Was I naughty? (I think so. What's the best solution to make it right?)

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Hi,

I've just installed some lovely under-the-stairs cupboards with nicely scribed trims and plinth etc. Really happy with my general carpentry effort. However, foolishly, I was focusing on the woodwork and think I may have gone for an electrical solution that was convenient rather than correct & permanent.

The wall that i've covered had two double sockets at knee height. Aware that they needed to remain accessible, I used deep 50mm(!) plastic surface mounted pattress boxes to bring the face plates forward into the cupboards. I cut appropriate holes in the back panel of the furniture and the pattress box protrude about 20mm inside the furniture. The MDF of the furniture makes contact only with the plastic of the pattress box.

Of course, there was insufficient cable inside the backboxes to reach the new location of the faceplates. I had some spare 2.5mm T&E cable and so I cut about 4" length and covered the distance to the new faceplates by wiring the new 4" cable into the ring with 15A connector block. So, behind each faceplate I now have, a 2.5mm T&E into 3x 15A connector blocks. Into the 3x connector blocks on the other sides I have the 2 lives, 2 neutrals and 2 earths from the ring which had original connected directly to the outlet faceplates.

I believe both sockets are part of a 30A ring, MCB protected at the consumer unit. This part of the house is old style Red & Black.

a) Are 15A connector blocks acceptable here? (yesturday I thought yes, but after doing my homework it now seems to be mixed views depending where you look).

b) Should I have used connector blocks at all? (Please assume that running new wiring to the consumer unit is not an option). Would WAGO's be better, or soldered connections (note: solid core cable), or a junction box small enough to fit behind the pattress?

c) What's the best way to make this right. Preferably of course not removing my entire install would be nice. Of course these are technically still accessible, as was the whole point, but there isn't a huge amount of room inside the cupboard.


Massive thanks in advance, it kept me up all night....wish I'd asked before I did the rest of the job!
 
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a) Are 15A connector blocks acceptable here?
Connector blocks are acceptable.

Technically 15A is too low; you should have used 20A ones minimum.

However, if you have terminated all the wires together so that they are touching and no actual current has to flow through the connector, then it doesn't really matter.
 
The cables on a ring circuit are required to be rated at 20A. I don't know if BS7671 says anything specifically about connectors on ring circuits but it would make sense to assume they should be rated at least the same as the cables.

Having said that if the wires are in direct contact with each other, the "current rating" of the terminal block is pretty meaningless.
 
To be honest, you'll probably get a better connection with 15amp blocks instead of 30amp, because the holes in most 30amp blocks are so large there is unused space, where the wires can slip and miss the screw.

Do you think you terminated your wires nicely, neatly and securely?
 
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Hi,

Thanks very much to all three of you for the helpfull replies.

Yes I'm confident they are fixed mechanically well. The 2x conductors from the ring are steoght in, side by side. On the 1x conductor side (to the faceplate) I 'hooked' the end around so the scree would get a good grip.

Still, I don't think I can sleep at night knowing the blocks are under rated, even if they're likely fine, so I've ordered some 20A ones and at the same time also some 221 Wagos (which I've never tried before) on eBay to take my pick from once I've got them both in my hand.

Cheers again, Tom.
 
Glad you doubled over the 'single' wire.

If you do decide to the change the blocks (and I don't think there's any desperate need) you should consider re-stripping the cable ends, as they are likely to be squashed where screws have bitten into the cable, and may break when re-terminating. Also, check the socket terminals are tight before finishing off, as you may disturb the current connections doing this work.

Others things to consider are filing the cable entry on the pattresses nice and smooth so the single core wires don't get damaged.
 
... and put all three in for the whole length of the connector so they are all held by both screws.


Still, I don't think I can sleep at night knowing the blocks are under rated, even if they're likely fine,
You might notice that they are considerably thicker than 100A fuse wire.
 
Also was the original box a patress box or is there a metal box still in the wall? if the metal box is still in the wall and still has single insulated cables inside it should probablly be earthed.
 
Also was the original box a patress box or is there a metal box still in the wall? if the metal box is still in the wall and still has single insulated cables inside it should probablly be earthed.

Good point.
 
... and put all three in for the whole length of the connector so they are all held by both screws.
This is what I would do. All three conductors entering the block from the same side then screw down the screws on each side of the block.
 

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