Switch wire. 2 of 3 are live!
- Thread starter Riki
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Thanks endecotp. I'll do that.
Like everyone else, I'm waiting for you to spot the mistake in Room 1- it won't affect the function of the lamp but it is poor practice and misleading.
In Room 2 I suspect that you've got the incoming neutral (black wire) on its own connected to the lamp live and the switch return connected to the outgoing neutral (that goes to your other light fittings that are no longer working along with lamp 2). So as wired currently, the 2 black wires joined together are either at floating potential (with the switch off) or are live (with the switch on). A conductor at floating potential would very probably light your sh*tey neon screwdriver, it might even show some voltage on a budget multimeter but it'll be 176v or something like and fluctuating wildly rather than 230v or more.
In your defence, you did take photos of the 'before' wiring, which is why I think a lot of people on here are cutting you some slack. Lesson for the future- identify your cables clearly for the pic- don't rely on tape on the cores, that usually falls off when you pull the old rose off. Sharpies work well..... And please don't go swapping wires based on what I've just said without metering the cables through and positively identifying what goes where.
In Room 2 I suspect that you've got the incoming neutral (black wire) on its own connected to the lamp live and the switch return connected to the outgoing neutral (that goes to your other light fittings that are no longer working along with lamp 2). So as wired currently, the 2 black wires joined together are either at floating potential (with the switch off) or are live (with the switch on). A conductor at floating potential would very probably light your sh*tey neon screwdriver, it might even show some voltage on a budget multimeter but it'll be 176v or something like and fluctuating wildly rather than 230v or more.
In your defence, you did take photos of the 'before' wiring, which is why I think a lot of people on here are cutting you some slack. Lesson for the future- identify your cables clearly for the pic- don't rely on tape on the cores, that usually falls off when you pull the old rose off. Sharpies work well..... And please don't go swapping wires based on what I've just said without metering the cables through and positively identifying what goes where.
Spot the mistake in Room 1? Please enlighten me. Thanks for coming in.
Got one! Can you now please tell me how to use it? What is the setting to test continuity of wires? Thanks.
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I suggest you go to YouTube and search for "How to use a multimeter"
I cannot confirm the accuracy of any of the content though.
I cannot confirm the accuracy of any of the content though.
Thanks but all I need is advice for simply testing continuity of wires and especially to make sure that the switched live wire is in the correct connection. I am trying to simplify my task and cut down on reading and watching videos which, BTW, I have already done plenty. Thanks again for your help.
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Oh dear.
After continuity you'll need to test for voltage. I need to simplify my task and not have to spend my time telling people how to do the simplest thing!!!!.
The meter comes with an instruction book. Look under continuity......RTFM!!! /rant over/
OK. I'll try to help, a little.
I asssume the thing has batteries in it and a display is shown when its switched (see "switching on" in the manual)
With the leads in the sockets per your picture, move the control knob round to the half past 5 position (the symbol that looks like a speaker between the 200 and teh hfe position)
touch the two test leads together, you should get a beep. That shows continuity. That is how you test continuity.
Simples
PS
Before you experiment on your house wiring you need to turn off the voltage and use the multimeter on the voltage range to confirm the power is disconnected.
But then you'll need to test for voltage.......
After continuity you'll need to test for voltage. I need to simplify my task and not have to spend my time telling people how to do the simplest thing!!!!.
The meter comes with an instruction book. Look under continuity......RTFM!!! /rant over/
OK. I'll try to help, a little.
I asssume the thing has batteries in it and a display is shown when its switched (see "switching on" in the manual)
With the leads in the sockets per your picture, move the control knob round to the half past 5 position (the symbol that looks like a speaker between the 200 and teh hfe position)
touch the two test leads together, you should get a beep. That shows continuity. That is how you test continuity.
Simples
PS
Before you experiment on your house wiring you need to turn off the voltage and use the multimeter on the voltage range to confirm the power is disconnected.
But then you'll need to test for voltage.......
Oh dear.
After continuity you'll need to test for voltage. I need to simplify my task and not have to spend my time telling people how to do the simplest thing!!!!.
The meter comes with an instruction book. Look under continuity......RTFM!!! /rant over/
OK. I'll try to help, a little.
I asssume the thing has batteries in it and a display is shown when its switched (see "switching on" in the manual)
With the leads in the sockets per your picture, move the control knob round to the half past 5 position (the symbol that looks like a speaker between the 200 and teh hfe position)
touch the two test leads together, you should get a beep. That shows continuity. That is how you test continuity.
Simples
PS
Before you experiment on your house wiring you need to turn off the voltage and use the multimeter on the voltage range to confirm the power is disconnected.
But then you'll need to test for voltage.......
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Imagine the control knob is a clock face with 12 at the top and 6 at the bottom. The setting you need is just before - in thr sense of how the hands of a clock turn - the 6 o'clock position. The symbol with a series of curves getting larger to the right id supposed to indicate sound.
Let us know when you've found it.
Thanks, I'll come back.
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