Replacing inbuilt oven nightmare

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Hi, sons old inbuilt oven packed up and I said I’d help him for a new one.

What I wasn’t expecting is for it to be wired into a junction box that has a cable connected to somewhere that isn’t even 2.5mm, looks more like lightning cable.

Looking at the fuse box there is a thick cable not sure if it’s 4mm or 6mm but it has a 20amp fuse.

After a bit of investigation I’ve found where this enters the kitchen, it has two 13amp double sockets badly taken off it, one is being used for the washing machine, the other is a general socket above the worktop.

Why is nothing simple

Here’s pics of the current oven model, the cooker junction box and the junction box on the wall that has the double socket coming off it
 

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So the oven and the two sockets are effectively on a 20A radial.

How many Watts is the oven?
 
Can't tell from that label what rating the oven is. Is there another label on the front by the door?

1.5mm² T&E has a maximum current carrying capacity of 20A.
 
Can't tell from that label what rating the oven is. Is there another label on the front by the door?

1.5mm² T&E has a maximum current carrying capacity of 20A.

Currently the 1.5 T&E goes from the round junction box at the back of the kitchen unit to somewhere, can’t really tell without removing all the units.

The plate on the wall that has the thick 4 mm cable to it, has 1 cable coming into a double socket that the washing Maschine is plugged into, and there’s a cable coming from that double socket to another double socket above the worktop.

If the 1.5 T&E can handle 20 amps and I buy a new built in oven that can plug into a normal socket, then wiring that into the existing junction box with the 1.5 T&E shouldn’t be a problem?

Many thanks
 
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So the sockets in your pic are on a 20 amp circuit ,and the junction box is on another circuit marked kitchen sockets ,what amperage is the over current protective device on that circuit ?
 
If I buy a replacement oven that comes with a 3 pin plug and is designed just to plug into a normal socket, can I just change the junction box with the 1.5 T&E going into it into a single socket, then just plug my oven in?

Scenario 2: If I also wanted to get rid of the gas hob, I can also buy hobs with plugs on designed to plug into a normal 13 amp socket.

If I wanted to go that route, if I replace the 1.5 T&E with 2.5 T&E and put a double socket on, can both the hob and oven be plugged in and work safely? Or am I going to find that if I have the oven on, a couple of saucepans boiling away and someone sticks the kettle on, it trips the fuse?

Many thanks
 
Thanks all. Am leaving gas hob in for now, changed the junction box for a socket.
 
Scenario 2: If I also wanted to get rid of the gas hob, I can also buy hobs with plugs on designed to plug into a normal 13 amp socket.

Just bear in mind that 13A hobs will limited in comparison to gas or a full-power electric hob [so that they can only draw 13A].
 
Thanks, he’s getting the kitchen redone either later this year or next year so will either hat a new gas hob then, or get an electrician to put in proper cooker sockets

Thanks everyone
 
If I buy a replacement oven that comes with a 3 pin plug and is designed just to plug into a normal socket, can I just change the junction box with the 1.5 T&E going into it into a single socket, then just plug my oven in?
From the point-of-view of the cable, that would be fine - since, as has been said, 1.5mm² cable is easily man enough to carry 13A (the maximum possible if the oven comes with a plug.

Kind Regards, John
 

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