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Solid Wood Worktop Installation when bowed

Discussion in 'Wood / Woodwork / Carpentry' started by DazJWood, 21 Nov 2015.

  1. DazJWood

    DazJWood

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    As an update I took the the joints apart and left the worktops unfixed in situ. I used a couple of straight lengths of wood as battons and placed these across either the bowed or cupped areas. Another offcut of worktop on the top and some more weight on top of that. Gradually over the last couple of weeks the worktops now are level and sit directly on the cabinet tops without any packers.

    I'm ready to refix the joints and fix them to the cabinets now. I'm reading differing advice on whether to use silicon or PVA for the butt joints. Instructions that came with the worktops say to use PVA.

    I am guessing people will stick to what has worked best for them in the past. My only query with PVA though is that is the joints move again over time then surely it's going to be more difficult to bring them back in line again if they have been glued together. Where as silicon will come off fairly easily.

    Any thoughts?

    Thanks for all the advice so far.

    Daz
     
  2. AronSearle

    AronSearle

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    PVA will provide a stronger bond, but will not flex if the worktops try to expand (so the bond will shear or small splits will appear).

    Silicon will more easily lose bond adhesion over time with wood, which may allow moisture into the joint if not rectified.

    So pro's and cons to both.

    Personally I would use silicon, and keep a carefull eye on it for failure that will let water in.
     
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  4. DazJWood

    DazJWood

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    Great! Thanks for the advice!!
     
  5. WabbitPoo

    WabbitPoo

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    I would have thought biscuit jointing might help. Its a shame (to my eyes) that the the surfaces are just butt jointed and not jointed like laminates normally are (with a mitred angle on the first few inches)...I think what you have looks very ...... clumsy-looking.
     
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