Repositioning control unit

[Matt789]

Thanks in advance helpful people
I'm having to move a cooker point to an adjacent wall - i currently have the floors up above the kitchen where all the elec feeds are coming from, i'm unsure of the diameter for the core used to the existing control unit but assuming it must be either 4 or 6mm2, the question is how can i safely extend it?

I'm guessing rather than pull all the existing cable out from the plaster to then extend from, a professional would simply cut from the joists above, fit a suitable junction box, then use 6mm2 to be on the safe side..?

Any advice appreciated

 

[davelx]

You can determine the size of the cable by measuring the diameter of one strand with a vernier gauge and applying some year 5 maths.

A professional would almost certainly replace the entire length of cable since:

a) you cannot put a junction box where is is not accessible for inspection and testing in the future

b) depending on the length of the cable, the extended cable may exceed voltage drop requirements and thus a larger cable may be needed for the entire run.

If a concealed joint has to be made, then crimping or soldering, plus an appropriate enclosure or heat shrink covering, could be use. But the best solution is to replace the full run.

 

[Matt789]

thanks for the prompt reply dave, just cpl of questions if i can..

I'm taking up and replacing the floors room by room so as it stands there is no free run to the consumer unit, this would be more of an upheaval as all the floor will have to come up in one go, but if its the only way guess that's how it has to be - are we saying that to do anything else doesn't bear thinking about?

If i gouged out all plaster to the consumer unit so all was good to go and the guy just had to lay the cable, how much should i expect to pay? say for 6mm core

Or could it still pay for me to do it - after reading about LABC notifications and a fee it seems a close call - thanks

 

[Matt789]

Oh sorry, including your latter work around - would that be something i could do or if a professional had to do it, for work and materials used would it essentially be as expensive as replacing the lot - should tell you roughly how much cable would be needed really hey.. i would say about approx 13.5 m
thanks again

 

[wingcoax]

Personally i would go for 10.00mm t&e, the price is not that much more than 6.0mm and you would future proof for later more powerful cookers.

 

[Matt789]

thanks wingcoax - so best move would be to replace and do the LABC submission myself you think, on the condition i aren't a total numpty

 

[bongos]

so best move would be to replace and do the LABC submission myself

But the cheapest will proabably be to use an electrician that can self certify.

 

[Matt789]

that was my suspicion in an earlier post ta bongos, however not getting the same people come back to me - at least not yet

I know i can get more 6mm than i need for £30 does this mean i could expect a pro to do it for £100 or less?
I can't imagine the LABC submission to be more than £70, more likely to be less really

 

[Johnmelad502]

that was my suspicion in an earlier post ta bongos, however not getting the same people come back to me - at least not yet

I know i can get more 6mm than i need for £30 does this mean i could expect a pro to do it for £100 or less?
I can't imagine the LABC submission to be more than £70, more likely to be less really

10mm t&e, as suggested earlier.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I can't imagine the LABC submission to be more than £70, more likely to be less really

 

[Matt789]

Sure - I'm more than willing to take experienced advice as gospel.. but where possible i'm trying to keep costs down. Is the 10mm a requirement with the distance or more of a future proofing thing that's being rolled out in new builds, only its £65 and i was only going for a modest cooker and plan to sell the house in less than 2 years although fully appreciate where you're coming from

 

[Matt789]

okay thanks for that ban all sheds.
are you going to actually be useful and say what the charge is or am i right in thinking you're a sparky who doesn't like to see someone doing it themselves..in which case check the title of the site you're on mate

 

[Johnmelad502]

okay thanks for that ban all sheds.
are you going to actually be useful and say what the charge is or am i right in thinking you're a sparky who doesn't like to see someone doing it themselves..in which case check the title of the site you're on mate

BAS is the resident site bully-boy. If he can't humiliate, offend or swear at you he just...

 

[plugwash]

The strange thing is he used to be pretty helpful...

 

[ban-all-sheds]

okay thanks for that ban all sheds.

NP.

are you going to actually be useful and say what the charge is

I don't know what the charge is, but unlike everyone else in the entire world reading this, you know where you live, so you could go and check it out on your council's website.

Which would be a BGI, rather than guessing, if end-to-end cost is going to be the deciding factor.

I was just expressing amusement at the thought of it being less than £70, particularly when the person doing it can't produce a certificate.

or am i right in thinking you're a sparky who doesn't like to see someone doing it themselves

No.