Afternoon !
following on from some great advice I've received from this site, I've contacted a local electrician
to install an FCU to connect a new extraction hood.....
I would like to buy a FCU's which co-ordinates with the new colour of the Kitchen
(meaning, the MISSUS wants the sockets to match...) so the electrician has advised that I buy either
VOLTEX or MK brands from a respected stockist like ScrewFix or Wickes myself, and he'll supply the
cables required to install them.
now here's the problem.
I've found two FCU's I like, but they are both wired completely differently.
one has the Mains going into the FCU, and then has it come back out again
to re-join the circuit.
//media.diynot.com/107000_106908_13884_94091619_thumb.jpg
but the other FCU has the Mains going in, but it doesn't come back out to
rejoin the circuit.
//media.diynot.com/107000_106908_13883_62181154_thumb.jpg
whats the difference ? or is it a case of preference ?
I just want a safe, reliable connection.
I haven't paid the Electrician yet, and I don't want to keep
harrassing him over small details before he even arrives here.
the advice I've already received on this site (thanks) said that one of the legs
from the existing Socket should go into the FCU and then a second cable should run from the
FCU back to the Socket.
when I shopped on Wickes and ScrewFix that was the connection I was looking for, and that
description matches the wiring of one of the FCU's, above.
but what about the other FCU that doesn't require a Mains leg to run BACK out of the FCU ?
im sure this is a really simple question for you guys....
Before I waste money purchasing both FCU's, and waste time returning whichever one the electrician
doesn't use, can anybody explain the difference between these two ways of wiring the FCU ?
the original socket he'll be using to add the FCU is on a circuit, if that makes any difference.
I have no idea, hence me calling in an expert to connect things for me
ALSO -
I'll be replacing my Cooker too, but I want to know if I need to buy a new Cooker Switch too,
I'd hate to blow up the new cooker, they're not cheap.
any ideas if my Cooker Switch is damaged and needs replacing ?
when I turn on the switch for the SOCKET on the existing Cooker Switch, the LED comes on
even when there is no appliance attached. But when I switch on the actual Cooker Switch itself,
the LED doesn't come on, is this because the old Cooker is no longer connected to the CCU ? or should
the LED come on anyway ? - meaning that my existing Cooker Switch is damaged and I should also
pick up a new one for the Electrician to install as well as the FCU ?
...obviously I'll need to purchase one that matches the colour im painting the Kitchen ! I like a quiet life....
thanks fellas.
Its probably a lot of writing but its really just two simple questions. Cheers !
following on from some great advice I've received from this site, I've contacted a local electrician
to install an FCU to connect a new extraction hood.....
I would like to buy a FCU's which co-ordinates with the new colour of the Kitchen
(meaning, the MISSUS wants the sockets to match...) so the electrician has advised that I buy either
VOLTEX or MK brands from a respected stockist like ScrewFix or Wickes myself, and he'll supply the
cables required to install them.
now here's the problem.
I've found two FCU's I like, but they are both wired completely differently.
one has the Mains going into the FCU, and then has it come back out again
to re-join the circuit.
//media.diynot.com/107000_106908_13884_94091619_thumb.jpg
but the other FCU has the Mains going in, but it doesn't come back out to
rejoin the circuit.
//media.diynot.com/107000_106908_13883_62181154_thumb.jpg
whats the difference ? or is it a case of preference ?
I just want a safe, reliable connection.
I haven't paid the Electrician yet, and I don't want to keep
harrassing him over small details before he even arrives here.
the advice I've already received on this site (thanks) said that one of the legs
from the existing Socket should go into the FCU and then a second cable should run from the
FCU back to the Socket.
when I shopped on Wickes and ScrewFix that was the connection I was looking for, and that
description matches the wiring of one of the FCU's, above.
but what about the other FCU that doesn't require a Mains leg to run BACK out of the FCU ?
im sure this is a really simple question for you guys....
Before I waste money purchasing both FCU's, and waste time returning whichever one the electrician
doesn't use, can anybody explain the difference between these two ways of wiring the FCU ?
the original socket he'll be using to add the FCU is on a circuit, if that makes any difference.
I have no idea, hence me calling in an expert to connect things for me
ALSO -
I'll be replacing my Cooker too, but I want to know if I need to buy a new Cooker Switch too,
I'd hate to blow up the new cooker, they're not cheap.
any ideas if my Cooker Switch is damaged and needs replacing ?
when I turn on the switch for the SOCKET on the existing Cooker Switch, the LED comes on
even when there is no appliance attached. But when I switch on the actual Cooker Switch itself,
the LED doesn't come on, is this because the old Cooker is no longer connected to the CCU ? or should
the LED come on anyway ? - meaning that my existing Cooker Switch is damaged and I should also
pick up a new one for the Electrician to install as well as the FCU ?
...obviously I'll need to purchase one that matches the colour im painting the Kitchen ! I like a quiet life....
thanks fellas.
Its probably a lot of writing but its really just two simple questions. Cheers !