Scribing Molded Wooden Profile

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Hi,

I have a few profiles which I'd like to cut together, much like this:
1677950605826.png


Although this is a stock image, it is quite indicative of the profiles I'd like to cut as none of them are against a flat surface on which to trace around the profile shown.

How do you go about tracing the profile of one side on to the face of the other in order to cut this out? Does anyone know whether there are any good videos out there - I did try to find some but wasn't sure what the process is called and all I can find are how to scribe on to flat surfaces like walls etc...

Thanks
 
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If non-structural, cut at 45 degrees. Then insert the resulting wedge into the cut out on the other piece. Then stick and caulk, while praying the caulk won't crack. The following illustrates square or circular profiles. It will work for any other profiles.

joining.png


Joining of non-identical pieces:
non-identical-join.png
 
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Cut the moulding piece you wish to shape at 45degrees top to bottom. Then with a coping saw (or fretsaw) cut along the edge of the 45degree cut squarely through the moulding.
 
This is a scribed glszing bead. Traditionally done with a coping saw, a brass bound scribing jig, and scribing gouges. The jig was also drill so as to act as a dowelling jig (the joints were assembled using dowels and glue). This technique disappeared during late Victorian/Edwardian times in the main

The split piece is cut at 45 degrees in both directions, the two cuts bisecting in the dead centre if the nib at the top with the cuts terminating at the rebate. Waste material is removed using a combination of coping saw, scribing gouges and chisels. The rebated section is removed using a dovetail saw and chisels. Modern work often seems to be pinned and glued together, although I have seen a couple of examples held together with whay appeared to be Hoffmann dovetails

Current practice uses matched cutter and scrribing cutter sets to do the scribed cuts
 
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This is a scribed glszing bead. Traditionally done with a coping saw, a brass bound scribing jig, and scribing gouges. The jig was also drill so as to act as a dowelling jig (the joints were assembled using dowels and glue). This technique disappeared during late Victorian/Edwardian times in the main

The split piece is cut at 45 degrees in both directions, the two cuts bisecting in the dead centre if the nib at the top with the cuts terminating at the rebate. Waste material is removed using a combination of coping saw, scribing gouges and chisels. The rebated section is removed using a dovetail saw and chisels. Modern work often seems to be pinned and glued together, although I have seen a couple of examples held together with whay appeared to be Hoffmann dovetails

Current practice uses matched cutter and scrribing cutter sets to do the scribed cuts
thanks J&K i had been racking my brains i had brain fog i was thinking styles and rails knowing its not glazing rails as it didn't compute i suppose as its 25 years since i dealt with making one i am allowed to forget as i dont build just repair about 1 window every few years since :giggle:
 
This is a scribed glszing bead. Traditionally done with a coping saw, a brass bound scribing jig, and scribing gouges. The jig was also drill so as to act as a dowelling jig (the joints were assembled using dowels and glue). This technique disappeared during late Victorian/Edwardian times in the main

The split piece is cut at 45 degrees in both directions, the two cuts bisecting in the dead centre if the nib at the top with the cuts terminating at the rebate. Waste material is removed using a combination of coping saw, scribing gouges and chisels. The rebated section is removed using a dovetail saw and chisels. Modern work often seems to be pinned and glued together, although I have seen a couple of examples held together with whay appeared to be Hoffmann dovetails

Current practice uses matched cutter and scrribing cutter sets to do the scribed cuts
Thanks J&K, for clarifying what I was explaining but not very well.
 

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