Socket smells when in use

The problem with the 3 gang converter in your utility room is that it is fitted with a 13A fuse protecting all 3 sockets- that means the combined load on all 3 sockets should not exceed 13A. Your washer and dryer together will be doing between 16 and 26 amps- bit of a mismatch there, no wonder the fuse carrier is getting hot.

The 2 gang converter doesn't have a fuse in it, running 26A through it all the time won't be sensible but theoretically won't overload it (though if you do buy one, do read the detail about what current it is designed to safely carry).

3 gang converter in the bedroom supplying (say) a reading lamp, phone charger, alarm clock- no problem there, total load about 1 amp. Even using an extension cable is fine as long as you're not using multiple heavy current devices on the 3 gang converter.
 
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You may add up the 'Watts' printed on your devices.
For example: TV - mine is 180 Watts
240 Watts is 1 Amp current

Your WM, if new, likely 1700 - 2000, 7 or 8A
TD may be 3000, 12.5A[/QUOTE]
 
(as long as you avoid running washer and dryer at the same time)

That's not really realistic though, is it?

It's a socket in a utility room with washing machine and tumble drier attached; it's the classic example of an outlet with potentially high current requirement.
 
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Yes, but it has not been installed correctly with that in mind.

Just because someone has put something in a utility room does not suddenly make it suitable.
 
(as long as you avoid running washer and dryer at the same time)

That's not really realistic though, is it?

It's a socket in a utility room with washing machine and tumble drier attached; it's the classic example of an outlet with potentially high current requirement.

Not an ideal setup I agree, short of telling the poor bloke to spend a fortune what ya gonna do. At least junking the 3 gang fused thing will remove that overheating issue, don't know about you but me (like I suspect the OP) would tend to run a load of washing and THEN stick it in the dryer. Rare occasions where both are on = not ideal but not the end of the world.

And why is anyone using a tumble dryer this time of year?- been scorchio today, last few weeks knickers have been on the line :)
 
And why is anyone using a tumble dryer this time of year?- been scorchio today, last few weeks knickers have been on the line :)

Fortnights holiday washing including a 6 month old and 4 year olds clothes (which are never ending).
 
The problem with the 3 gang converter in your utility room is that it is fitted with a 13A fuse protecting all 3 sockets- that means the combined load on all 3 sockets should not exceed 13A. Your washer and dryer together will be doing between 16 and 26 amps- bit of a mismatch there, no wonder the fuse carrier is getting hot.

Shouldn't the fuse be stopping more than 13A from being pulled? Why hasn't that blown long ago I wonder? Do 13A fuses actually do what they sound like they are supposed to do?
 
Do 13A fuses actually do what they sound like they are supposed to do?
In the way you have asked the question, the answer is likely - not as far as most people think.
It is not possible for fuses to carry 13A (for ever) then melt at 13.1A so there is a tolerance - fusing factor of 1.45.
That is, it shall blow in 1 hour at 18.85A (13x1.45) - progressively quicker at higher currents

However, accessories and cables should take this into account.
Everyone seems to be blaming the fuse for causing the heat but the accessory fuse holder and/or conductors and body should be able to cope.
 
However, accessories and cables should take this into account.
Everyone seems to be blaming the fuse for causing the heat but the accessory fuse holder and/or conductors and body should be able to cope.
Don't see why, necessarily - at least not for the fuse itself.

They are never, ever supposed to be used with a load of more than 13A, so when misused and overloaded, why should they be able to cope?
 
The heating element in a washer may not run continuously for long. Mine runs for about 15 minutes, and ticks on and off when the motor is churning.
 
Don't see why, necessarily - at least not for the fuse itself.

They are never, ever supposed to be used with a load of more than 13A, so when misused and overloaded, why should they be able to cope?
So just put on a label saying "Do not overload".


The manufacturers know about the fusing factors.

The same overload may be caused by a fault so surely they have to cope.
If not, then what is the fuse's purpose? It is not, in this case, to protect any cable.
If the purpose therefore is to protect the accessory, then the accessory has to withstand the known expected current until the fuse blows.

It's the same as the CCCs of cables allow for the time until OPDs operate.
 
So just put on a label saying "Do not overload".
Chances are that it does say somewhere that the maximum load is 13A.


The manufacturers know about the fusing factors.
But can do nothing about them.


The same overload may be caused by a fault so surely they have to cope.
In the same way that the fuse in a BS 1363 plug would cope with 17A for hours on end?

A fault is not the same as an overload, and an overload is not the same as a fault.


If not, then what is the fuse's purpose? It is not, in this case, to protect any cable.
If the purpose therefore is to protect the accessory, then the accessory has to withstand the known expected current until the fuse blows.
Not if the standard does not require it. You're beginning to sound like stillp.

The known expected current is either 13A, or a fault current of 100's of A. Not a sustained overload of 17A.


It's the same as the CCCs of cables allow for the time until OPDs operate.
BS 1363 sockets are not required to cope with sustained loads greatly in excess of 13A.
 

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