Scoring bottom of door to prevent chipping?

[Deleted member 174758]

10 degrees is for climb cut pulling saw backwards with 1mm depth? Out of interest if I was to score I guess you run Stanley blades left side on right side of where saw is cutting? So you have width of Stanley blade above where saw is going to cut?

Please re-read my original post! I thought that I clearly stated that you need to skew the block plane by 10° rather than running it straight across the door as illustrated in your photos, or maybe not. If you try running a block plane across the bottom of a vertical laid veneered door (I.e. a door where the veneer runs from top to bottom of the door, as opposed to side to side) you always run the risk of chipping out the veneer across the edge and especially where the plane gets to the end if the cut.

If cutting a door the blade of a circular saw obviously needs to remain perpendicular to the face of the door at all times. If you use the curcular saw scoring method and make the first 1mm deep backwards cut the you will automatically have the position of your knife scoring cut marked on the edge of the door. Obviously you only need to score the exit edge of the door (i.e. the edge where the saw blade exits the cut) because you won't get chipping out on the entry side of the cut. The knife mark must (obviously) align to the side of the saw kerf where the "good" door is, not on the waste side of the cut

 

[Keitai]

Cut my jig. One side for short side of circular saw and other for wider side. Used wider side on jig for climb cut then turned around and used other side of saw to cut through door. With thickness of ply it only just does it, but does it.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Used wider side on jig for climb cut then turned around and used other side of saw to cut through doorView attachment 257275

Climb cutting on a circular saw? Are you certain you were making a full depth climb cut? If so, that's very iffy! In a small way you are approaching what that guy did with the angle grinder and a circular saw blade (spoiler alert - he cut a blood vessel in his neck and died by bleeding out). If it was scoring cut, i.e. a backwards cut at 1 to 2mm depth then that's quite a bit different and is called a scoring cut

When you cut forwards the front of the saw blade does the work whilst at the same time the action if the blade (with the teeth entering the material whilst travelling upwards) automatically pulls the saw body down onto the material - pulling the saw backwards into the material is what we call a climb cut (where the teeth are heading downwards into the material) and the saw naturally tries to push itself upwards and out of the cut. So if anything goes wrong, such as feeding too fast or jinking the blade accidentally (e.g. sneezing, momentary loss of concentration, etc) the saw can and will come out backwards at you, literally climbing out of the kerf. In view of the fact that a 165mm blade running at 5000 rpm is actually travelling at circa 97mph at the tips, when things go wrong, they have a habit of going wrong far faster than your reflexes can cope with. You already have a tick mark either side of the door. all you need on the exit side of the door is to take your square, and a sharp knife and knife a line on the edge of the door where the blade will exit, This severs the fibres and means that if you slow the saw feed down as you exit the door and support the offcut you should get a pretty clean exit cut that will clean up with a sharp block plane. It isn't rocket science, Huston

You already have a tick mark either side of the door. All you need on the exit side of the door is to take your square, and a sharp knife and knife a line on the edge of the door where the blade will exit. This severs the fibres and means that if you slow the saw feed down as you exit the door and support the offcut you should get a pretty clean exit cut that will clean up with a sharp block plane. It isn't rocket science, Huston

If on the other hand you are referring to a scoring cut - a cut with a depth of 1 to 2 mm that is different

 

[HERTS P&D]

It's taken 1 year and you haven't cut the bottom of that door yet???



Andy

 

[opps]

What grade do you use?
20???
Ever tried a 240 grit?

Regardless of the grit number, if you are unlucky the paper will snag under the veneer and damage it if you sand in the wrong direction. I have been there.

 

[Keitai]

Climb cutting on a circular saw? Are you certain you were making a climb cut? If so, that's very iffy! In a small way you are approaching what that guy did with the angle grinder and a circular saw blade (spoiler alert - he cut a blood vessel in his neck and died by bleeding out).

