SIMPLE QUESTION REGARDING A FCU AND A CCU

[1FastLearner]

Afternoon !

following on from some great advice I've received from this site, I've contacted a local electrician
to install an FCU to connect a new extraction hood.....

I would like to buy a FCU's which co-ordinates with the new colour of the Kitchen
(meaning, the MISSUS wants the sockets to match...) so the electrician has advised that I buy either
VOLTEX or MK brands from a respected stockist like ScrewFix or Wickes myself, and he'll supply the
cables required to install them.


now here's the problem.


I've found two FCU's I like, but they are both wired completely differently.

one has the Mains going into the FCU, and then has it come back out again
to re-join the circuit.

//media.diynot.com/107000_106908_13884_94091619_thumb.jpg

but the other FCU has the Mains going in, but it doesn't come back out to
rejoin the circuit.

//media.diynot.com/107000_106908_13883_62181154_thumb.jpg

whats the difference ? or is it a case of preference ?
I just want a safe, reliable connection.


I haven't paid the Electrician yet, and I don't want to keep
harrassing him over small details before he even arrives here.


the advice I've already received on this site (thanks) said that one of the legs
from the existing Socket should go into the FCU and then a second cable should run from the
FCU back to the Socket.

when I shopped on Wickes and ScrewFix that was the connection I was looking for, and that
description matches the wiring of one of the FCU's, above.

but what about the other FCU that doesn't require a Mains leg to run BACK out of the FCU ?



im sure this is a really simple question for you guys....

Before I waste money purchasing both FCU's, and waste time returning whichever one the electrician
doesn't use, can anybody explain the difference between these two ways of wiring the FCU ?

the original socket he'll be using to add the FCU is on a circuit, if that makes any difference.

I have no idea, hence me calling in an expert to connect things for me


ALSO -

I'll be replacing my Cooker too, but I want to know if I need to buy a new Cooker Switch too,

I'd hate to blow up the new cooker, they're not cheap.

any ideas if my Cooker Switch is damaged and needs replacing ?

when I turn on the switch for the SOCKET on the existing Cooker Switch, the LED comes on
even when there is no appliance attached. But when I switch on the actual Cooker Switch itself,
the LED doesn't come on, is this because the old Cooker is no longer connected to the CCU ? or should
the LED come on anyway ? - meaning that my existing Cooker Switch is damaged and I should also
pick up a new one for the Electrician to install as well as the FCU ?

...obviously I'll need to purchase one that matches the colour im painting the Kitchen ! I like a quiet life....



thanks fellas.

Its probably a lot of writing but its really just two simple questions. Cheers !

 

[ricicle]

Both those FCUs do the same job, but one is just shown with a ring circuit feed in (or two cables as part of a radial)
If you have doubts about the cooker switch then replace it as the neons don't last forever. Make sure the new one is suitably rated.

Are you certain your Electrician is happy with you purchasing items for him to fit ?

 

[1FastLearner]

thanks for the reply

yeah he is, I guess the recession must be pinching because when
the missus insisted we pick the FSU to match the Kitchen, I said
that he'll probably want to use his own parts. But he said it was
fine as long as I was prepared to pop out & refund / exhange any
items which he didn't need, and purchase anythng he did need.

thats fair enough.

I expected him to insist on using his own parts, so I already feel
like im pushing it without asking him a million and one questions
about which FCU to purchase etc. hence my post.

I figured they both do the same thing, so your saying that one
FCU is for a Radial (which explains why the Mains doesn't come
back out) and the other FCU is the one I need, as the existing
Socket that the FCU will be attached to is on a Ring Circuit.

thanks for clearing that up,
now I know which own to buy.

Your right about the Cooker Switch too, its ancient, so I'll ask
that the Electrician replaces it.

At the moment its connected on a Radial with 6mm cable from
a 32A MCB. I figured that a 45A Cooker Switch would be fine,
but I'll wait until the Electrician gets here and I'll ask him.

the local ScrewFix isn't that far for me to pop out and get one.

Cheers for the reply, much obliged !

 

[spark1]

As ricicle states either one of the SFCUs will do.

You ask
" can anybody explain the difference between these two ways of wiring the FCU ? ". You dont need to know this if you are bringing in an Electrician.....same answer for the cooker switch enquiry. buy one and the Electrician will sort it.

..Lot of questions for a job already passed on to an Electrician !!!1!

 

[Adam_151]

as others have said, both FCUs are the same, and both can be used in either situation, the difference is simply that the example in the instructions is different


Hes got an odd choice in brands though, this electrician....

