riello burner motor buzzing and then lock out

[dantheman3k]

I am 100% sure i have solved my problem now. I discovered that i need a new collar and flange because there is a gap on the left side wich is allowing hot air to blow onto the pump making it almost to hot to touch once boiler shuts down because CH is no longer needed, the next time CH is called for the pump is so hot it goes tight motor strains to turn pump and lockout .im mega chuffed caught it in the act this evening buzz from motor then lockout. took side of fan casing to turn motor by hand and it was stiff as hell waited for it to cool down and it was as free as a bird.

Ill be ordering new collar and flange tomorrow now gonna open a nice cold beer to celebrate, its a weight off my mind.. cheers

 

[oilman]

You can use a thin glass rope wrapped one turn round the burner to fix the gap, even if it is only temporary.

 

[WDIK]

how did you do that then? it wasnt running remember?
and by the way 100 psi is a minimum figure for a nozzle to atomize oil at

dude you need to read the posts. and 100psi is the correct presure for my nozzle

DUDE be told its the minimun pressure, I regularly run them at 18 bar+
Im a proffesional combustion engineer not an amature
I dont mind helping or giving simple advice, actually the higher the pressure the better the atomization gets closer to the gassing we are looking for.
then again i work on rigs up to 2 mega watt.

 

[dantheman3k]

You can use a thin glass rope wrapped one turn round the burner to fix the gap, even if it is only temporary.

Thanks where would i buy that stuff from

 

[WDIK]

hrpc/ come parts centre

 

[oilman]

DUDE be told its the minimun pressure, I regularly run them at 18 bar+
Im a proffesional combustion engineer not an amature
I dont mind helping or giving simple advice, actually the higher the pressure the better the atomization gets closer to the gassing we are looking for.
then again i work on rigs up to 2 mega watt.

dan, try an ironmonger.

 

[dantheman3k]

how did you do that then? it wasnt running remember?
and by the way 100 psi is a minimum figure for a nozzle to atomize oil at

dude you need to read the posts. and 100psi is the correct presure for my nozzle

DUDE be told its the minimun pressure, I regularly run them at 18 bar+
Im a proffesional combustion engineer not an amature
I dont mind helping or giving simple advice, actually the higher the pressure the better the atomization gets closer to the gassing we are looking for.
then again i work on rigs up to 2 mega watt.

Well thanks i am an amature with a brain and i worked out that if the original pump was set at 100psi i should set the new one to 100psi because i dont have any way of setting up air mixture. can this be done with the naked eye bit like tuning a car?

 

[oilman]

Only if you are a proffesional combustion engineer.

I can't do it.

I must be an 'ammer chewer.

 

[oilman]

I regularly run them at 18 bar+

Really? With kerosene?

 

[dantheman3k]

Well what ever i have done my radiators get a lot hotter a lot quicker so im chuffed have you seen the oil prices lately ffs

 

[oilman]

Well what ever i have done my radiators get a lot hotter a lot quicker so im chuffed have you seen the oil prices lately ffs

That's nothing, they're doubling every two years.

 

[dantheman3k]

Well what ever i have done my radiators get a lot hotter a lot quicker so im chuffed have you seen the oil prices lately ffs

That's nothing, they're doubling every two years.

Baked beans is the way forward

 

[dantheman3k]

well im off to bed now got to get some flange tomorrow lol

Thanks for all tha help again

 

[WDIK]

I regularly run them at 18 bar+

Really? With kerosene?

gas oil

we could rotary cup but i aint seen one for years

 

[SeanP]

Some great advice on this post, just wish I had found it a while back, I have had similar symptoms as Dan was describing there, luckily I have only replaced the capacitor, thought that had it cured, still locked out occasionally with what sounded like the motor not having enough power to start up, finally got it sorted, the shaft of the motor was quite badly worn at an angle as well, so stripped the motor down and filed a new edge running straight to the shaft + fit a new coupling and it's now cured!