Stud wall?????

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just a quick question.

What size timber is standard to create stud walls? the wall will need to be about 3.5 - 4m long.

Cheers
Andy
 
4” x 2” studs spaced every 600mm with horizontal noggins as stated, obviously adjust for any doors. Use screws rather than nails, stronger & causes less disturbance to existing structure; line with 12.5mm plasterboard.
 
4” x 2” studs spaced every 1200mm with horizontal noggins as stated, obviously adjust for any doors. Use screws rather than nails, stronger & causes less disturbance to existing structure; line with 12.5mm plasterboard.
Don't you mean max 600 centres? 1200 ctrs would leave the plasterboard as wobbly as ****.
The partitions in my house, believe it or not, are 50mm thick using 25x25 battens! I know this cos' I witnessed them being built, you wouldn't know it to look though & obviously wouldn't comply these days, flat & rigid though 9 years on! I wouldn't recomend going that small though, a bit of a pain if you wannt to fix anything substantial to them but goes to show.
 
Don't you mean max 600 centres? 1200 ctrs would leave the plasterboard as wobbly as ****.
Ooops, well spotted :oops: ; absolutely right & of course I meant to say 600mm centres, sorry for any confusion :roll: .

a bit of a pain if you wannt to fix anything substantial to them
Something worth consider when building the stud work; either put some extra noggins in at the appropriate position/height or even a lump of decent plywood if you intend mounting something like a flat screen TV. :wink:
 
I always use treated 4"x2" for stud work as its only marginally more expensive and will outlast the regular CLS stuff.
 
For stud walls, you really need 400mm or 450mm centres as 600mm is ok for ceilings but ain't much good at impact resistance.

Then again, i must be the only builder that orders roof trusses at 450mm centres. :roll:
 
For stud walls, you really need 400mm or 450mm centres as 600mm is ok for ceilings but ain't much good at impact resistance.

Then again, i must be the only builder that orders roof trusses at 450mm centres. :roll:
Use 400mm centres with 3" x 2" but 600mm is fine if with 4" x 2" & screws makes it nice & rigid; it’s is all I ever use faced with screw fixed, 12.5mm boards & plaster skimmed; you’d have a job to punch a hole in it! :lol:
 
4 x 2 it is then,

space the uprights 600mm apart and then put horizontal noggins (screwed) every 3ft?

Does that sound about right?
 
400mm centres for a wall with 12.5 boards, even if you was using 8x2 for studding, its the board that's weak not the stud.
 
I always use treated 4"x2" for stud work as its only marginally more expensive and will outlast the regular CLS stuff.

How will it out last CLS?

CLS is used in timber framed buildings as an external leaf, so there is nothing wrong with using it for a mere stud wall

The good thing will CLS is that you have more of a chance of getting straight timbers to help with framing.

Also, CLS will be kiln dried, which regular 4x2 wont be, and so the timbers will contract after the wall is built, which could loosen joints and cause some bowing to the plasterboards

Spacing is determined by the board sizes - if using 900 boards then the vertical studs are at 450 c/c, if 1200 boards then you can use 600 spacings. But if 600 spacings then you should have 12.5mm boards and not 9.5mm ones

Horizontal noggins at mid-way of the boards, and at the ends if the boards are not full height.

Don't forget extra struts for radiators or shelves etc, and remember minimum depths for electric cables or else they need protection
 
Well I see your point about the movement of treated 4"x2". Plained CLS will be easier to work with for sure but in wet areas or any areas where moisture content is going to be higher surely a treated timber would be the better option? Of course you could pay a premium for treated CLS...
 
Then again, i must be the only builder that orders roof trusses at 450mm centres. :roll:
Why?

Roofing battens (lathes) and knots. I hate 600mm centres.

A knot in a lath between rafters can lead to snapping and a big hole in the felt. If this happens to occur near a valley then it can be a right pain as i always insist tears are fixed.

It is only a few quid more for an extra couple of trusses.

Also, you can get a small amount of plasterboard sag between the joist chords, if the boards have been fixed for a while and not skimmed.
 

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