Running condensing boilers in condensing mode

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From my O level physics and 15 years working on chemical plants, this is what I understand about condensing boilers.

When a hydrocarbon such as natural gas burns it produces carbon dioxide and water vapour. hard fact.

The latent heat of vapourisation is the large amount of energy it takes to turn a liquid into a gas / vapour and the similar amount of energy released when a gas / vapour turns into a liquid. hard fact.

The following are what seem like facts to me

So, in a condensing boiler, if you provide a heat exchanger surface cold enough to cool the combustion gases below the dew point, the water vapour condenses on this surface, transfering the latent heat of vapourisation to the heat exchanger and the heating water it contains rather than it being lost out of the exhaust. Water from the combustion leaves the boiler as a liquid, not a gas

About 54'c is the dew point when condensation starts, more water vapour will condense and more latent heat will be extracted from the exhaust gas at even lower temps.

The temperature of the heat exchanger is governed by the temperature of the water returning to the boiler from the radiators / hw tank / hw heat exchanger. The cooler the return water, the better.

These are some bits I don't understand / agree with

Boiler manufacturers and plumbers say that a large plume is a sign that the boiler is condensing well, BUT the plume is made of water vapour condensing when it hits the cold outside air so it has left the boiler as a gas with all of its latent heat so I can't see how a large plume is a sign of good condensation in the boiler, very much the opposite I would say.

Most conventional or system (non combi) boilers have only one temperature control so if the temperature is set high enough to heat the tank, then the return water from the heating is to hot for condensation to occur and efficiency is reduced especially if trv's or zone valves have reduced the amount of the system being heated.
If the boiler flow temperature is reduced to ensure that the return temp is cool enough to condense the water vapour, the tank will take forever to heat up, if at all, and undersized radiators may not emit enough heat. Does anyone else see this or have I missed something??

I designed the heating system that feeds our two holiday flats and our own house, 300sqm of floorspace, 7 bedrooms, 4 bathrooms and accommodation for up to 15 people with two unvented cylinders and a mixture of directly fed ufh and oversize radiators running at ~50-60' supply temp. All fed from a single 24kw Ravenheat condensing system boiler that had two output controls.
Unfortunately it was not noted that the wrong boiler had been supplied untill the gas fitter had mounted it on the wall (and it had laid in the shed for 3 months) so not returnable. some rather dubious methods were used to make this boiler work in the manner required.

When the Ravenheat boiler worked, the system worked very well, gas bills are about £1200 /yr which I think is good for all of the above accommodation which is all single glazed and not particularly well insulated in an exposed location.
Pluming from the boiler was only noticable when the tanks were being heated at high output temp

After 5 years of exhaust fans seizing, output thermocouples failing and now the ignition board has got fried, coupled with the fact that it's the wrong boiler in the first place I want to replace. BUT apart from Ravenheat and Keston I cannot find any system boilers that have separately controllable output temps for heating and hot water.

From my own experience and it seems every gas fitter I speak to, Ravenheat boilers are unreliable and the posts on various websites suggest that Keston boilers are no better, Are the more recent boilers from these manufacturers any better??. Does anyone know of other boilers that have the dual output feature

Regards
Gary
Anyo
 
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Vaillant Ecotec Plus 600 series coupled with a VR65 control unit.

This will tell the boiler to fire at a higher flow temp when hot water is demanded, even though you only have one boiler stat.
 
Is this post designed to educate us all, tell us how clever you think you are, or bore us to death?

I know where I stand.

If the question right at the end is the salient feature, then you want a weather compensated boiler. Hard fact, as you may put it.

These are available from most manufacturers, such as Vaillant, Viessmann, Remeha, Bosch etc etc.



The plume emitted from the boiler can be recovered in terms of latent heat, the two main manufacturers of such solutions are Zenex Gas Saver and Ravenheat, ha ha.

Unless you produce lots of hot water in relation to Central Heating these recovery systems struggle to justify their capital cost.
 
a plume does indicate the poc is being cooled sufficiently enough to produce water vapour to some extent, but its not a great indication of efficiency. your path of thinking would only be correct if the boiler was 100% efficient. Some heat will escape and some of this heat will be in the form of waer vapour so you will see a plume.
You should aim to have a differential across your heating system of 15-20C for condensing boilers with rads, this means you can set the temp at 70-75. thats sufficient to heat a tank of hot water. Its generally accepted that efficiency will be reduced in hot water mode.
There are a few systems that offer you what you are looking for, generally with WC(where the heating is run at optimum temp and the Hw is usually operated at max temp on priority to heat it up quickly). the problem you have is a lack of systems that offer seperate zone control with WC, which I'm assuming you have. The british market is years behind unfortunately.
Vaillant have launched the VR61 which operates 2 zones, if you fancy testing it and letting me know how it goes :D
oh and yes, ravenheaps are junk, but you don't need me to tell you that
 
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Dave,
This is the horrendous beast that is the simplified wiring for our system, the Vaillant product only allows for one 3way or two 2way valves
 
Simond
You sound like the typical head up own rse gas fitter!
No a weather compensated boiler won't do what I want it to do and the recovery systems you mention are typically used with non condensing combis. The rads in the systen were sized to give required heat output even on the coldest days with a supply temp of 50'c
 
Thanks.

The systems I mentioned are specifically NOT intended to work with non-condensing boilers.

I should stick to cooking breakfasts and cleaning karzis if I were you. You have posted a simple multizone wiring diagram, not NASA mission control.
 
Yes I can see now why a VR65 is not suitable for your situation.

I am not sure of current Vaillant controls as I do not choose to fit Vaillant anymore, but I seem to remember there is a new VR61 or similar that will control multiple zones :confused:

If not check out the ATAG boilers and controls. Again I have never got involved with complicated zone set ups with them, but they are the leaders in technology and heating control at present, so perhaps they could offer a solution using their 'brain q' control.

I would recommend giving them a call
 
No a weather compensated boiler won't do what I want
What's wrong with weather compensation for your system?

Assuming a 24kW boiler is the correct size, a Remeha 24S System Boiler will do what you want. If it is wired for Hot Water priority, the boiler can be set to run with any flow temp you like for central heating. But as soon as the system switches over to Hot Water, the flow temp automatically rises to the maximum.

The only disadvantage is that central heating stops while the hot water is replenished.
 

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