Volex is boarding on the cheapo end of the market, MK is higher up and overpriced for what it is (and with funny terminals)

 

[1FastLearner]

Spark 1

of course I need to know the answer, I like to learn.
thats why im here.

besides, im only asking for a "basic idea"

when I took my CCU apart to disconnect my old cooker,
I noticed that it only had the one Mains wire going in, so
I figured that was because the Cooker is on a Radial.

in todays post I was looking to see if the difference in
FCU was related to whether I had a ring circuit / radial.

Ricicle kindly confirmed it was.

im simply asking a forum of experienced people for
their opinion on DIY matters.... surely thats the point ?



__________________________


which leads to another question.
....if anybody could be so kind as to answer it

look at the photo entitled ARE THESE WIRES DANGEROUS ?

//media.diynot.com/107000_106908_13885_41538984_thumb.jpg

while decorating my Kitchen I've discovered 2 loose
wires coming from the Ceiling (all Mains come from the
Ceiling on the Ground Floor in my house)

these wires were hidden behind wood shielding the
Mains Water Pipes running up to my Loft.

the pair of white cables in the photo run down and connect
a Double Switch to my Circuit System, so those wires are
both accounted for, but the pair of Grey 2.5mm cables don't
connect to anything at all in the Kitchen...

OBVIOUSLY im going to have the electrician have a look
when he arrives, but in the mean time, is there anything
I can do to make them safer ? the Copper Pipes have
been Earthed (does that make them any more safe ?)

I've tried gentley pulling both Grey Wires (with Mains Power
off) to see if they are loose but they are connected to
something upstairs, under the floor.

so without tearing the floorboards off upstairs, is there
anything either an Electrician or myself can do to make
the "bare" ends of those wires safer ?

maybe cap them off ? or do I need to take the floorboards
up ? I'll let the expert decide when he arrives at my house.
All I ask for this sunny Sunday afternoon are Opinions

something to think about while I flick between the Ashes
and the Afternoon Kick Off.


Much Obliged Gentlemen.

 

[1FastLearner]

well, he asked what brands I already have,

I have MK
all throughout the house.

he said I should stick with MK, or Volex would be just
as good & said I could pick up a single FCU at Wickes
or ScrewFix for about a Fiver.

As far as price-wise, not sure I'd call "one" extra quid
over-priced (ScrewFix) but to each their own.



tell me, out of pure interest,
which brand would you recommend ?

i'll be sticking with MK, they've served well thus far.
and thats the only brand I'd previously heard of.

but I'll happily hear your opinion on a better brand.

 

[mikhailfaradayski]

i would recommend the brand the your missus likes the most.

 

[sparkyspike]

If you have MK in the house then get that. I personally don't use them by choice because I don't like the terminals (especially on light switches). I also don't use Volex. I tend to use Crabtree or GET faceplates.

But there's nothing wrong with MK and some people prefer them.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

whats the difference ? or is it a case of preference ?
I just want a safe, reliable connection.

Then don't worry - unlike some people your electrician will spot that those FCUs do in fact have the same terminals but are just connected differently.

I haven't paid the Electrician yet, and I don't want to keep
harrassing him over small details before he even arrives here.

Then just let him do his job.

the advice I've already received on this site (thanks) said that one of the legs
from the existing Socket should go into the FCU and then a second cable should run from the
FCU back to the Socket.

Fair enough, but don't worry - unlike some people your electrician won't need advice from this site on how to wire up an FCU.

the original socket he'll be using to add the FCU is on a circuit, if that makes any difference.

Only if you consider working vs not working a difference.

I have no idea

Good job you're using an electrician then, or you'd be breaking the law and putting lives at risk.

I'll be replacing my Cooker too, but I want to know if I need to buy a new Cooker Switch too,

I'd hate to blow up the new cooker, they're not cheap.

Don't worry - unlike some people your electrician will know that a switch can't blow up an appliance.

in todays post I was looking to see if the difference in
FCU was related to whether I had a ring circuit / radial.

Ricicle kindly confirmed it was.

No - Ricicle confirmed that there were no differences between the FCUs.

But don't worry - unlike some people your electrician will understand the concept.

im simply asking a forum of experienced people for
their opinion on DIY matters.... surely thats the point ?

It is.

Are you DIYing then?

OBVIOUSLY im going to have the electrician have a look
when he arrives

That would be best - unlike some people your electrician will know how to tell if they are safe or not.

so without tearing the floorboards off upstairs, is there
anything either an Electrician or myself can do to make
the "bare" ends of those wires safer ?

There may be things he can do. Or he may need to lift the boards.

I'll let the expert decide when he arrives at my house.

