Do children still get to learn the times table by rote any more ?
Dunno. Mine did, ~35 years ago, even though a lot of other aspects of teaching had changed dramatically by then - but it may have 'got worse', since (i.e. suffered from further 'improvements').
I recall we all have to learn everything up to 12x12 - though I admit that a lot of the larger numbers have since gone away through lack of use. I also recall that we were not allowed calculators until fairly late on, for the obvious reason that if you only ever use a calculator then you'll never learn to do it without.
Indeed. If I recall, we had to 'recite' most, if not all, of the "times tales" first thing every morning, for a year or two. I'm talking about the late 50s, so the question of "not being allowed calculators" obviously didn't arise

I think one more recent improvement is that I think the clock has been turned back a little and calculators banned in at least some 'lower school' exams, maybe even GCSEs.
It was so drummed into me all those years ago that I think I can probably still fairly easily remember everything up to 12 x 12 plus some of '13' and (for specific reasons) a fair bit of '16' - plus a few other fairly random ones (like 17 x 3 - don't ask me

), not to mention 'squares' (and some 'cubes') up to about 25.
And there is also the art of approximating to get a "near enough" answer - so you can spot if you've made a gross error while (eg) using a calculator.
Very much so, particularly at A-Level. In my day, the issue wasn't calculators (which didn't exist) but slide rules (as well as log tables), which didn't even pretend to tell one "where to put the decimal point", let alone whether one's answer was even vaguely sensible. For A-Level exams, we were generally expected to 'show' our approximate calculations and, in relevant cases of expressions, to also show rough 'sketch graphs' of functions, both of which, I think, were 'marked'. Indeed, even if one got the answers wrong, a lot of credit was given for 'the working'.
My daughters
did do this approximating for GCSE, when they obviously were using calculators.
Is this the point where we start moaning about "kids today"
If we did, that wouldn't really be fair on them, since we are talking about the ways in which the system has 'improved' teaching methods over the years.
Not really 'my fields' at all, but (although I think they have probably gone too far), the way that subjects like History, Geography, Religious Studies etc. are now taught in schools has changed dramatically, and is now more like university education in those subjects, focussing much more on concepts/principles, sources (and critical evaluation of sources) than on rote learning of lists of names, dates etc. etc. They probably would not have a clue as to the significance of "1066", but could probably have an intelligent discussion about "evidence of when the Battle of Hastings actually happened". Even science subjects, much closer to my heart, now major more on concepts/principles than just 'fact learning'.
Kind Regards, John