Re-sealing a kitchen sink: what to use?

17 Feb 2010
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United Kingdom
I have a new steel kitchen sink in a new laminate worktop, two months old and the sealing strip around it is coming away already. I want to get something to patch the gaps in the sealing strip as it progressively comes away - what though?

The worktop is black, the sink stainless steel, and the sealing strip is clear. I think clear sealant is best here. I'm no use with a sealant gun but I would do my best. Since the sealing strip hasn't lasted - only along the most-cleaned edge though, the other 3 edges are OK - I thought Bostik clear glue might work instead, just squeeze it out of the tube. Or Bostik Clear Waterproof Leak Repair Sealant, an outdoor compound, cheap enough, needs a gun. Or clear PVA glue.

The initial job would need only about 10-20ml of sealant. If I got a 290ml cylinder (of the Bostik for example) would it cure in the cylinder if I left the remainder? I'm sure I need something I can re-apply occasionally.
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Get the installer back they can take out the sink and reseal with silicon to stop moisture getting into the worktop.

Or was the fitting of the sink a DIY Job
No Nonsense clear silicone from Screwfix or BNQ works wonders. Only cut the nib from the very top so you only get a small hole and anice clean bead of silicone. Smooth down by dipping your finger in soapy water, then running it along the bead of silicone. gives a lovely smooth finish.
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Sealant should be under the sink rim not just round it. Also the cut out edge should be sealed too.

To get a decent silicone seal finish takes practise.
It was a professional job. Here is a photo of what I mean. Maybe it doesn't look professional, I wouldn't know.
It does look like sellotape,maybe something to do with marking out and cutting the worktop hole.
You may be confusing the sellotape as a sealer, its more than likely the sellotape was used as a marker to cut out the worktop hole, the interior edging of the worktop hole should be covered in silicon and a silicon bead under neath the the lip of the sink top all round should ensure its watertight
Actually, it's not sticky tape - it's very stretchy and not really sticky. Looking at a piece of it, it looks like it was attached to the sink to begin with, then pressed down onto the worktop. The same stuff is around the glass ceramic hob, installed at the same time.
He has gone around hob and sink with clear silicone by the looks of it
It never holds and peels of like that when cleaned
Yes as per the PPs, needs lifting up and sealing underneath. The last thing you want is water getting to your chipboard worktop core so you're right to be concerned.
Ideally you can seal in the exposed edges of the chipboard while you're at it.
I looked again - it looks extruded from a nozzle and pressed flat. It doesn't actually look like it was attached to the sink to begin with. The edges of the chipboard aren't sealed either.

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