Roof Repairs

Joined
24 Nov 2012
Messages
13
Reaction score
0
Location
Yorkshire
Country
United Kingdom
Hi All

I have some water ingress above my bedroom, and I've been advised that it's due to cracked lead in box gutter between 2 parts of the roof. The lead is one long length and should have been in sections, so it's cracked due to thermal expansion.

They've suggested that the fix would be to felt the box gutter.

Picture below (you can't see the crack in this picture - it's near the back).

1744657990906.png


There's also a number of cracked roof tiles like this which I've asked to be replaced: -

1744658663674.png


And a dry verge plastic cap that's fallen off.

So first, does the repair on the box gutter make sense - and by "felting the box" do they mean adding felt on top of the lead, or replacing the lead and felting what's underneath?

Secondly, I've been quoted a total of 950 for this job - does that sound reasonable?

Thanks
 
OP,
No, its not the best solution. No need for felt.
Briefly: Depending on the valley carpentry below the lead, & at the raised edges then the lead sheet can be cut at every split & every step-down(the drip) & lead pieces slipped in to cover the cuts.
Correctly spaced drips are essential - laps and welts wont work.
Its much more complicated than that but a roofing lead worker should know exactly what to do.

I cant see much in your pic except that the debris needs cleaning off, & that the discharge end of the lead sheet is badly wrinkled. The raised edges look less than the recom. 75mm, and the fall seems very flat?
Exactly what your roofer quoted for is a question you must ask them. Some will take the valuable lead, & simply replace with a roll of felt - no good.
 
The lead valley is a design issue. Yes, the lead should be in sections for expansion , but that would also require steps at every joint, and that's the design issue - there are none and they can't easily be formed now.

You can get pre-formed expansion joints which can be used on a continuous flat run. That's a job for an experienced plumber, as it needs soldering.

The lead can be removed and the valley lined with suitable bitumen felt, but that's a 15-20 year life. Better still would be to use EPDM which will last a lot longer. EPDM should be laid by experienced people.

Either way for felt or EPDM, the valley may need to be lined with a firm base and may need extending up under the tiles a bit more.

Felt should not just be slapped on. And it needs to be a high performance felt if you choose that option.

£950 seems a good price, but may be too good for the work involved
 
It can be felted. Probably cheaper than lead with its adaptions .

Thr felt shouldn't be laid on top of the lead .
 
The box gutter could be felted but:
Unless the OP strips the lead & removes/pushes up the lower two courses of tile on either side then we wont know how the box gutter is constructed.
Felt would require torching on - heat at height with the insurance issues, & the fire risk proximity of tile roofing felt and loft insulation - and a correct, smooth support backing, (ie no steps,) falling all the way from gutter head to discharge.
 
Hi All

I have some water ingress above my bedroom, and I've been advised that it's due to cracked lead in box gutter between 2 parts of the roof. The lead is one long length and should have been in sections, so it's cracked due to thermal expansion.

They've suggested that the fix would be to felt the box gutter.

Picture below (you can't see the crack in this picture - it's near the back).

View attachment 378986

There's also a number of cracked roof tiles like this which I've asked to be replaced: -

View attachment 378987

And a dry verge plastic cap that's fallen off.

So first, does the repair on the box gutter make sense - and by "felting the box" do they mean adding felt on top of the lead, or replacing the lead and felting what's underneath?

Secondly, I've been quoted a total of 950 for this job - does that sound reasonable?

Thanks
It's a lead valley (not a box gutter) (y)

I'd felt it.

You will need to remove the a couple of courses of tiles as well as the lead. The bottom course of tiles will need to sit on a cocking fillet and this will need to be fitted prior to the flat roof material being laid.
 

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Back
Top