And you'll be able to come up with a rational and logical explanation of how the post I made hurt, persecuted or intimidated Matt789, will you?BAS is the resident site bully-boy. If he can't humiliate, offend or swear at you he just...
Repositioning control unit
- Thread starter Matt789
- Start date
Sponsored Links
J
Johnmelad502
At times he still is. But he has I suspect a bit of a mental health problem. Most people like him do, some get help while others don't/wont or just refuse to see/acknowledge that they have a problem.
Yeah well, i only found out about the legislation a few hours ago needless to say i haven't checked out all aspects, cant be expected to do everything straight away or know its variable across the country (and lets be honest it can't vary that much)
On the basis you can have a survey done for £250 i don't see how it can be THAT much, anyway i'll look ty v much BAS
On the basis you can have a survey done for £250 i don't see how it can be THAT much, anyway i'll look ty v much BAS
I still am.
I take it that you've never used smileys or images to express amusement, surprise, or any other not actually helpful reaction?
Sponsored Links
Don't give up your day job.
Nah - I'm not the one pursuing a pathetic and childish personal vendetta from topic to topic, repeatedly accusing someone (without ever being able to justify it of course) of being a bully, or mentally ill, etc.
i'll er, just re post the last question that i asked before things got touchy, ta
I'm more than willing to take experienced advice as gospel.. but where possible i'm trying to keep costs down. Is the 10mm a requirement with the distance or more of a future proofing thing that's being rolled out in new builds, only its £65 and i was only going for a modest cooker and plan to sell the house in less than 2 years although fully appreciate where you're coming from
I'm more than willing to take experienced advice as gospel.. but where possible i'm trying to keep costs down. Is the 10mm a requirement with the distance or more of a future proofing thing that's being rolled out in new builds, only its £65 and i was only going for a modest cooker and plan to sell the house in less than 2 years although fully appreciate where you're coming from
If your not staying can I ask what size oven (KW) you are planning to install?
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technical/Charts/VoltageDrop.html
Partly that, and (maybe) partly not agreeing with the use of diversity at the individual circuit design level.
You do need to think carefully about the Building Regulations issue.
If you don't notify, then if you're asked at sale time about notifiable work, you'll either have to lie or 'fess up.
The former might be an easy option, but technically it is fraud, and you have to wonder if the risk, however small, is worth it for a trivial sum.
The latter will probably cost you the price of a PIR, which will make the end-to-end cost of the job higher than having it done by an electrician in the first place. Or if it's a buyers' market, and you've got a stroppy one, you might have given him a stick to beat you with.
If you do notify then I'd be very surprised if t wouldn't be cheaper to get an electrician.
First off, thanks for you post BAS – you can be useful!
Although I ‘m going wrong somewhere with the drop off wizard, my consumer unit is 100 A, 240 V so should make my wattage 24000 or am I going wrong?
Anyway maybe with a twinge of irony I’ve looked up the manual of the built in oven I was thinking off (max draw 2250w-2400w thanks JBPElec) and apparently it can be either hard wired or…on the mains – ‘with an omnipolar circuit breaker’, would I be right in thinking this then becomes a piece of p? or do I not get off that easy and there still has to be a direct cut off point available from the consumer unit and/or control unit regardless ? I should point out there would also be a separate ceramic hob - thanks for your help fellas
Although I ‘m going wrong somewhere with the drop off wizard, my consumer unit is 100 A, 240 V so should make my wattage 24000 or am I going wrong?
Anyway maybe with a twinge of irony I’ve looked up the manual of the built in oven I was thinking off (max draw 2250w-2400w thanks JBPElec) and apparently it can be either hard wired or…on the mains – ‘with an omnipolar circuit breaker’, would I be right in thinking this then becomes a piece of p? or do I not get off that easy and there still has to be a direct cut off point available from the consumer unit and/or control unit regardless ? I should point out there would also be a separate ceramic hob - thanks for your help fellas
"It is recomended that electric ovens are supplied by a seperate circuit, however for lightly loaded circuits ovens of rating13amp or less may be connected into a ring final circuit."
Now as YOU are looking for a quick cheap fix and are moving house I would be inclined to say xxxxx to future proofing and drop a 13amp fused spur to your cooker.
Still needs notifying but will save a fortune on new circuits and cooker outlets.
2400w equates to 10.5 amps.
Need to know the wattage for the hob, can apply diversity so should be ok.
And I fully accept this is not best or good practice but is within regulations and answers the OPs question.
Now as YOU are looking for a quick cheap fix and are moving house I would be inclined to say xxxxx to future proofing and drop a 13amp fused spur to your cooker.
Still needs notifying but will save a fortune on new circuits and cooker outlets.
2400w equates to 10.5 amps.
Need to know the wattage for the hob, can apply diversity so should be ok.
And I fully accept this is not best or good practice but is within regulations and answers the OPs question.
No one disagree with that man! Sounds excellent JBP you’re a star
So I could do a fused (which I guess qualifies as an omnipolar breaker as I couldn’t find a definition of omnipolar) spur from the nearest socket - which could also be switched like a control unit, and both the oven and hob could sit behind that okay ?
I’ve looked up the hobs usage and with all of them on its 6200w, is that a deal breaker
I guess a cooker hood is another thing but I could take that from another outlet..?
So I could do a fused (which I guess qualifies as an omnipolar breaker as I couldn’t find a definition of omnipolar) spur from the nearest socket - which could also be switched like a control unit, and both the oven and hob could sit behind that okay ?
I’ve looked up the hobs usage and with all of them on its 6200w, is that a deal breaker
I guess a cooker hood is another thing but I could take that from another outlet..?
Sorry mate, think thats a deal breaker, will check diversity later, but I think now its too high!
Any chance of a gas hob?
Done the diversity, comes out too high, sorry to have got hopes up!
10.5+27.0=37.7 Max demand
37.7*30%=11.25 Amps
11.25+10=21.25
Total with diversity = 21.25 Amps
Any chance of a gas hob?
Done the diversity, comes out too high, sorry to have got hopes up!
10.5+27.0=37.7 Max demand
37.7*30%=11.25 Amps
11.25+10=21.25
Total with diversity = 21.25 Amps
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Sponsored Links
