Scotch (B)Lock Wire Connectors and 240v wiring

[agulesin]

Hello all,

I know this is going to earn me some flames but better to ask than be embarrassed at a later date!

The Plan: I want to run a cable up the garden to power some (4-off) 240v LED outside lights to light up the garden path (25 meters long). At the far end I intend to install an outdoor IP-rated 13A socket to plug in a cleaner to vacuum the car or mow the lawn. The whole lot would be powered from an external RCD fed outside socket (as available at DIY stores).

As I'm a tenant I can't bury a cable so intend to make it a temporary 'installation' which can easily be removed when we move out. I was thinking to run a bright coloured cable and clip it to the fence so it's out the way, but close to the ground.

I was thinking to install 'taps' off the main cable using 'Scotch Lock Wire Connectors' protected in IP rated glanded connection boxes. The reason for this is to prevent the possibility of a loose connection if using screw connectors and interrupting the cable at each box. Each box would be mounted below it's light on a wooden 'plank/stake' pushed into the ground.

I know this isn't going to be popular with the professionals out there but I just wanted to know whether it would be OK to use Scotch Lock Wire Connectors in 240v applications. Obviously the load from the LED lamp on each connector would be minimal.

Many thanks for any useful advice...

Stephen

 

[Tigercubrider]

Imho NO
I am not an electrician but wouldn't use "normal" cable therefore the use of scotch locks (regardless of voltage) wouldn't be an issue

I would think that armoured cable was the only safe way to run that distance for anything more than a weekend BBQ.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

The reason for this is to prevent the possibility of a loose connection if using screw connectors and interrupting the cable at each box.

Surely IDC connectors are far more likely to be flaky than properly done screw connections?

If you don't want screwed ones, use maintenance free.

 

[flameport]

'Scotch Lock Wire Connectors'

No.

If you must use the arrangement described, there are far better connectors.
Using cable/flex that is brightly coloured isn't really relevant either - selecting something which is resistant to weather and UV would be far better.

 

[agulesin]

Surely IDC connectors are far more likely to be flaky than properly done screw connections?

The Scotch Lock connectors allow the main wire to pass without cutting or stripping the insulation. Secondary wire would only carry a few mA to power the LED lamp.

Sample connector: https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/gIEAAOSwgxxZlJ73/s-l300.jpg

But I think armoured cable is the way to go.

Thanks!

 

[winston1]

The whole lot would be powered from an external RCD fed outside socket (as available at DIY stores).

Is the circuit not already protected by a RCD in the CU? Because you don't need or want 2 RCDs in line.

 

[JohnW2]

Is the circuit not already protected by a RCD in the CU? ...

Is that perhaps not what the OP meant when he wrote ...

....The whole lot would be powered from an external RCD fed outside socket ...

.... Because you don't need or want 2 RCDs in line.

One doesn't generally** 'need' two RCDs in series, provided one trusts a sole one to never become faulty. However, whether the OP 'wants' it is something that only he can tell us.

** the OP has indicated that the circuit will be used for a lawnmower (and perhaps other oudoor/garden tools). In such a situation, some would argue that it is safer to have an (invariably 'active') RCD socket/plug/adapter, even when the circuit is already protected by a ('passive') RCD in the CU, because of the (admittedly very small) risk that could otherwise arise on restoration of power after a power failure.

Kind Regards, john

 

[ban-all-sheds]

The Scotch Lock connectors allow the main wire to pass without cutting or stripping the insulation.

No, cutting the insulation is exactly what they do - how else do you think they make contact with the conductor?

 

[agulesin]

No, cutting the insulation is exactly what they do - how else do you think they make contact with the conductor?

Sorry - my laziness: "Without cutting the conductor..."

I know the insulation is 'pushed aside' to make the connection but the continuity of the main cable isn't interrupted; therefore current can flow happily past the connector without having to make a detour into another wire squashed into a screw connector (with a potential bad connection etc.) (I'm sure the electrons would be happier as well!)

The second RCD is part of a kit the landlord gave and will plug into an existing socket in the kitchen rather than running (another?) spur off the ring main.

 

[winston1]

The second RCD is part of a kit the landlord gave and will plug into an existing socket in the kitchen rather than running (another?) spur off the ring main.

I assume your landlord is not an electrician and does not know 2 RCDs in line is not necessary (in spite of what John2 says). Using John2's arguement would have us putting RCD plugs on every appliance.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I know the insulation is 'pushed aside' to make the connection but the continuity of the main cable isn't interrupted; therefore current can flow happily past the connector without having to make a detour into another wire squashed into a screw connector (with a potential bad connection etc.) (I'm sure the electrons would be happier as well!)

Firstly, you are unduly worried about "detours" and potential bad connections.

Secondly, you are a bit AAF with your worry - the integrity of a scotchlock connection is far more of a concern than a screwed or maintenance-free terminal.

The second RCD is part of a kit the landlord gave and will plug into an existing socket in the kitchen rather than running (another?) spur off the ring main.

If that's what the landlord wants you to use, then I guess you'll have to, but electrically there is no difference between that and a fused spur. He's happy about you drilling a hole in the wall?

But I think armoured cable is the way to go.

You will not be able to terminate armoured cable into the plug you plan to use at the house end.

That socket enclosure might have another knockout where a SWA gland could be installed. It would mean that when you move out you'd have to unwire it, rather than just unplug.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

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[Steve059]

Rather than use SWA cable, given the temporary nature of the installation, how about using plastic conduit? It will protect the cable from UV and accidental damage from, say, a strimmer.