Skirtings - To Scribe or Not?

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Hi all,

My first of many posts here I think :LOL:

I have skirtings and architrave to replace in four rooms. I got a good deal on some Ogee profile material in MDF and bought an Evolution 210 sliding mitre saw also. I have a large selection of other tools.

Having only needed to cut 45 degree angles on architrave, and externals on skirtings before I don't have as much experience on internal joins. To that end what's the consensus on scribing? Better or worse than a standard mitre? My walls should be good and fairly true as its a 90s house, straight boards which are just being reskimmed.

Any advice greatly appreciated. ;)
 
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wood only shrinks accross the grain so on a scribe you only have shrinkage on the unscribed section causing a gap as the scribed portion slide along the face
where as a miter both faces move away from the miter

incidentally the same shrinkage causes outer miters to tighten
 
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It would actually be harder to mitre an internal corner the slightist thing goes wrong and your up the creek with the job If you are new to scribing joints try cutting a mitre on the end of the skirting to be scribed, the outer edge of the cut on the face gives you a perfect scribe line
 
wood only shrinks accross the grain so on a scribe you only have shrinkage on the unscribed section causing a gap as the scribed portion slide along the face
where as a miter both faces move away from the miter

incidentally the same shrinkage causes outer miters to tighten
MDF, so no shrinkage to worry about. ;)
 
I did wonder about the grain shrinkage :LOL: I'll give the scribe method a go, I have all the tools anyway. Thanks guys.
 
What's the general consensus on fitting the skirting against the floor, or leaving a slight gap for floor movement? It's a 90s house with large sections of chipboard screwed / nailed onto the joists.
 
if your are going to fit a floating floor then fit the skirting after
otherwise tight to the floor as you wont stop the draughts unless you do
 
if your are going to fit a floating floor then fit the skirting after
otherwise tight to the floor as you wont stop the draughts unless you do

Cheers. it's carpet that's going down so will be tight to the floor then.
 
What's the general consensus on fitting the skirting against the floor, or leaving a slight gap for floor movement? It's a 90s house with large sections of chipboard screwed / nailed onto the joists.

I normally slip a thin piece of card under the skirting (single layer cereal box) when mounting so that you end up with a narrow gap underneath. That way you have the option to slide paper underneath the skirting later when you come to redecorate / paint the skirting again.

Saves a lot of faff with masking tape etc....
 
What's the general consensus on fitting the skirting against the floor, or leaving a slight gap for floor movement? It's a 90s house with large sections of chipboard screwed / nailed onto the joists.

I normally slip a thin piece of card under the skirting (single layer cereal box) when mounting so that you end up with a narrow gap underneath. That way you have the option to slide paper underneath the skirting later when you come to redecorate / paint the skirting again.

Saves a lot of faff with masking tape etc....

I use a 4mm spacer so that carpet can be easily tucked in without damaging the skirting.

If you're worried about draughts, run some silicone or something into the gap.
 
Thanks to all who've helped thus far. Today has been a nightmare...... My scribing is terrible; no matter how careful I am. In fact I'm finding 45 degree mitres on the internals are lovely and tight, yet if I scribe they are, frankly, rubbish!

The other problem is the architrave around the door. I've got the vertical sections cut prefectly, but the horizontal section won't fit well at all. I have a sneaky feeling that my newly skimmed walls are slightly out around the door frames. This could be making the joins go out.

I reckon I'm going to have to run my sander with 60 or 80 grit around the frames to bring the plaster in a little to the depth of the frames.
 
If you want to stop the drafts, which is a good idea, then simply fitting the skirting close to the floor won't do the trick. Personally I would and do fill the gap properly then fit the skirting. I always leave a ~6mm gap so the carpet can be tucked under, but I do fill all the gaps.

Assuming you have a damp proof course the simplest way to fill the gap is a bag of browning or hardwall undercoat plaster. Also means the skirting can't get knocked in.

Depending how easy it is to do if everything is up and it is a ground floor floating floor, think about fitting some insulation under it. The difference it makes is substantial.
 

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