search site facility

[Taylortwocities]

As you seem to be incapable of reading replies. At no extra cost to you I have loaded your pictures so everybody can see them.
My link above tells you how to do this for yourself..

Untitled

• Plantoid
• 1 Dec 2013
• 1

Untitled

• Plantoid
• 1 Dec 2013
• 1

Untitled

• Plantoid
• 1 Dec 2013
• 1

Untitled

• Plantoid
• 1 Dec 2013
• 1

Now, I am rather confused. What is your electrical query regarding this appliance?

 

[pjcomp]

At the risk of adding to your woes, if there are no screws visible it might be that the fitter used silicon or Gripfill on the chimney, which could mean even more collateral damage when you try to remove it. Any chance you can contact the installer and check with him what he did?

PJ

 

[swampy2]

Your pretty much *ucked by tiler & guy who did coving probably under someone else`s instructions.
The sides of chimney have to come out sideways(chimney internal return edge) to get away from internal bracket and hood.
Looks like you will have to remove small tiles at sides of hood.

 

[Plantoid]

As you seem to be incapable of reading replies. At no extra cost to you I have loaded your pictures so everybody can see them.
My link above tells you how to do this for yourself..

Untitled

• Plantoid
• 1 Dec 2013
• 1

Untitled

• Plantoid
• 1 Dec 2013
• 1

Untitled

• Plantoid
• 1 Dec 2013
• 1

Untitled

• Plantoid
• 1 Dec 2013
• 1

Now, I am rather confused. What is your electrical query regarding this appliance?

No need to be sarcastic Mister Two Cities .. I thought I'd clicked your link and it took me to putting the pictures where they sat .
But it could well be I have crossed my wires again ..it's to do with being on some mind bending medication & the likelihood of having the early onset of Alzheimer's .


When I first typed in my first couple of lines as the O/P , the system automatically put it in electrics . Which to me is a fair thing as it is an electric extractor fan . If you disagree with what the system has done perhaps you'd be kind enough to put it in a different arena and advise me where you've put it.

Anyway :-
Thanks very much for putting the pictures in the thread , I will revisit your link in a few minutes .
The question I have asked is :- " How do I take the false chimney off the electric extractor unit to get at the exhaust pipe . This may also entail taking the complete unit off the wall and disconnecting the electrics .
I was asking for advice from guys who may have done such a thing."

 

[Plantoid]

At the risk of adding to your woes, if there are no screws visible it might be that the fitter used silicon or Gripfill on the chimney, which could mean even more collateral damage when you try to remove it. Any chance you can contact the installer and check with him what he did?

PJ

I don't think the guy who fitted the kitchen is around ..seems he had lots of people looking for him and the rest of the repair team .

Thankfully I can move /have moved the outer lower cover up & down .... Just not quite enough by all accounts ..

 

[Plantoid]

Your pretty much *ucked by tiler & guy who did coving probably under someone else`s instructions.
The sides of chimney have to come out sideways(chimney internal return edge) to get away from internal bracket and hood.
Looks like you will have to remove small tiles at sides of hood.

Thanks Swampy ,
That's what I was afraid of , I managed to take out the whole 3 mm wide run of grouting adjacent to the chimney on either side from top to bottom but couldn't ease the rear side out away from the unit .

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I thought I'd clicked your link and it took me to putting the pictures where they sat .

Indeed.

But after step 1, step 2, step 3, step 4, step 5, step 6, step 7 and step 8 come step 9, step 10 and step 11.

You just couldn't be bothered to do the last 3.

 

[swampy2]

Your pretty much *ucked by tiler & guy who did coving probably under someone else`s instructions.
The sides of chimney have to come out sideways(chimney internal return edge) to get away from internal bracket and hood.
Looks like you will have to remove small tiles at sides of hood.

Thanks Swampy ,
That's what I was afraid of , I managed to take out the whole 3 mm wide run of grouting adjacent to the chimney on either side from top to bottom but couldn't ease the rear side out away from the unit .

The internal lip is between 5-10mm wide.
Other option is to unscrew cooker hood from wall( are fixings accessible?), you would be able to clear grout around its edges, then work it forward away from the wall(set up something to support it below, supply cable will stop you dropping to worktop).

Once its away from chimney, the chimney should the be free to remove.
Long winded but less cosmetic damage.

 

[Plantoid]

I thought I'd clicked your link and it took me to putting the pictures where they sat .

Indeed.

