Replace two blockwork partywall with stud on first floor.

[Jonny Vee]

One more stupid question. Drywall screw for ceiling and wall. How long need to be?

Are these any good? 3.5x38mm? or need longer

https://www.toolstation.com/drywall-black-phosphate-phillips-screw/p28800

Thanks

 

[noseall]

Can I ask why you wouldn't use thunderbolts or equivalent?

I thought 'frame fixings' were the fully sleeved long fellas with the pants head on them?

Anyhoo, fully threaded 'concrete screws' are not the best to use especially if you need to pull the work up tight to the recipient surface - because of full thread. It is for this same reason that they are ideal for window fitters.

 

[garyo]

Are you talking about these one?

I was talking about these : https://www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive-countersunk-concrete-screws-7-5-x-150mm-100-pack/7465h

Like Noseall says - they don't pull up tight though so not ideal for all situations.

I've found the frame fixings always seem to be flimsy and made of cheese by comparison.

 

[Jonny Vee]

I was talking about these : https://www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive-countersunk-concrete-screws-7-5-x-150mm-100-pack/7465h

Like Noseall says - they don't pull up tight though so not ideal for all situations.

I've found the frame fixings always seem to be flimsy and made of cheese by comparison.

Link is not working at the moment due to product unavailability.

 

[Jonny Vee]

Another question.

Structure opening? How much gap you leave on both side and how much on the top?

Don't have doors yet as everything is shut down but the most common size should be 686x1981 and 762x1981. If I start building the frame please advise on the overall size.

Thanks

 

[noseall]

Another question.

Structure opening? How much gap you leave on both side and how much on the top?

Don't have doors yet as everything is shut down but the most common size should be 686x1981 and 762x1981. If I start building the frame please advise on the overall size.

Thanks

Timber-timber width opening size should be 50mm bigger than the door. This will give you some wriggle room. Use the straightest studs for the door lining uprights. Take extra care plumbing these up. Fix the hinge side of the casing to one stud then use packers on the other. Assemble the casing with the hinge cut-outs and the latch cut-outs in mind (knotts). We always fix the header timber after the casing has been fitted WITH THE CASING HEAD LEVEL! We lift the header timber about 25mm above the casing header in case we need to raise the casing for whatever reason.
​

 

[23vc]

Like Noseall says - they don't pull up tight though so not ideal for all situations.

what do we mean by this? Can’t visualise and I use the full threadeds a lot for timber to masonry without issue or so I thought - the head disappears into the timber as much as you like, are we saying the timber then doesn’t get pulled any closer in because the whole lot is bound to the same thread? Never crossed my mind

 

[noseall]

what do we mean by this?

I'm referring to concrete screws. If say the timber is slightly bowed out from the wall in the middle, then a plug and screw will pull it in. Concrete screws wont and you'd need extra effort trying to push it back against the wall, prior to fitting the conc' screw.

 

[garyo]

I'm referring to concrete screws. If say the timber is slightly bowed out from the wall in the middle, then a plug and screw will pull it in. Concrete screws wont and you'd need extra effort trying to push it back against the wall, prior to fitting the conc' screw.

For me they pull up to a degree, but obs if it's too easy then there's a point where that means that the hole in your timber is too large, because their heads are only a couple of mill larger than their threaded body.

 

[noseall]

For me they pull up to a degree, but obs if it's too easy then there's a point where that means that the hole in your timber is too large, because their heads are only a couple of mill larger than their threaded body.

I'm not knocking them per se, rather they are not the best for fixing timber to a wall under certain circumstances.
As UPVC frame fixers they are an absolute boon and have incredible pull-out resistance.

EDIT: They are also brilliant where expansion can cause trouble like when fixing into a concrete post for instance.

 

[Jonny Vee]

I'd use brown plugs and 100mm 5's or 6's, depending on the masonry. Drill 7mm holes straight through the timber into the masonry.

Noseall,

Is the 6mm plug strong enough? Got few in front of me and they seem very small. If you used the wall plug do you use the same timber screw you used for the stud?

I used this one https://www.toolstation.com/forgefast-multi-purpose-self-drilling-wood-screw/p66227 for the framework

What about the TORX one like this one https://www.toolstation.com/masonry-torx-frame-fixing-screw/p39995

Thanks

 

[noseall]

Noseall,

Is the 6mm plug strong enough?

I either use red (very rare) or brown plugs. Not sure what a 6mm is sorry.

Drill a 7mm hole (take the drill off hammer if they are soft friable blocks etc) and fully screw a 100mm, 5 into the plug. They take some pulling out. Times that by 5 and you will see what I mean.

 

[Jonny Vee]

I either use red (very rare) or brown plugs. Not sure what a 6mm is sorry.

Drill a 7mm hole (take the drill off hammer if they are soft friable blocks etc) and fully screw a 100mm, 5 into the plug. They take some pulling out. Times that by 5 and you will see what I mean.

Red plug is a 6mm size and brown is a 7mm size.

Can I use this https://www.toolstation.com/fischer...5LzHA8xBpR_CuU29MYGQLNMYDx3VPOR0aAki-EALw_wcB and screw a 5x100mm into the plug? If works I'm going for it

 

[noseall]

Red plug is a 6mm size and brown is a 7mm size.

Can I use this https://www.toolstation.com/fischer...5LzHA8xBpR_CuU29MYGQLNMYDx3VPOR0aAki-EALw_wcB and screw a 5x100mm into the plug? If works I'm going for it

Yes although I prefer his brown mate (scroll down). the trouble with those plugs are they are a but less rigid and can fold up rather than knock through, as opposed to their more ridged mates.

All do a similar job though.

 

[Jonny Vee]

Yes although I prefer his brown mate (scroll down). the trouble with those plugs are they are a but less rigid and can fold up rather than knock through, as opposed to their more ridged mates.

All do a similar job though.

Do you talk about this one https://www.toolstation.com/wall-plug/p76808

Well they are even cheaper

My only question was if the 5x100mm was to think to have a good grip considering these plug are 7mm and there was a need to go for a 6x100 screw which is also expensive and they do not sell small boxes.

Thanks

By the way, I managed to found some C24 2X4 and will crack on in the next few days. The only doubts is that few pieces are very heavy and few are very light. I don't think they are dry enough. is this a common issue?