Replace two blockwork partywall with stud on first floor.

[noseall]

Do you talk about this one https://www.toolstation.com/wall-plug/p76808

That's the fellas.

few pieces are very heavy and few are very light. I don't think they are dry enough. is this a common

Trés common.​

 

[John D v2.0]

if you're using fully threaded screws and you want to pull things tight, quickest solution is drill a clearance hole (same as the stated screw diameter) in the wood. I do that all the time, works perfectly as most of my screws have too much thread for most purposes. The only screws I use often that I don't need to are the 60mm 5s I got from wickes for screwing down plywood floor sheets which is necessary for time saving.
Also if you really need to pull things tight then you need a non countersink, but you obviously don't get a flush surface .

 

[Jonny Vee]

Removed the old blockwork and now I have few home where block was meeting the external wall. See photos

How do you make good there?

 

[noseall]

How do you make good there?

Remove any old mortar and any remnants of masonry that are proud beyond the original wall.

Patch up the deep bits with bonding coat, PVA (or blugrit) then skim up. A lot will depend upon which is the proudest plaster finish and how you deal with that window reveal regards having to feather-in.

 

[Jonny Vee]

Remove any old mortar and any remnants of masonry that are proud beyond the original wall.

Patch up the deep bits with bonding coat, PVA (or blugrit) then skim up. A lot will depend upon which is the proudest plaster finish and how you deal with that window reveal regards having to feather-in.

Maybe I haven`t express myself. On the external wall there are few holes left from the blockwork I removed. My idea is to fill in with some half brick and mortar as this is the same place where the new stud wall be screwed in.

Do I have to plaster the wall or can just stick the first stud directly to the brick face?

I was also checking the overrall wall build up with a 95 stud and 12.5+.12,5 board with a total of 120mm. Where I will have tiles would be fine considering the door frame is 133mm width. But what about on the other room where I will only have 120mm? The frame will be 13mm wider? How you usually deal with that considering the door frame are standard size.

Thanks

 

[noseall]

On the external wall there are few holes left from the blockwork I removed. My idea is to fill in with some half brick and mortar as this is the same place where the new stud wall be screwed in.

Excellent. Careful you don't lose too much gear down the cavity (?).

Do I have to plaster the wall or can just stick the first stud directly to the brick face?

​

No need to plaster, no. As long as you have enough meat left on the upright to fix the boards to.

I was also checking the overrall wall build up with a 95 stud and 12.5+.12,5 board with a total of 120mm. Where I will have tiles would be fine considering the door frame is 133mm width. But what about on the other room where I will only have 120mm? The frame will be 13mm wider? How you usually deal with that considering the door frame are standard size.

The annoying thing about regularised timber is the loss in thickness. In the olden days, rough sawn timber was nigh on 4" so the door casings reflected that. Now they are a lot less but the casings are still the same. Just lay on more plaster.​

 

[John D v2.0]

First door lining i did was (still is) a mess because i bought the nearest timber from Wickes to the existing wall. Turns out slightly bigger is better than slightly smaller.
Second one i had discovered circular saws and planes so i ripped down a standard door lining to the right width.
Third one i discovered selco had the right width off the shelf.
So if the third way doesn't work you can always try the second. Good luck!

 

[Jonny Vee]

On ceiling side, Would you remove the old laths and plaster to attached the horizontal stud directly underneath the joist or can leave the ceiling as is and just goes on it?

 

[Jonny Vee]

Excellent. Careful you don't lose too much gear down the cavity (?).

​

No need to plaster, no. As long as you have enough meat left on the upright to fix the boards to.

The annoying thing about regularised timber is the loss in thickness. In the olden days, rough sawn timber was nigh on 4" so the door casings reflected that. Now they are a lot less but the casings are still the same. Just lay on more plaster.​

Noiseall, I saw your expertise on roof questions as well.

Would you mind to have a look at my roof and advise if the joisst and binders are part of the roof structure or can be removed.

I have attached link of my post

https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/...sses-to-introduce-a-beam.542861/#post-4621112

Thanks