Replace Consumer Unit (photo included!)

[tim_s_uk]

When we moved into our house a few years ago, the surveyor commented that the electrics "could do with modernisation". The sockets are surface mounted on the skirting board, and there are 6 single sockets for the whole 3 bedroom house . Here’s a photo of the existing circuit fuses (click photo for larger image):



I’d like to replace the existing collection shown in the photo with a split rail consumer unit, and I also want to split the ring main into upstairs, downstairs and kitchen. I’ve submitted a building notice to South Gloucestershire building control and they’ve told me that they can’t inspect the work themselves, and I must arrange for a suitably qualified electrician to carry out an inspection and issue a certificate. They tried to put me off doing things properly by charging me £120, but I wasn’t deterred. A few questions:

1) The result I’m after is a BS7671. Is this suitable to keep the next surveyor happy?
2) Can I expect building control to pay for any part of the inspection, or was most of the £120 just Part-P tax. (ok, that was the last time ).

I’ve arranged for a local NAPIT registered electrician to drop by on Monday and discuss how I should do things so that they pass his inspection. I’ll be doing whatever he requires, but I thought I should put together some plans first. Any comments on the following:

3) I’ve contacted Western Power Distribution and arranged for the service head fuse to be replaced with a modern 80 amp unit.
4) I’ve also asked them to install an isolator after the meter so they don’t have to come out again. How should this be added (see photo)? Between the meter and the original Henley block?
5) I’d like to put the new CU above head height, requiring 2 metre tails, which is OK with WPD. Is PVC trunking suitable for 16mm tails and earth?
6) The earth bonding needs updating. I’m thinking of connecting the existing TN-S earth on the incoming sheath to a terminal block, and adding wires to the water and gas pipes, and the new consumer unit. Is 10mm earth cable OK for this, or should I get some 16mm earth?

Any comments on these questions gratefully received. I’ve been reading these forums for the last couple of weeks while I put some plans together, and you guys seem generally hospitable to DIY electricians.

 

[JohnD]

...4) I’ve also asked them to install an isolator after the meter so they don’t have to come out again. How should this be added (see photo)? Between the meter and the original Henley block?

the isolator should be directly after the meter. Find out if they are going to supply it. If not, I suggest you buy and fit a 100A DP isolator in insulated enclosure with a pair of 25mm tails fitted on the supply side, long enough to reach with ease to the meter. If need be you or your electrician can fit tails from the Henley to the Load side of the isolator afterwards. Left to themselves they may reuse the old tails.

...6) The earth bonding needs updating. I’m thinking of connecting the existing TN-S earth on the incoming sheath to a terminal block, and adding wires to the water and gas pipes, and the new consumer unit. Is 10mm earth cable OK for this, or should I get some 16mm earth?

If they are going to change the service head, ask them to provide you with a new earth point too (tell them the existing earth is by a cable sheath clamp). Provide and fix an 8-way earth block with a 16m G&Y long enough to reach the service head with ease, otherwise they may connect your old green wire and seal the terminal.

p.s. If I were you I would not put the CU out of reach. There might one day be a person who is not very tall, or is injured or disabled or old, or has no ladder handy and climbs on an unsteady chair. That person might or might not be you.

p.p.s. RCBOs are great if you can afford them, and superior to a split-load installation.

p.p.p.s. you might consider replacing all those scraps of wood with a new back-board in laminated chipboard. You can space it off the wall with soft-drink bottle-tops by drilling screw-holes in them. Your own stuff must not be on the same board as the company stuff.

 

[bigzed]

I’ve submitted a building notice to South Gloucestershire building control and they’ve told me that they can’t inspect the work themselves, and I must arrange for a suitably qualified electrician to carry out an inspection and issue a certificate.

I can't find the post atm ( typical ) but I've read on here that the council can't make you pay for getting a contracted electrician in to do the inspection. I think it was a post by BAS.

<edit> FOUND IT HERE

It is actually in the wiki. I think BAS might have referred to it in another thread.

DAMN !! BAS beat me to it

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I’ve submitted a building notice to South Gloucestershire building control and they’ve told me that they can’t inspect the work themselves, and I must arrange for a suitably qualified electrician to carry out an inspection and issue a certificate.

Tell them, with whatever level of diplomacy you think is appropriate, to ******

You are paying them a fee - they are responsible for checking your work for compliance and for issuing a Building Regulations certificate. If they can't inspect and test themselves then that is their problem, not yours, and they have to subcontract it, and pay for it, themselves.

They may not charge you extra, and they may not make you pay for an electrician yourself.

1) The result I’m after is a BS7671. Is this suitable to keep the next surveyor happy?

The electrical work should have an EIC certifying compliance with BS7671. For a CU replacement this is non-trivial.

