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Trillions of dollars wiped from stock markets..

Where can you do this please ?

Sounds like it’s worth a punt
I would suggest you approach a financial adviser, Landsdown Hargreaves were pretty good, I will point out that of the four bonds we purchased 1 lost 6% of its value over 3 years but regained to parity after the full term, the rest did ok giving around 5.8% return, we could have done much better by investing in with profits policies but to be fair we would too scared. I would also suggest that you really do some research, bonds are made up of individual policy's, the media one was really good because at the time there was an big tax break from the government for film investment in the UK, the media bond was invested in mostly the skydance capital market, ie it was used to finance films that skydance was financing. The capital came from a previous bond, which we had not drawn down profits on and would have pushed us over the 45% threshold, which would have erased any gains.

The trouble with bonds is that unless you want to pay some pretty steep management fee's its not just a case of chucking in money and sitting back and watching the cash pour in. You need to mange it.

A good place to start is life bonds, prudential are pretty good at these, these are bonds wrapped up in a life insurance policy that pays out the bond on your death but you can draw down profits at the rate of 5% per year tax free as long as that does not push you into the 45% income tax bracket where a charge event would happen, ie you have to pay the extra tax liability. But if you want to say protect your cash assets from say being assessed for care home fee's they are ideal as life insurance is exempt from care home fee calculation.
 
People on here like Justin Passing and gas112 that are encouraging people to put money on as a punt using the good old "if you put £10k on tesla you would've made an easy £2k" are setting up people to lose a ton of money.
No I'm not saying that. Again, you reveal that you haven't a clue. It seems you can't even read. It's another stupid attempt at a straw man.
You've been in trouble before for misquoting people, have you not?

Where can you do this please ?

Sounds like it’s worth a punt
Having a punt is usually the worst idea. everyone ese in the market ill have more knowledge and experience than you, and to a greater or lesser extent, it's competitive, so you're gonna lose unless you're very careful. If there;s a tsunami then sure, yo can go with the momentum, butthe assic mstake would be to turn your back for a second, then you get swept out to sea again. YOu will never time it dead right, but you don't need to. Ie, don't be greedy!
I could illustrate with one of those sawtooth patterns. SOmeone who does it every day will get 95% of the swing. I might get 65%. But when I started I would see the wave coming but get in too late, catch a horrible Spread, stay in too long, get another horrible spread and come out wondering how the hell I lost money on a rising price. That's what many DIY dabblers do.

Probably, Monday WILL see another dump, so I'll be as ready as I can be. Quite likely it'll do something like drop 20%, then come back during the day, then another sell off near the close. Or a rally - day traders will be prepared for either/any combination. Day traders afe often working on timescales of a minute or less. AUto traders are working on timescales of sub-millisecond.

If you don't have a trading account, forget it, because it'll probably take you too long to operate the thing.
Then you have to get your head adjusted to it not being hard-earned money, but just numbers. There's no place for emotion.
Then you have to have the confidence that you can assess what's going on reliably ENOUGH that you can take a trade.

If you get some of those ducks ar in a row, then there are several " instruments" you can use.
Some are 2,3,5,10,20 times "leveraged" which magnifies the move, but there are always costs in there.
SO in maths terms, you're working on the first derivative of the price. Some instruments (options etc) effectively can give you a second derivative, which is hairy. You can lose massively, far more than you "bet", with those. THink of it as being a way to bet a tenner and losing your house, or winning the street. I don't go there.

IN terms of what the stock is, it could be the Nadsaq market, the S&P 500, one indidual company or some intermediate.

Gold is bit special, as is bitcoin.
Gold may move 1, 2 %. The Miners may move a multiple of that . Then there are leveraged versions of Gold Miners short and long.
Here's 3GDX, a 3x leveraged gold mine fund. Invest in Gold, yay. Lose a third in a couple of days. Clicky.
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I thought gold would go up. I was lucky to be there and not catch much any significant drop. Being ready, makes you "lucky..."

ON monday. I shall probably be clearing out some bits - not much left, then waiting for any move I can catch. Most money will have been made/lost in the first milliseconds off the open. And no you can't get in before oit happens. Essentially anyone who isn't a market maker is there to collect breadcrumbs, though they can be as much as the loaf.
Notchy said aboutt the Tesla gain -"Oh but that's in hindsight". NO lad, I've been taking some of these. You can use Alerts on your phone.
Just because you can't do it, don't try to take the p out of those who do - it's not a good look.
 
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lots to unopack here - and I'm not an IFA., but:
I would suggest you approach a financial adviser, Landsdown Hargreaves were pretty good,
Be Careful to distinguish between HL's advisers (paid for) and them simply as a fund holder.
As a fund holder, they're very good quality and easy to use, but their fees are 0.45% compared with say AJ Bell's at 0.25%. Interactive Investor is a flat fee structure but not best for under 100k , the tipping point is something around 130k, iirc. If you have 1m then Fidelity is cheaper.
In recent times, returns have been such that those percentages were insignificant, but it's not so when rates are lower.
There are other platforms . I use too many, it's hard to keep track.
It depends whether you want to use
--Shares, Trading 212: cheap mostly and easy but lacking necessary features, eToro - a dog of a platform but does have features, but expensive hidden costs
--ETFs ( bundles of shares in one sector or index) See Invest Engine, ALB, ii, HL
--OEICS (managed funds) (AJB, ii, FIdelity HL)
--Investment trusts (not worth it imo) (some)
or
-- an invest and forget approach (wealthify).
And if you want to be as sohisticated as possible(IG,IBKR) or not (Wealthify)
HL make it easy for you, fine for managed funds - but expensive for ETFs and Shares
then AJBell which has a much better screener and wider range of OEICs (managed funds) and ETFs.. Fair rates, a good website, reasonably quick trading of funds

You will need good screeners - you can use AJBs even if not invested with them
I will point out that of the four bonds we purchased 1 lost 6% of its value over 3 years but regained to parity after the full term,
Wrong Bond, then. You should have Managed it with a few Managed Funds and a changed few times a year. Perhaps.
the rest did ok giving around 5.8% return, we could have done much better by investing in with profits policies but to be fair we would too scared.
These are Life Insurance products, right? I don't have beneficiaries so not for me. Adjusting between the different types and keeping on top of it would be best if you can, but you may not be sufficiently in touch with the market...

would have pushed us over the 45% threshold
ISAs and Pensions are free of that which you will know, as are their divis. There are other routes I'll leave out...
The trouble with bonds is that unless you want to pay some pretty steep management fee's its not just a case of chucking in money and sitting back and watching the cash pour in. You need to mange it.
Not many are over about 1% though individual funds can be outrageous. HMG reduced the maxima, but some platforms and pension holders charge to the max on everything. If anyone has money in an old-fashioned pension fund, look at moving it It could win a couple or four percent a year for the same fund risk.
A good place to start is life bonds, prudential are pretty good at these, these are bonds wrapped up in a life insurance policy that pays out the bond on your death but you can draw down profits at the rate of 5% per year tax free as long as that does not push you into the 45% income tax bracket where a charge event would happen, ie you have to pay the extra tax liability.
Again, not my thing. But I'd want it to be flexible wrt to changiong occasionally.
 
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