to batten or not to batten....

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Thanks for the tips about boarding my garage ceiling...now lets tackle the walls!
One is internal - will be just masonry painting the breeze style blocks
Other one is external(single brick) and often shows white damp /lime or whatever it is ( like powder, but scrape it off, and its back a few days later :evil: ) Now I want to plasterboard over this wall, to help Insulation / heat loss, and of course "hide" this problematic white stuff. The wall has a couple of copper pipes running up it, and electric trunking to main consumer unit, also "rear" of elec and gas meter boxes stick out a couple of inches. I dont want to lose any more width in the garage than absoluely necessary, but would like to hide the pipes/trunking etc.
The pipes and stuff protrude about 50mm from wall, so 2x1 battens (fixed edge on)would just about do it...but how do I fix em to the brickwork - would a good adhesive ( no more nails type stuff) be good, or what??
Also is there a special board ( thermal plasterboard) that I should use, and should I apply plastic membrane or similar to battens before affixing boarding to prevent this white stuff bleeding through?
Is there an alternative way to do the job quicker / cheaper / simpler. TYIA
 
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come on guys...you were so good about the ceiling job - surely someone has some help for me on this one?? Pretty please :D :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
 
eunos800 said:
Thanks for the tips about boarding my garage ceiling...now lets tackle the walls!
One is internal - will be just masonry painting the breeze style blocks
Other one is external(single brick) and often shows white damp /lime or whatever it is ( like powder, but scrape it off, and its back a few days later :evil: ) Now I want to plasterboard over this wall, to help Insulation / heat loss, and of course "hide" this problematic white stuff. The wall has a couple of copper pipes running up it, and electric trunking to main consumer unit, also "rear" of elec and gas meter boxes stick out a couple of inches. I dont want to lose any more width in the garage than absoluely necessary, but would like to hide the pipes/trunking etc.
The pipes and stuff protrude about 50mm from wall, so 2x1 battens (fixed edge on)would just about do it...but how do I fix em to the brickwork - would a good adhesive ( no more nails type stuff) be good, or what??
Also is there a special board ( thermal plasterboard) that I should use, and should I apply plastic membrane or similar to battens before affixing boarding to prevent this white stuff bleeding through?
Is there an alternative way to do the job quicker / cheaper / simpler. TYIA

screws and plugs to fix your battons, dpm up the back of the batton will stop the battons getting wet. theirs loads of insulation boards look here http://www.lafargeplasterboard.co.uk/products/concepts/thermal1.htm#
 
Why not treat yourself to some 2x2 battens? I would not recommend trying to screw 2x1 battens edge on. Do yourself a favour!
 
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Thanks guys...useful tips.
I have actually decided to use 3 x 2 as these will not only provide greater surface to affix to wall, but also better "ledge area" for where the panels butt up at joints :)
Any easier method than drill and plug for affixing these timbers??
 
a nail gun is easier, fixing battons to the floor and ceiling might mean less drilling and then fix the studs to these with nails.
 
The wall with the eflorescence - this is left behind when the water carrying it evaporates. If you cover the wall, what will happen to the damp?
 
I guess this is a retorical question - and I am unqualified to answer. If there is a better solution to my problem ( taking all aspects into consideration - IE it's "only a garage/workshop" - costs - etc ) then I would be genuinely grateful for ideas. If this is being caused by water evaporating, then where is the water coming from....I was told by a builder that it is "quite common" with these bricks ( fairly ordinary looking rustic reddy type house brick). If water is being absorbed through the brick from outside, then perhaps a coat of suitable sealer / stabiliser may help? The way I plan to "hide" this wall will result in a 2" gap between the plasterboard and brick at the top of the "panelling", so there will remain some ventilation anyway.......
Incidentally, the efluorescence or whatever, is fairly slight, but unsightly.
 

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