You must also end up with a certificate showing compliance with the Building Regulations. Future purchasers and their surveyors, solicitors etc will expect there to be one.

2) Can I expect building control to pay for any part of the inspection, or was most of the £120 just Part-P tax. (ok, that was the last time ).

See above - they must pay for all of it, and arrange it themselves.

I’ve arranged for a local NAPIT registered electrician to drop by on Monday and discuss how I should do things so that they pass his inspection.

LABC will not pay for his consultancy time. If you need such advice because you don't know enough to get it right then that will be down to you to fund.

 

[Grinning Grandad]

I changed a CU and informed the LABC (£94). When they found out I was qualified to 16th edition they asked if I would send them a copy of the EIC on completion. I just happened to be at the house where the work was done when a council inspector turned up unannounced. He didn't seem to know the reason he was there but had a vague recollection of seeing my EIC and wanted to see my qualifications which allowed me to complete it. I told him I didn't have them on me as I didn't know he was coming! He then said he needed to see the work so he looked at the CU for 10 seconds, said 'that looks fine' and said the completion certificate will be in the post. Didn't check I was qualified, didn't check my work. What a waste of time & money. The other options? break the law by not notifying or register?

 

[tim_s_uk]

Thanks for the quick replies.

They may not charge you extra, and they may not make you pay for an electrician yourself.

I remember reading the bit about the LABC paying for a certificate on the TWiki. I was under the impression that I can do the work myself, but I must pay for the electrician to issue an EIC (to BS7671). The LABC will then issue a certificate of completion, indicating that the work meets building regulations (given that the work has the appropriate EIC).

From what you've said, I should be able to get the LABC to pay for the electrician's inspection, although I guess they can choose who does this. I'll ask them, tactfully at first...

I'm happy to pay for consultancy if it means I get it right first time. It makes sense to me to get the same electrician to provide this and carry out the inspection, if I can. I'd like to do as much of this myself, even if it doesn't save much money.

If I were you I would not put the CU out of reach.

Good point. My 2 year old son recently discovered that playing with the switches made all the lights go out, hence my thinking to put the CU out of reach. On reflection shoulder height should be fine. I'm sure I'll have more questions in this area...

Ask them to provide you with a new earth point too

Do you mean a PME? I'll phone them up and ask them. If they provide a PME, should it still be bonded to the cable sheath?

You might consider replacing all those scraps of wood with a new back-board in laminated chipboard

This sounds like a good idea. I guess I would want the service head, meter and 100A isolator on a single board. How do I arrange moving the meter and service head onto the new board? Do you think the distribution company's sparky will be happy to do this when he takes the old service head off? I can put the mountings on the wall ready.

 

[Click-Sure]

Depends how much electrical work you do, if youre a small gang that builds houses and you only wire up one or two a year then its cheaper to notify the LABC, if your doing electrical work all the time then its more cost effecctive to register witha competant persons scheme, the penalties for non-complince with Part P are only going to get stiffer with time, like they did with gas.

*takes deep breath*

 

[JohnD]

Do you mean a PME? I'll phone them up and ask them. If they provide a PME, should it still be bonded to the cable sheath?

It will quite likely be PME, but it doesn't have to be. PME is not bonded to the sheath. A Supplier's earth is going to be reliable and good quality
(usual disclaimers apply)

 

[Cartboy52]

I'm in the process of doing a similar thing. My LABC initially said the same as yours, but when I pointed out that they must pay for the inspection, they backed down and agreed. Aparently no-one had ever challenged them before and mine was only the 3rd building notice they had ever received for electrics!

Quote the paragraph in the part P document at them, showing they must inspect the works for you at their expense.

 

[tim_s_uk]

Thanks for sharing the experiences. I guess my LABC haven't had many applications of this type either.

I've received acknowledgement of my building notice, and they ask for inspections at the following stages: Excavation, Concrete, Damp proof, Preparation, Structural, Drainage and Completion. I figure that they don't have the appropriate paper work for inspecting DIY electrical work.

When they e-mailed me before I sent in the application, they said I needed to arrange for the electrical inspection. They didn't say I needed to pay for it, so I've e-mailed them again explaining that I'm expecting them to pay for the inspection. I'll let you know the response.

I've arranged a date to have the service head replaced. I'll post another picture for the 'before' and 'after' shots.

Thanks again for the advice.

 

[securespark]

[You can space it off the wall with soft-drink bottle-tops by drilling screw-holes in them.

Hey folks, you can tell John watched all of Valerie Singleton's creations taking shape!!

 

[RF Lighting]

Valerie who?

 

[JohnD]

I didn't get home from school in time.

 

[securespark]

Valerie who?

Was Konnie Huq more your generation?

 

[RF Lighting]

Katy Hill