So you keep saying.

Are you worried that we might not believe you for some reason?

 

[spark1]

Well Posted Ban !

Explained much more concisely than I could ever do




Regards Spark 1

 

[1FastLearner]

well,

from some of the answers I received I was given the impression that perhaps a few here
had doubts as to whether I was calling in an electrician or not.

If such doubts were true, I would like to think that anyone here who WORRIED ABOUT MY
OR MY FAMILIES SAFETY would have had the common courtesy, sense & perhaps BOTTLE
to simply enquirer if the original poster definitely intended on calling in a Spark for the job.

you know ? address the matter in a frank manner ?

As opposed to beating around the bush. I could have allayed all "suspicion" much earlier
and received more information if the doubters actually aired their doubts.

seriously, the next time I or anybody else posts and you have a DOUBT as to whether they
intend to do dangerous or illegal work themselves....

...cut out the subtle "comments"
...cut out the sarcasm
...and simply enquire whether the original poster really intends to call an expert, & if they
are aware of the health risks & legal implications of doing the work themselves.


Surely nobody here was born with DIY knowledge ?

im not sure how old some of you are, I can guess, but for my generation the Internet is a
RESOURCE TOOL, used to gain INFORMATION on anything.

whether its plumbing or bricklaying, I've learned alot on this website. when I convert my
attic i'm sure I'll be back to learn alot more too....

I am here to gain information, so I can have a better idea what the Spark is doing, and be
able to ask better questions once he's here.

I already have a much better idea about what he'll be doing just from the basic information
i've been given here. So im in a position of ask better questions & understand the answers.

Gaining a basic understanding of wiring a simple FCU doesn't mean that I'll be rushing out
to do the work myself....

I have no intention of killing myself to save a few bob, lol.

I could talk all day about NASA TECHNOLOGY on a NASA ENTHUSIAST website, that doesn't
mean I intend on flying a ROCKET anytime soon does it ?

perhaps some of you should act less like Policemen carrying out draconian anti-terrorism
legislation, & simply advise people like myself of the dangers & illegality of not hiring a Pro.

for instance, you've noted such work would be ILLEGAL if I were to do it myself - under
which law ? thats not a challenge, im interested & you didn't say. look at my screen-name.


im here to learn.

& funnily enough, I wasn't born with DIY knowledge, and I don't have a death wish....

...the missus would kill me if I died


so remember my screen name.
I enjoy using this website and I ask many questions on here. so if you ever have a concern or
doubt about a question I raise, please don't dance or skip or fanny about around the bush

be open and specific about your doubt, and air your concerns frankly....

...so until next time.
________________________


much obliged GENTLEMEN.
APOLOGIES for the length of my post,
and thank you for your INFORMATION.

 

[1FastLearner]

i would recommend the brand the your missus likes the most.

^wise words of wisdom

 

[1FastLearner]

If you have MK in the house then get that. I personally don't use them by choice because I don't like the terminals (especially on light switches). I also don't use Volex. I tend to use Crabtree or GET faceplates.

But there's nothing wrong with MK and some people prefer them.

cheers. im being harressed to purchase black switches to match
the tiles I've been ordered to put up

my existing MK cooker switch (its in my photos) seems like an
industry standard to a degree, because I've seen the design
everywhere over the years. Ideally I'd stick with that, but I don't
think they do black

I'll have a look at Crab Tree, they do a nice looking one in Black
Nickel - costs the same as 6 MK switches tho

oh well, Wickes and ScrewFix aren't too far, I'll see how it goes
when I get down there, I can always pop out and change it if I get
it wrong. Cheers

 

[mikhailfaradayski]

Hi Fast learner,

Don't take it to heart to much and forgive the cynics here, but when DIYers are asking detailed questions which would enable them to do the work themselves, its not a leap of logic to assume that they do actually intend to do it themselves.

Most people who do actually have a real flesh and blood sparky ( not the fictitious types ) don't bother to ask these sorts of questions, why would they? why get a dog and bark yourself!?

I would hazard a guess that for every 1 real electrician there are at least 50 figments of the imagination. I know us sparkies are a low form of life, no where near as valuable as a painter/decorator or a bin man. But even given our limited interllect, we stop falling for the same line after a few years of hearing it.

Maybe you are the odd one out here, i don't question your honesty, i'm just trying to illustrate why these point of view exist.

I understand what you say about the NASA analogy, but even if you had no intention of building bombs or planning terrorist atrocities, some might question you and scrutinise your motives for looking at web sites dealing with these issues.

Look up building regulations, approved document Part P. It is law and readily available on the internet. This is the law you would be breaking.