a lighting cable you postulate would probably have an impedance greater than that of the supply neutral! It's only really in the infamous, and very rare, case of a 'lost supply neutral' that such a scenario would seem realistic - and the chances of that situation arising at the same time as your very low impedance fault between a neutral and true earth would surely be of 'vanishingly small' probability.
So un=likely it is not worth protecting against.
Very much so!

Kind Regards, John ²
 
I am old enough to remember when the water supply network was all metal and the sub-station neutral was often bonded to the water mains.

Now that was a low impedance path.
 
I am old enough to remember when the water supply network was all metal and the sub-station neutral was often bonded to the water mains. Now that was a low impedance path.
I'm also old enough to remember when the water supply network was all metal, but I wouldn't know whether substations were 'bonded' to it!

Kind Regards, John
 

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