socket off lighting circuit in loft

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Hi,

I am currently redecorating a bathroom and would like to change the lighing pullcord to a hidden switch behind some plasterboard. I have found these, http://www.taptilecontrols.com/bathroom/products.htm, which will do the job but I have a question.

There are currently 3 downlighters in the bathroom but for the taptile switch to work it needs a 5V feed from a plug in adaptor. I want to put the adaptor in the loft, it's similar to a mobile phone charger, but there is no sockets up there. Is it possible to take a 3A socket off the lighting circuit which is in the loft for this adaptor or will i need to put a 13A socket into the loft.

Thanks for your help.

James
 
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If the socket was to serve the purpose to supply the 5V adaptor only, then there would be no issue in doing what you are suggesting with regards to socket outlet from lighting circuit.
 
Is it possible to take a 3A socket off the lighting circuit
No such thing.

There are (were)

mk_2a_socket_outlet_large_1.jpg


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2A sockets



slimline-white-5-amp-round-pin-socket-large.jpg


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5A sockets


But your power supply won't fit in those.
 
Theory and practice are two different things.

In theory you should not fit a 13A socket to the lighting circuit as something could be plugged into the socket which could result in the lighting supply failing plunging you into darkness.

In practice it is often done to power items like TV boosters but I would write on the socket lighting transformer only or something like that.

If you fit it and your living in the house it's unlikely you would plug something in it likely to trip the lighting supply. However some one doing an electrical installation condition report could not be faulted for listing it as a non complaint item. But often the report is being done with the idea there will be a new occupier.

If it were my house I would fit a 13A socket however if asked to do it on a customers house I would not.

5V DC is a common size and there are items like this
572078_pw_203033.jpg
which can supply 5 VDC without using a 13A socket but clearly they would then require a USB plug fitting to the unit instead of using the supplied transformer.

I would just fit a 13A socket but there are clearly other ways around the problem.
 
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It is possible for identification reasons, to have the socket outlet engraved with the it's purpose of use. Most electrical wholesalers will offer this service.

As the adaptor will be pre-moulded plug, and very likely that of the 13A variety, then you are restricted to the type of outlet you can install. So if in loft for sole purpose of the bathroom lighting, then I would not be to concerned, about the potential of overloading the circuit.
 
Before you commit to these behind a tile switches consider what would be necessary to replace a defective switch.

Also consider the effect that other wireless equipment may have on the operation of these switches. There many types of wireless connected equipment that use the same frequency. From radio controlled model helicopters to burglar alarms, from baby monitoring equipment to car key fobs, and next door's home automation system. There are many now and in the future there will be more.
 
Thanks everyone for the help. The socket was going to be in the corner of the loft where you have to scramble over rafters to get to it so hopefully i won`t think about plugging anything else into the socket. Also the socket will have the 5V adapter plugged into it which will stop the lights in the bathroom from working.

I believe the wireless system works on a pairing system and is short range, less than 3M, so even if other systems are on the same frequency they shouldn`t interfere with each other but thanks for the info.

If it all fails in the future i`ll put a pull cord in.

Many thanks

James
 
But it seems to me that as there have to be wires running down to the sensor switch anyway, then simply using a product which is wired to a controller that itself is wired into the lighting circuit removes both the socket and wireless interference concerns.


http://www.sensor.co.uk/


Simples? :confused:
 
I sort of agree with the thinking but unfortunatly my wallet doesn`t. I did look at these first but the cost on the controllers is around £70 per switch whereas the taptile is only around £35 for a starter pack containing an on/off fan controller and two inline dimmer controllers. Still researching which option is the best to go for so thanks for the advice
 
Indeed.

It is quite common, in all sorts of fields, for cheap solutions to be problematic and compromised.
 
I did consider the FCU and 1A fuse but with a 6A MCB I know for experience these can trip before a 1A fuse will blow so it could give one a false sense of security.

RF interference is quite common. Many rely on Dual-tone multi-frequency signalling DTMF to stop other items effecting them. It will stop other items switching on the lights but will not stop other items swamping the system stopping the the lights from working.

Some time the results are unexpected my sisters car lock played a different tune to normal on my sons door bell handy if he wanted to hide from my sister.

Most work on a shared band with Radio Hams and the Hams have priority so with a few mW compared with up to 400 W from radio ham guess which wins?

Having the door bell ring once or twice when it should not is not really a problem but having bathroom lights find a mind of their own is really a problem where tiles need replacing to correct the fault.

I can monitor the 70 cm band and I know near my house the only person who is likely to cause a problem is me. But I would not use RF switching for the lights. Door bell yes lights no.
 
what a lot of hassle if/when it goes wrong!

Maybe fit a switch outside the bathroom, in fact that wouldn't be a bad idea as a back up if that thing failed.
 
Hi, I have a non switched 13a socket fed of the lighting circuit to power a TV amp i have marked it 5a max !

Kind Regards,

DS
 

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