But after step 1, step 2, step 3, step 4, step 5, step 6, step 7 and step 8 come step 9, step 10 and step 11.

You just couldn't be bothered to do the last 3.

Nemo mortallium hori sapit ..no man is at all hours wise .

That's one of the probs with the Alzheimer's, you lose track in a matter of seconds or thirds and don't know it as the data bank in the neck top computer is quite empty of data on the subject. It's like playing cards where the suits and numbers slide off the cards as you play and you're left with several blank cards . Some days are worse than others.

Anyway Guy's , thanks for the baptism of fire upon my first posted thread on this site. . is this sort of flack normal ?
Is there a newbie intro arena to ease one's self into the forum ?

I've spent a wee while looking for one & so far it's been to no avail. Or is it just down to me to be filling out details on my profile ?

 

[Plantoid]

Your pretty much *ucked by tiler & guy who did coving probably under someone else`s instructions.
The sides of chimney have to come out sideways(chimney internal return edge) to get away from internal bracket and hood.
Looks like you will have to remove small tiles at sides of hood.

Thanks Swampy ,
That's what I was afraid of , I managed to take out the whole 3 mm wide run of grouting adjacent to the chimney on either side from top to bottom but couldn't ease the rear side out away from the unit .

The internal lip is between 5-10mm wide.
Other option is to unscrew cooker hood from wall( are fixings accessible?), you would be able to clear grout around its edges, then work it forward away from the wall(set up something to support it below, supply cable will stop you dropping to worktop).

Once its away from chimney, the chimney should the be free to remove.
Long winded but less cosmetic damage.

Thank you very much Swampy,
That's what I was after ....... that 5 - 10 mm figure.

It looks like I'll have to cut a few long thin wedges and ease the sides away from the chimney frame once I've taken a row of tiles from each side , as there are no visible or accessible fixing screws or nuts /bolts.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Am I mistaken, but I can see fixing screw at the top of the stack, it looks like the stack was not tall enough that is why you have a gap at the bottom. I guess that bottom of the stack hooks around the body of the main hood.

 

[swampy2]

Your pretty much *ucked by tiler & guy who did coving probably under someone else`s instructions.
The sides of chimney have to come out sideways(chimney internal return edge) to get away from internal bracket and hood.
Looks like you will have to remove small tiles at sides of hood.

Thanks Swampy ,
That's what I was afraid of , I managed to take out the whole 3 mm wide run of grouting adjacent to the chimney on either side from top to bottom but couldn't ease the rear side out away from the unit .

The internal lip is between 5-10mm wide.
Other option is to unscrew cooker hood from wall( are fixings accessible?), you would be able to clear grout around its edges, then work it forward away from the wall(set up something to support it below, supply cable will stop you dropping to worktop).

Once its away from chimney, the chimney should the be free to remove.
Long winded but less cosmetic damage.

Thank you very much Swampy,
That's what I was after ....... that 5 - 10 mm figure.

It looks like I'll have to cut a few long thin wedges and ease the sides away from the chimney frame once I've taken a row of tiles from each side , as there are no visible or accessible fixing screws or nuts /bolts.

Here`s a link to a different cooker hood make(could not find howdens Instructions).
The main hood bracket may be different, ones ive fitted had 2 screws securing just above motor housing(no bracket,hood housing had holes)you could lift hood up & off away from screws.

http://www.rapidmarketingroute.com/...73458_SLCH60C_Curved_Glass_Cooker_Hood_IM.pdf

 

[Plantoid]

Swampy,
Those pictures speak a thousand words and some .

I think it is identical but just branded different to the one we have.

As every thing is almost free I'll set up a platform and try gently easing the whole unit up & on to it once my lass has crawled in the roof void on some boards & freed off the excess spare electric supply cable and vent pipe at the outside flange .

Thank you very, very much

I've printed the sheets off

I'll get back to you and let you know the result.

 

[Plantoid]

Am I mistaken, but I can see fixing screw at the top of the stack, it looks like the stack was not tall enough that is why you have a gap at the bottom. I guess that bottom of the stack hooks around the body of the main hood.

The gap at the bottom is my doing ...... where I managed to lever /slide the cover up ... it does/did reach down to the canopy .

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Well it does not seem that other tradesmen/ have been that thoughtful with regards to accessing the rear of the extractor. it maybe that you may have to remove a column of tiles at both sides to gain access.
Beggars believe that they did not tile behind the unit before fixing!