When you cut forwards the front of the saw blade does the work whilst at the same time the action if the blade (with the teeth entering the material whilst travelling upwards) automatically pulls the saw body down onto the material - pulling the saw backwards into the material is what we call a climb cut (where the teeth are heading downwards into the material) and the saw naturally tries to push itself upwards and out of the cut. So if anything goes wrong, such as feeding too fast or jinking the blade accidentally (e.g. sneezing, momentary loss of concentration, etc) the saw can and will come out backwards at you, literally climbing out of the kerf. In view of the fact that a 165mm blade running at 5000 rpm is actually travelling at circa 97mph at the tips, when things go wrong, they have a habit of going wrong far faster than your reflexes can cope with. You already have a tick mark either side of the door. all you need on the exit side of the door is to take your square, and a sharp knife and knife a line on the edge of the door where the blade will exit, This severs the fibres and means that if you slow the saw feed down as you exit the door and support the offcut you should get a pretty clean exit cut that will clean up with a sharp block plane. It isn't rocket science, Huston

You already have a tick mark either side of the door. All you need on the exit side of the door is to take your square, and a sharp knife and knife a line on the edge of the door where the blade will exit. This severs the fibres and means that if you slow the saw feed down as you exit the door and support the offcut you should get a pretty clean exit cut that will clean up with a sharp block plane. It isn't rocket science, Huston

If on the other hand you are referring to a scoring cut - a cut with a depth of 1 to 2 mm that is different

The saw is set to cut 1 or 2mm depth into door using jig and slowly pulled back the whole width of door, thought that was a climb cut? You wrote that on this thread last year. You do pull the saw the whole width of door dont u? Gives a clean cut

 

[Deleted member 174758]

The saw is set to cut 1 or 2mm depth into door using jig and slowly pulled back the whole width of door, thought that was a climb cut? You wrote that on this thread last year. You do pull the saw the whole width of door dont u? Gives a clean cut

And I also said specificaly that "This is called a scoring cut". Call something a climb cut and it is generally used to refer to a full depth cut

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Sandpaper block, 10 seconds and impossible to mess up.

If you only sand downwards, towards the face of the veneer in one direction then no, it won't happen - but if you sand down then up, a back and forth action, so that the return stroke is towards the veneer you can snag it and lift it, particularly on more brittle veneers such as oak and brittle man made materials such as melamine and laminate. You need to sand downwards only, towards the veneer to avoid this. Seen it messed up dozens of times

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Regarding chamfre, I used blockpane at 45 degrees along bottom. I guess this would need painting afterwards.

Yes, but a very small chamfer isn't too noticeable. The old workarounds used to be Tippex for white doors or a Sharpie for black ones!

With regards to the mitre plane, I would recommend that you skew the blade a little (point the nose 10° or to the left as viewed in your picture) as this effectively reduces the attack angle of the blade, reducing the tendency to break out bits of veneer on veneered doors (these are normally applied to the door in vertical orientation

10 degrees is for climb cut pulling saw backwards with 1mm depth? Out of interest if I was to score I guess you run Stanley blades left side on right side of where saw is cutting? So you have width of Stanley blade above where saw is going to cut?

At what point did I say you put a 10° angle on the saw. Read the above - to me it clearly refers to using a plane NOT a saw. Plane - as in BLOCK PLANE, HAND PLANE or MITRE PLANE

I give up. Herts P&D is right. YOU ARE UNTEACHABLE, I am wasting my time and have been for a very long time.

 

[johnny2007]

If you only sand downwards, towards the face of the veneer in one direction then no, it won't happen - but if you sand down then up, a back and forth action, so that the return stroke is towards the veneer you can snag it and lift it, particularly on more brittle veneers such as oak and brittle man made materials such as melamine and laminate. You need to sand downwards only, towards the veneer to avoid this. Seen it messed up dozens of times

I didn't realise we need to state the obvious

 

[blup]

It does seem Keital, terminology aside, has actually achieved his aim of a clean cut to his door. He confused @JobAndKnock's reference to scoring cut as a form of climb cut, which I think it is in the sense that reversing the travel of the blade is technically a "climb" even though this is usually a full depth cut.

Look forward to the post about hanging the door!

Blup

 

[Deleted member 174758]

I didn't realise we need to state the obvious

Well, you know who we are dealing with here, don't you?

 

[johnny2007]

Well, you know who we are dealing with here, don't you?

 

[Keitai]

And I also said specificaly that "This is called a scoring cut". Call something a climb cut and it is generally used to refer to a full depth cut

Ok thxs. Mixed up terminology. I was doing and meant a scoring cut not climb cut. Because of the jig (12mm ply) the blade is set to 13mm depth below bottom of circular saw and pulled backwards. If no jig it's set to just 1mm- both scoring door by 1mm

 

[HERTS P&D]

So it's taken 1 year for you to score the bottom of the door?



Andy